legacycentral bbs

Just what the title says. I thought it had somerthing to do with the cars state of tune so I took her in and got work done, but it still does it.

Runs perfect when cold.

Once she reaches Running temp she begins to cut out under throttle about 5000rpm. No back fires and its not rythmic like a miss.

Need help!

Can you give us any additional information as to when this started, what mods you have, and can you describe the cutting out a little more. Does it lose power all of sudden, can you keep it going by giving it more throttle?

The things I'd check are the MAF sensor, and ignition components.

at "cruise" (constant speed, on the freeway whatever) It "misses" like... once every 5-10 seconds. at an idol it will do the same and progressively get worse until it almost doesnt run. but if I hammer the throttle down once the turbo comes up she goes great guns till about 5000 rpms.... then it starts cutting out... like its hitting a rev limiter or something.

latest mods inc walboro 255, STI Injectors. Autotronic MAF, Perfect Power 6 piggy back, Zeitronix zt2 wideband sensor, new coilpack.

it started with cutting out at full trottle after I installed the injectors, MAF, and Walboro. Without the wideband I wasnt able to get the car tuned so I thought it was just a tune issue.

More lately its been stuttering at cruise and idle. Primarily at night, most noticably if its raining.

Took it to a shop and had the wideband installed, a dyno tune done (im hearing 170hp at the wheels) , about the 4th or 5th run it started cutting out again. we replaced the coilpack with no effect and are currently waiting on a WRX MAF sensor.

I'm not familiar w/the Autronic MAF - Does the PP6 control it?

A WRX MAF fixed (one of) my issues, so that may be the ticket.

GL,
Td

At night (no light), take a spray bottle filled with water and spray a fine mist of water around the ignition components and see if you can see any sparks arching.

Legacy777 wrote:At night (no light), take a spray bottle filled with water and spray a fine mist of water around the ignition components and see if you can see any sparks arching.

Hmm, learn something new every day

another $1500 tossed to the wolves. Wideband installed and engine loosely "tuned"

Car runs but still has the random "miss" at cruise. Engine Light comes on as soon as the engine hits opperating temp. She is down on power. most notably while on boost.

They replaced the MAF sensor. Unfortunately instead of the WRX sensor we discussed they ordered a OEM sensor from Atlanta for the low low price of $399. They replaced my Hallman Manual boost controller with one from Turbosmart as my Hallman was "Leaking boost". Swapped out the Coil pack to see if that was the issue. solved nothing so they put the old pack back in and shipped the new one back. Dialed boost back from 12lbs to 10lbs. Sealed several "leaks" in the induction system.

Turbo is definitely quieter, but the surge that came with the whoosh of the turbo is almost entirely gone. The new gauge works but I have no idea what im looking at so the information is useless. It shows "lambda" Throttle position, and AFR. I Spritzed the ignition components but saw no sparks and heard no change in the engines rhythm. Ill pull codes tomorrow. REALLY getting frustrated.

What codes end up coming up?

alrighty. Codes are 14,15,16,17,24,32,49

so if im reading this right. all four injectors, air control valve, o2 sensor (knew this one), and improper air flow sensor...

So... start with the injectors I guess.

Could someone walk me through the proper way to reset the codes? I read the article in the library but it just confused me and I dont want to unplug the battery for fear of resetting the engine management.

Figured out how to clear the codes this morning.

Now getting 32 (o2 sensor), which I have to say im surprised at, and 51 ( Neutral switch? WTF?)

So gonna stand off buying new injectors for the moment... o2 sensor failier? 1) ITS A BRAND NEW o2 SENSOR! a 2) My wideband is showing AFRs... so my guess is the guys that installed the wideband either botched the lowband simulator or didnt connect it.... but that wouldnt cause the engine stumble would it?

What wideband are you using? I wouldn't worry about the neutral switch right now. I'd focus on the wide band controller and the narrow band simulator. Make sure it's wired up properly, and check whether the software is configured properly.

wideband is a Zietronikz ZT-2

I've used the ZT-2's narrow band simulator before and know it works. What I don't recall is if you have to go into the software to configure it before it starts to work. So maybe you need to do that if you haven't already done that.

getting repeated 32 and 51 codes. car barely ran this morning. Noticed that code 51 doubled as neutral switch AND inhibitor switch... out of curiosity the inhibitor switch the same as the fuel cut defender? I always thought they fucked up my Fuel cut defender install.

The inhibitor switch is the switching mechanism on the automatic transmission. It's what controls the transmission changing gears, etc.

It's possible that if the ECU doesn't think the trans is in gear, it may not be idling up (increasing IAC valve duty %) to compensate for the increased load that is generated when going from park or neutral to being in gear.

on the way to the bank today she started cutting out. anything passed.. maybe 1/2 " into the throttle the engine just dropped dead. engine was dead cold. just a few blocks from my house.

Noticed a new code. 35. Canister purge valve? What the hell is that?

Had a minor economic crisis at home so cant afford another trip to the shop. this is starting to get depressing.

The canister purge valve is related to emissions. It should not be causing the problems you are having.

I'm wondering if your TPS is bad. Have you tested it?

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... sting1.jpg
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... sting2.jpg
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... sting3.jpg

haven't tested it but it is hooked up to the ZT-2 wideband and shows on the display. .. I haven't payed to much attention to it but it seemed to be accurate... which is not to say there isn't something wrong with it.

Ill test it anyways. it'll give me something to do.

Here is something new. Went to the corner store. On the way back engine starts stuttering. Im sitting at an idle on at a stoplight and I notice the Needle on the tach jumping occasionally at the moment the engine stutters. some times it jumps up like there was an addtional fire. some times it dips like a miss. Either way points to an ignition problem.

Ive tested the TPS a couple times. a bit disheartened by the fact I cant get any of the tests to work. I get NO resistance between posts 2 & 3 on the sensor itself and 5.1 volts from socket #2 on the harness instead of 4.6. while I cant shake the feeling im doing something wrong. Im also pretty sure this think is kaput.

$302 for a OEM one. to close to christmas and to skinny a year for that. any options here? Can I use one from an junkyarded N/A?

You can find TPS's used for cheap. I've got some laying around from various throttle bodies if you can't find one.