legacycentral bbs

Ok I'm getting the cel to come on after say about 20mins of driving. My car still runs good idles fine. Everything still seems just as it should. But soon as I turn it off it goes off. Like I turn it off to go in as in today to pick up a pizza. And come back out start it up no light. I drive for about 5 mins comes back on, but if I let it sit for a little while. No light then it's back on after 20... I connect the green connector it goes off. Should I be connecting the black connectors instead? Idk how i can pull the code if it goes off if i turn the car off? Unless i can leave it running and pull the codes? I was just thinking maybe a misfire was causing it but idk. It bothers me. I hate seeing lights on the dash. Haha any help would be awesome.
Thanks!

bump

Green connectors are for CELs that are currently being tripped. You can keep these plugged in and drive around until the CEL comes on and then it will flash the codes.

Black connectors are for the memory. I would use this method to pull CELs from the memory, so you don't have to wait around for it to trip again.

Honestly, it sounds like an o2 sensor problem. Had the same thing happen to me on my old wagon. After a little driving it would go on, then if I restarted it it wouldn't be there until I started driving again.

Alright sweet. I have noticed it's not getting the greatest gas mileage but the light only comes on after awhile. But alright I'll try to connect the black connectors and see if I can get anything to come up.

Another thing it could be is the canister purge solenoid. Check the codes with the black connectors and let us know what you find out.

So today I finally checked the codes Ik one can throw off another but the codes were
2-1 coolant temperature sensor
3-2 oxygen sensor
3-5 purge control solenoid.
So where should I start? Or to erase em do I leave the connector plugged in then drive? So that way I'll start over fresh. Even tho I had my battery unhooked for about a month or so. But all help is appriaited.
Thanks.

clear them and start fresh. see what comes back.

well after looking what everything is. i dont have a vapor canister or any thing that would go to it. should i be worried about that? what does the vapor canister do?

It's for emissions, IIRC. Nothing serious.

Do you have those lines plugged that typically go to the charcoal canister?

As it's been mentioned, clear the codes and then check again.

Nope all my lines and everything is gone. Mustve been done by po. Does my car need it? And I'm pretty sure my u2 sensor is going. I can just smell the gas and my mileage is decreasing. Does any wideband controller come with the o2 sensor so I could just buy the wideband and gauge instead of buying a new o2 sensor too?

Subiel94 wrote: Does any wideband controller come with the o2 sensor so I could just buy the wideband and gauge instead of buying a new o2 sensor too?

Most modern ones do; my LC-1 does. But some recommend not backfeeding the simulated narrow O2 sensor setting back to the stock ECU since the curve levels are likely different. Although I haven't seen any definitive proof that this is a valid issue

Personally, I kept my narrow O2 in the stock location and put the LC-1 in the bottom bung on the downpipe.

So wait our cars have 2 o2 sensors??

Subiel94 wrote:So wait our cars have 2 o2 sensors??

No, just one located right in the cat.

If you're going to replace it go to a local parts store and get the 7/8 o2 socket. It has a little notch for the wire which makes it 10x easier to remove.

Ok. So would it not be fools if I just used the o2 sensor from a wideband kit?

So today I cantacted prosportgauges and I asked them if their wideband kit with the o2 sensor if I can hook that o2 sensor up to my ecu bc mine is bad and they said it'd be perfectly fine, I can replace mine with theirs.. Does anyone know if this is true? I gotta save up some money so I figured id ask y'all too. Thanks!

As I previously stated, yes, most wideband sensors have a narrow O2 output. Although be warned that its simulated characteristics will be different than a real narrowband O2 sensor.

I never really seemed to have any issues with my Zeitronix WB that had a simulated NB output to the ECU. But I think the NB output will depend more on the programming.

Oh ok do you guys like the prosport gauges? I see a lot of ppl run em over on nasioc but I've never asked them if they liked it.

And according to prosport they said I'd work just fine. But idk if they are just feeding me crap to sell a product either.

Also will a wideband kit come with everything you'll need to hook it up? I'm sorry for all the noob questions. I'm still very new to all this type of stuff. I've been more about trucks and jeep most of my life.

i cleared the codes same the same codes came back up so about that purge control solenoid should i be worried about it? anyway it could be bypassed? or does my car need it i read it just goes to the charcoal canister that limits the smell of gasoline. but that cant be all that important.