legacycentral bbs

Ok, so I have a 1990 awd Auto legacy LS 167km (I was the first to change the air filter)...had a few problems with it so far. But I will state my latest most prominent problem;
Car is overheating when driving or revving, coolant has spilled over and filled up resevoir, no heat inside car.
I did notice a small coolant leak before the over heating issue, I poured some coolant leak stopper into the rad. Coolant is now a dark mucky green colour, rad cap has brownish gunk built up around it.

Either it's the;

A) Head gasket
B) water pump
C) thermostat
D) Leak somewhere in rad or hoses
E) bad coolant

Can someone help me out on how to eliminate some of these problems...oh and also a diagram or instructions on how to flush out the rad....I really don't want to sell her or part her out.

Thanks!!

Welcome to the BBS.

The first thing I'd suggest is flushing all the old coolant out that has the stop leak. That stuff can plug up radiators and cause you more issues. The thermostat is at the bottom of the engine and you can remove the housing and it will drain the coolant out of the engine & radiator.

I'd suggest checking the thermostat to make sure it's not stuck closed. It'd probably be a good idea to replace it. Also, non-subaru thermostats can give you problems as well. When you fill the cooling system back up, there is a bleeder screw on the passenger side of the radiator that must be opened to get all the air out of the system. I usually remove that screw, fill it, and then start the engine, let it run a little bit until coolant starts coming out of the bleeder screw and then I put the plug back in. Then I'll top off the coolant at the radiator filler neck and put the cap on. Make sure you've got fluid in the overflow tank so the system can pull it back in if needed.

Assuming everything is ok, the above procedure should eliminate an air pocket. If you have a leak somewhere, the system won't pressure up and could be causing the problem. Usually if it's a small leak, you'll just lose coolant and will create a problem over time.

I'd start with that. If it's a head gasket, your problem will likely still be there, but it's good to rule out the other things first.

I will try that when we get some dry weather and I'll let you know if it worked

Thanks

One more question...would you reccomend using an antifreeze cleaner flush type product to make sure it's completly clean?

Changed it...Still the same problem, I'm thinking it has to be HG now

usually brown looking coolant means oil is leaking out.

90legacyls wrote:Changed it...Still the same problem, I'm thinking it has to be HG now

If it's an 'internal' HG leak you'll have bubbles (and black stuff) in the coolant overflow tank....you probably have the stop leak crap in there now, too.

How did you change the coolant? Did your replace the T-stat as suggested by Mr. JC?

Is the heater still not working? That's usually due to NOT burping the coolant system....Search on here and on the USMB site.

GL,
Td

I changed the coolant by opening up the bleeder screw, rad cap then un bolting the thermostat housing.
drained all the coolant, removed top hose from the rad, flushed water into there until it came out clean. (also removed overflow tank and washed out thoroughly)
Then I replaced thermostat, added coolant with bleeder screw off until it got pretty full, filled up overflow 3/4 way.
Capped everything back on except bleeder screw...ran car until coolant bubbled through screw, turned off car, added more coolant and put screw on. Ran it for a bit..took it for a 5 minutes drive until it started to overheat.
Still no heat...
Do you think it might be the water pump?

I've come to the conclusion it is the HG; bubbles in over flow tank when starting to overheat and milky white substance on oil cap.

It's a shame as the car only has 167,000 KMS on it!!!

Also...oil looked fine on dipstick? I'm puzzled

You should have gotten heat after adding coolant and properly bleeding the system unless there's a blockage. Could be the Stop Leak. Sounds like a head gasket and if it's to the point where you actually see the bubbles and signs on the oil cap, then it's pretty bad as these engines usually don't display such overt signs until late.

Okay, I also have a 22 and 33 Knock sensor and speed sensor....but these would have nothing to do with my problem? or...would they?

....I wish I had an R2D2 unit in my car.