legacycentral bbs

Hi my check engine light has not come on in the 5 years I owned my car, It's a stock 94 ss auto now I'm getting a ton of codes and can't clear the ecu I tried all the steps and when I have both black and green connected I'm getting a 22 and a 52 with the black connected i'm getting 14,15,16,17,22,49 but I think they are old codes and not anything that is happening presently. I've been getting really bad gas mileage for the last 6 months like 13 to 18 I used to get mid 20's to 30 otherwise the car is running fine except now the cel is on and I'm not getting full performance. Any help is appreciated

Connect only the green connectors and see what code comes up. You need to follow the procedure on my site to get the codes with the green connectors connected.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

that's a nice website you have, lot of info, I will try that and see what I get. Is it normal for my fan to be turning on and off like that with the green connectors connected.

Yes it's normal for the fans to be cycling on and off when the green connectors are connected. That's a way to test whether the relays are working properly.

i pulled the fuse i thought was it and had it out all night and still didn't clear my stored codes maybe i pulled the wrong fuse which one is 14. when i connected the green connectors again this morning i got just the 52 code which i think is because i have my shift lock removed it broke on me 3 years ago and i just took it out but i never got a cel from it do you think that would be causing it if so why now is it causing problems

The proper fuse is labeled EGI/TCU on the fuse box cover.

Code 52 is related to the inhibitor switch. I don't think the shift lock would specifically cause that codes, but I haven't had that code before.

I added oil it was a little low, got a leak in the front anyways the 22 code went away but still got the 52 code but no cel for now. is there a common spot for these cars to leak in the front I'm thinking about fixing it one of these days thank you for your help

The front cam & crank oil seals should probably be replaced. Typically when that is done the oil pump is resealed. There is a backing plate on the pump and these screws come loose. When replacing the front crank seal it's good to just pull the pump off, check the backing screws, replace the o-ring between the block & pump, and reseal with ultra gray silicone the pump & block.

Also, the valve cover gaskets & grommets are normal leakers.

should i do the timing belt while I'm at it i don't think it has been replaced unless the former owner did it; how hard is that job, are these zero tolerance motors,

The timing belt isn't too bad to do. If you're doing everything else and don't know when it was last replaced, it'd be a good idea.

Here's some scans for the timing belt job. The big thing is do not compress the timing belt tensioner too fastly, you can damage it.

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... _belt1.jpg
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... _belt2.jpg
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... _belt3.jpg
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... _belt4.jpg
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... _belt5.jpg
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... _belt6.jpg
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... _belt7.jpg
http://main.experiencetherave.com/subar ... _belt8.jpg


These engines are non-interference engines.