legacycentral bbs

I'm not sure if this is where this post should go but here it is:

so i finally got my car put back together and it wont start

here is what i know

-the car sat for six month

-i have spark

-i have fuel ( pulled spark plug it was wet with fuel)

-everything is plugged in as far as i can tell (except the o2 sensor)

-it turns over but nothing happens

-if i spray starting fluid into the intake manifold nothing happens

-blew a fusible link when i first put it back together. new one
installed

im thinking for some reason i messed up the timing here of pics to make sure


if you have any ideas please let me know, i have no idea what to do next.
im about to tow it to the shop down the street and say fix it lol

Can you take a better/bigger picture of the crank sprocket? I think it might be off by a quarter of a turn. There are two markings on the crank sprocket: the arrow (which you used to align) and a line.

ah your a genius IT WORKS!!!


what are the other marks for anyway?

Haha awesome!

To be honest, I have absolutely NO idea. Lol.

Hero of the day right there.

Been there, done that... to my grandfather's wagon.

Yes, do not use the arrow on the front of the sprocket. Use the mark on the sensor tooth on the back of the sprocket.

Not only should it not have started, but the engine probably kicked back counter-clockwise a tad when you let off the starter from the lack of cooperation between the compression and the valve springs.

My understanding (take it for what it's worth) is that when the arrow is pointing one direction horizontally, that the pistons on the other side are far enough back in the engine that the valves can't hit them.

Why they put this on a non-interference engine, I'll never know. But that's the best story I've yet heard.

thanks to your help the car now runs and drives, but i have run into a new problem.

when i drive about 2 blocks it starts to overheat, if i pull over then it starts to cool down. rinse, repeat, as many times as you like.

this was happening before the car went down and if i removed the thermostat it would be fine. i could drove it as far as i wanted.

just put new cometic head gaskets on so im pretty sure its not that

im not sure if it would make a difference but i have a non-turbo radiator on it that i got from u-pull-it

Get an OEM thermostat for starters, then repost with findings.

i have a oem thermostat that i have checked that works.

this is the third thermostat i have tried

If the car is turbo, it might overheat with a nonturbo radiator.

Running without a thermostat won't solve the problem. In fact, I would expect that once it finally reaches operating temperature, that it slowly starts overheating.

trust me it solves the problem i drove around for a month with no thermostat

i bought a brand new radiator today well see if that does anything

DerFahrer wrote:If the car is turbo, it might overheat with a nonturbo radiator.

Just wanted to put in my .02 that my non-turbo radiator has no issues cooling my EJ22T (swapped), even during this summer's 100+ heatwave, running 17psi.

There's a way to plumb it so the non-turbo works w/the turbo's cooling system.... It's on here somewhere, and I followed that.

So, could be your radiator, but not because it's a non-turbo (unless I"m really lucky and based on how many times Murphy has shown up during my swap, I doubt it!)

Yes, non-turbo radiator works fine. You just need to make sure you remove the smaller gasket on the radiator cap, and plumb the overfill from that to the coolant expansion tank.

i put in my brand new turbo radiator and everything works perfect

the radiator i had must have been bad

your havin lots of good luck my man.

first thing in that pic of your crank sensor i noticed was the arrow.lol.

make sure you burp the system or youll overheat again. i do it by squuezing the upper rad hose until bubbles pop up and keep filling as nesessary