legacycentral bbs

Many Legacy Turbo owners have experienced problems with the clutch linkage. It has a crazy assed over-center spring that makes it so that a spring in the linkage helps the weakling driver depress the clutch at its deepest depths. What you are experiencing is this idiotic mechanism in conjunction with a returm compression spring that rolls over instead of stayiny upright. I bought the Subaru Parts DEpt alleged fix for this problem, but after looking at the whole mess I decided that it would not be worth installling. A coil spring must be depressed in a fairly linear fashion, while the pedal mechanism depresses in in a sideways scuffing motion. The spring just flops over and the other spring that "helps" you depress the clutch also works against you.

Your first course of action is to adjust the clutch for minimum freeplay. Stand on your headand look up above the throttle pedal. You will see the adjustment area of the clutch linkage. Pull the clevis pin clip (bobby pin) with a pair of needle nosed pliers or hemostats. Push out the clevis pin. At this point, depress the clutch pedal wit your hand and you will see that there is a point at which the spring stops pushing back at your hand and actually janks the clutch pedal to the floor. That mechanism is the enemy of fast clutch action. Pull the pedal back up to the top. Use a 12mm wrench to loosen the jamb nut and rotate the clevis pin yoke which is threaded to a threaded shaft on the linkage. Monkey with it until you can just barely fit the clevis pin back in. The clevis pin should rattle freely, but you should have no more freeplay than that. Rmember that zero freeplay means that your clutch is riding on the throwout bearing all the time and it will fail prematurely.
Tighten the jamb nut and put the pin clip back in place.
Grease the little coil spring to lessen the degree to which it scuffs and rolls over instead of just compressing.

What you just did is to lessen the degree to which your clutch linkage enters the zone of thhe assenine over-center "helper" spring. That might just work.

If that doesn't work, buy a set of four miniature braided bungee cords. Put a small worm drive hosr clamp around the clutch pedal shaft, to serve as an anchor point for the bungee cords. stretch as few or as many bungee cords as you like from the anchor point up to whatever anchor points on the steering column that you like. Adjust the number and tautness of the bungee cords until you like the feel of your clutch.

I know it sounds tacky, but I did this two years ago and it solved a problem that had plagued me for a very long time.


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Thanks.. i will try to adjust the freeplay of the clutch as u have
suggested..

but the other way of using bungee cords.. would that make the clutch
much stiffer? the legacy clutch is already quite heavy stock.. in
stop and go traffic its kinda tiring...

also.. the Subaru fix for this problem.. do u have the part# for that
kit? maybe i should ask my local subaru dealer about it and check it
out..

--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "William D. Robinson" <vultureboy@m...>
wrote:
> Many Legacy Turbo owners have experienced problems with the clutch
linkage. It has a crazy assed over-center spring that makes it so
that a spring in the linkage helps the weakling driver depress the
clutch at its deepest depths. What you are experiencing is this
idiotic mechanism in conjunction with a returm compression spring
that rolls over instead of stayiny upright. I bought the Subaru
Parts DEpt alleged fix for this problem, but after looking at the
whole mess I decided that it would not be worth installling. A coil
spring must be depressed in a fairly linear fashion, while the pedal
mechanism depresses in in a sideways scuffing motion. The spring
just flops over and the other spring that "helps" you depress the
clutch also works against you.
>
> Your first course of action is to adjust the clutch for minimum
freeplay. Stand on your headand look up above the throttle pedal.
You will see the adjustment area of the clutch linkage. Pull the
clevis pin clip (bobby pin) with a pair of needle nosed pliers or
hemostats. Push out the clevis pin. At this point, depress the
clutch pedal wit your hand and you will see that there is a point at
which the spring stops pushing back at your hand and actually janks
the clutch pedal to the floor. That mechanism is the enemy of fast
clutch action. Pull the pedal back up to the top. Use a 12mm
wrench to loosen the jamb nut and rotate the clevis pin yoke which is
threaded to a threaded shaft on the linkage. Monkey with it until
you can just barely fit the clevis pin back in. The clevis pin
should rattle freely, but you should have no more freeplay than
that. Rmember that zero freeplay means that your clutch is riding on
the throwout bearing all the time and it will fail prematurely.
> Tighten the jamb nut and put the pin clip back in place.
> Grease the little coil spring to lessen the degree to which it
scuffs and rolls over instead of just compressing.
>
> What you just did is to lessen the degree to which your clutch
linkage enters the zone of thhe assenine over-center "helper"
spring. That might just work.
>
> If that doesn't work, buy a set of four miniature braided bungee
cords. Put a small worm drive hosr clamp around the clutch pedal
shaft, to serve as an anchor point for the bungee cords. stretch as
few or as many bungee cords as you like from the anchor point up to
whatever anchor points on the steering column that you like. Adjust
the number and tautness of the bungee cords until you like the feel
of your clutch.
>
> I know it sounds tacky, but I did this two years ago and it solved
a problem that had plagued me for a very long time.


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