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can someone identify the black plug for me?

i pulled my stereo out to replace it and found the black connector in the picture just chillin with no partner in sight.

you have your car fs on craigslist>?

yeah but i just took it down, i decided to keep it.

that's the connector for the ashtray light i believe

Pretty sure the ashtray light plug is a lot smaller.Looks me like the plug that goes to the steering column a bit over to the left in the pic.Im pretty sure its the plug that will make the door/key chime shut up if unplugged,but also turns something else of,cant remember.Is your door chime working?

nope its not working i didn't realize i had a door chime cool

I have the same thing, but it's white, no other plug in sight or in range... My chime works, nothing else is inop. Don't worry about it, probably for the optional CD player or something.

huh well i guess i wont worry about it then

thanks for your help

Now I'm curious about it... does it have 12V on it, switched or not? Might be a convenient source to tap for accesories such as heated seats, cb radio, etc. etc...

it has switched 12v that only works when the lights are on and the car is running

hmm, yeah i think that's the ashtray light. could still be wrong tho

its the wire used for the Ash tray dimmer lite, AllData shows it.

Sweet! good to know

For the lights to work it requires at-least 12V power supply, but still it requires continuous power supplies so you need to keep the car on.

If it is the ashtray light plug, then it will energize when the lights(parking or headlights) are on, with the key on. I used this plug way back when to power the light on my first boost gauge, if I remember right it will dim with the dimmer switch along with the rest of the cluster lights.
It is very conveniant for gauges, being that it has the ground and 12 volt source right there.

When I used this I was very inexperienced and decided to use UNINSULATED female spade connectors and they slide right onto the pins and hooked right to my gauge and worked great. The gauge light lit up whenever the lights where on and worked just like the factory instrument lights. However, one day I took my gauge out to do something and left the wires dangling. I turned my ignition on and I guess the lights where already in the on position, I saw a spark and the the two wires where touching. I lost all my instrument lights, so I figured well I just blew a fuse, no such luck. It fried my illumination control module, cost like $90 +1hr for the dealeer to diagnose it, right under $200 out the door.

Moral of the story, If you use this as a source for something make sure to use INSULATED connectors. This was one of those, learn it the hard way, experiances for me, since then I use insulation on every electrical connection I make. I know most people are smart enough to use insulated cannectors, but I was a newb and didn't have a clue to the differences.

Just figured I throw this out there, take from it what you will. I could have bought a ton of insulated connecters for $200, LOL.

Brian

Thanks I'm hitting up the junkyard right now for another illumination control module.

brweber352 wrote:If it is the ashtray light plug, then it will energize when the lights(parking or headlights) are on, with the key on. I used this plug way back when to power the light on my first boost gauge, if I remember right it will dim with the dimmer switch along with the rest of the cluster lights.
It is very conveniant for gauges, being that it has the ground and 12 volt source right there.

When I used this I was very inexperienced and decided to use UNINSULATED female spade connectors and they slide right onto the pins and hooked right to my gauge and worked great. The gauge light lit up whenever the lights where on and worked just like the factory instrument lights. However, one day I took my gauge out to do something and left the wires dangling. I turned my ignition on and I guess the lights where already in the on position, I saw a spark and the the two wires where touching. I lost all my instrument lights, so I figured well I just blew a fuse, no such luck. It fried my illumination control module, cost like $90 +1hr for the dealeer to diagnose it, right under $200 out the door.

Moral of the story, If you use this as a source for something make sure to use INSULATED connectors. This was one of those, learn it the hard way, experiances for me, since then I use insulation on every electrical connection I make. I know most people are smart enough to use insulated cannectors, but I was a newb and didn't have a clue to the differences.

Just figured I throw this out there, take from it what you will. I could have bought a ton of insulated connecters for $200, LOL.

Brian

i think this is exactly what happened to my instrument lights. What two wires are you speaking of when you say they touched with the lights in the "on" position? I think I accidentally had my lights in the "on" position when I turned my ignition on when testing the instrument light bulbs.