legacycentral bbs

so i have began the quest for more power in my mica red 94 22t TW.

i got my fivespeed, diff, clutch parts, and driveline, so itll be more fun.

i decided against doing a dohc swap or a wrx swap, too much work for a car im giving to my lady when im done saving for my 2.5rs and SS leggy play car. i bought this one because it was clean, and we need a wagon for daily shit. (really handy vehicle)
the engine is in great shape, no leaks no overheating, it has 120k original and im the second owner!
i pretty much just want a lil more power, i dont expect crazy gains, but this is my list so far:

arp headstuds
oem headgaskets
water pump
oil pump
timing belt, etc
up pipe,
down pipe
3in back
td04 wrx turbo
gc8 FMIC
440 wrx injectors/na rails
MBC
aftermarket MAF
some sort of tune

thats about the extent of my research for a bolt on 22t. i decided to not do a full rebuild due to the low miles, am i right in thinking i can just reuse the heads without resurfacing them? if i remove them with the reverse tq pattern will they not warp? will i be ok just throwing new gaskets and ARP studs on them?

i dont expect nothing crazy from this setup, but what do you guys think it could put down pwer wise?

also, any suggestions to my mod list would be much appreciated!

Its always a good idea to resurface heads before re-installation.
I don't think the head studs are necessary if you're not pushing big power.
If you change injector size and MAF, you will need tune-ability to make them work. Do you have an aftermarket MAF in mind? I haven't seen one available.
The stock up pipe is sufficient, it is catless. A bellmouth 3" downpipe is a good upgrade.

ive always thought that you should resurface heads as well, but id thought id ask. since its a fairly small head design i wondered.

arp headstuds are just a great product and i like to think they are stronger and more reliable than stock headbolts. always used them in all my honda b series builds. i want to run a lil higher boost so its cheap piece of mind.

yeah i wanted a 3'' BM dp

if there are no MAFs availiable, what do people do? i dont want to be anywhere near the fuel cut, and an upgraded MAF sounds more appealing than a FCD.

im still not sure what to do tuning wise, i came from a honda background where 0bd1 was the desired platform for affordable tuning like Hondata, chrome, neptune, etc. then i go subie and theres nothing for obd1 short of a 1000+ standalone. are there affordable tuning solutions for these obd1 subies? man i had s300 hondata for my b series civic and it did alot for around 500 bucks... 2-step, boost by gear, full datalogging, etc.

i pretty much just want to be able to run the 440's, safetly run 1 bar, and get the most from my setup.

Hi,
My .02....leave the engine alone (otherwise stock EJ22T, correct?), other than the maintenance items you've listed. The EJ22T can easily handle your power goals.....if you go bigger - 550's/TD05, then maybe you need to dig into the engine's innards - but many on here don't.

Add your 440s/TD04/IC/DP/JECS MAF (from an NA Legacy) and get the Rob tuned EJ20 ECU. You can run 1+ Bar and put 50+ - @ least - to the wheels....and you won't have to spend $$ on a tuner, like you would w/a piggy-back or stand-alone EM....edit: Fuel cut is 13psi on a stock ECU.

FWIW, I'm running the same setup - w/a TMIC - and made 180/230WheelHP (50 more than stock) @ 16.5psi w/the Revtronix chip, which is no longer avl. new.

TD

you can resurface the heads but if the motor runs fine there is no need. lol and it does not matter how you pull the head bolts off.

I would agree, I wouldn't bother pulling the heads unless you have issues. Tuning is going to be your biggest issue. I would also recommend Robtune's ECU's. They're really the best bang for your buck without a lot of headache & cost. There just isn't shit out there that works well without costing some money and is supported for the OBD1 platform.

^ what he said also