legacycentral bbs

Would it be very hard or is it best to enjoy the 90/10 split and add the 4x4 mod? Or could said 4x4 mod be used to lock the center diff and power the rear wheels alone if one was to pull the transmission and remove all the front diff hardware? In my mind that seems like it would work but I know nothing about transmissions so I'm probably wrong.

On the stock transmission the RWD portion is only through a clutchpack, no differential or direct connection. You would need to fabricated something that provides a direct connection to the output.

thats lame

It is how they are built.

Making an auto RWD only would be tough, since the transfer clutch would need to be welded perfectly straight, which is difficult to do. Not worth the effort anyways. If you want RWD, buy a Mustang or Camaro. A T56 and proper rear diff make life easy.

93forestpearl wrote:It is how they are built.

Making an auto RWD only would be tough, since the transfer clutch would need to be welded perfectly straight, which is difficult to do. Not worth the effort anyways. If you want RWD, buy a Mustang or Camaro. A T56 and proper rear diff make life easy.

i´ve done it, i pulled the center clutch pack, put a shitty weld in there and threw it back in there,
15.000 miles later, 6 rear axles and 2 diffs later, the trans is still holding

I wasn't saying it couldn't be done, but your graveyard of parts says why one should not unless they are going to an 8.8 or something equivalent. This does not include a discussion on why the Legacy rear suspension is not designed for RWD...

maybe not designed for it, but it´s soooooooooooooo fun

oskar_subaru wrote:
i´ve done it, i pulled the center clutch pack, put a shitty weld in there and threw it back in there,
15.000 miles later, 6 rear axles and 2 diffs later, the trans is still holding

Interesting... I was wondering about this very same thing, specifically if it could be done with "shitty" welds or it needed something precise and balanced.

so Oskar as of now has the current setup been holding up? or did you get rid of it?

http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin ... ool-44734/ rwd 4eat

bmxkelowna wrote:http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin ... ool-44734/ rwd 4eat

Okay i'm interested in that...it looked though to be a one off custom from the posts though...unless there's a place that sells them.

in this photo you can see six tack welds, just weld that all around and also those lines on a 45* "/ / / /" going around were teeth that have been machined off looks pretty simple to me!

I've been meaning to try this ^. I don't have a lathe to machine off the teeth though. You can't get in there to do the welding with the teeth in the way! lol I might try grinding the teeth on a bench grinder, once I catch up on other projects.

samurai wrote:so Oskar as of now has the current setup been holding up? or did you get rid of it?

i don´t have that car anymore, but i sold it to a friend and it´s still going strong in rwd now with a ej25

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set= ... fe6251273c

Installing as I type this

Nice!

Just got home from messing around for a couple hours in a rwd auto subaru lol. This car is stock other than a vf24 + '02 wrx tmic, running ~10.5 psi because it fuel cuts any higher than that . I'm amazed at how well this still hooks up! I have completely blown struts and no working e-brake, so initiating a slide is challenging on pavement, though I was hesitant to really push it tonight. Another thing I was surprised at is how much better the car handles on corners! Where the front end would previously push and limit how fast you can take a corner it just begs to be pushed harder. On crappy tires! What I found REALLY fun is gravel/rally type roads. Sliding around corners with WAY more angle, and just as fast! Seems to accelerate from a dead stop just as well as awd (on gravel, straight line) just squirrelly as hell spinning all the way up to 80 lol. The tires are spinning, but propelling you quite well. I still have the stock open 3.90 diff in, but I have a 4.44 diff welded up ready to go in sometime this week when I get the time.

This is interesting for sure, thanks for the report so far.

Well I've had the welded 4.44 diff in for a couple weeks now, and I also cut my factory springs about the same time. Gravel is way too scary now! lol I'm also having a problem with my steering rack, it has "hard spots" where it seems to bind, and it also doesn't return to center on it's own, so that makes things challenging! With the welded diff, it'll get sideways around corners taking off in second, without even trying lol. I picked up a set of D2 Racing coilovers for $240 shipped off ebay. I threw the front ones on a week ago, the back ones need to be rebuilt. One other thing to note, I pulled the front axles out at the same time as the front coilovers, but that has some drawbacks on a RWD 4EAT. I no longer have a speedo, or "Park". Hahaha Both are dependent on parts that are no longer in use inside the transmission.

I should probably start up a build thread This is now going to go in a slightly different direction. I picked up a postal wagon for a couple hundred bucks, so I'm pretty sure my Turbo drivetrain will end up in that This is currently my daily driver tho, So I also picked up a 2nd gen Legacy that needs a motor, and an SVX parts car that is missing the trans. Sounds like the makings of a good daily driver

Binford wrote: I'm also having a problem with my steering rack, it has "hard spots" where it seems to bind, and it also doesn't return to center on it's own, so that makes things challenging!

Spray some penetrating oil (not WD40) on the two U-joints in the coupler between the steering column and the rack, right above the drivers side axle. That's almost always the issue. New couplers are $75 from the dealership.

Without a working speedo the car will be in limp mode meaning less power and lower boost fuel cut I believe.

kimokalihi wrote:Without a working speedo the car will be in limp mode meaning less power and lower boost fuel cut I believe.

I've heard that before, but I didn't notice any difference? My cars are always oddities although hahaha

I sure did. Check engine light was on and the car wouldn't perform as well as it should.

i think the ej20 is a little more sensitive to not having a speed signal then the ej22 ecu, i know on my legacy i didnt have a speedo for the longest time and it wasnt that bad, you could tell it didnt like it but it wasnt a huge loss in power.

It should throw a CEL. I lost my speedo in my ej22 4eat and within a few miles it threw the code, and was in limp model. The fans will run continuously and there's a few other oddities that will occur. Any particular reason why you pulled the drive axles?