legacycentral bbs

Hey so i have a quick question. i am trying to swap a transmission from a 96 subaru outback legacy to a 98 outback legacy. anyone know if this will work? my car has a 2.5 liter in it and the car i took the tranny out of also was a 2.5.

It should work. You can check the transmission plugs to see if they're the same. One thing to look for tho is the transmission codes on the bell housing. You're going to want to make sure the final drive ratio is the same.

Thank you for the info. How do u read the codes and I was also told I may need the computer for the transmission. Is that the case

There's a sticker on the bellhousing by the starter with letters and numbers. You would Google that code. I can't answer about the transmission computer.

I'm going to assume you're talking about the automatics since you say transmission computer, and the 96 had a 2.5 (all 2.5l 96's were auto). Both transmissions should be phase 1 with 4.44 final drive. There isn't any reason the tcu should need to be changed for this swap.

Yes it is a automatic. I am hoping to pull the engine and transmission out together , then separate then after the fact. I am wondering were people are attaching to for the front chain attach. And if this is a good idea.

So I have a good question about the torque converter clutch and if I have problem with mine.
When I got the used transmission from the junk yard somebody else had pulled the engine and the torque converter had been taken out so I went put it back in and found out that the seal had been damaged and the the snapring broken. So I bought a brand knew seal and replaced the broken clip. I attached the short shaft to the torque converter and slide it back into the transmission. However when I did I felt two clicks and it all seemed to go in. As I went mate the transmissiom and engine up I noticed that the torque converter sat back far snuff to rubb on the inside of the bell house but once I bolted this to the engine plate it pulled the torque converter forward and it no longer seems to rubb but I am worried that somehow something is not right. Any thoughts anyone. I have hard that if not seated all the way u will runn the oil pump ring

Most people that have problems with the converter is that they don't seat it properly and feel the two clicks. The fact that the converter is hitting the bell housing it is seated all the way, and yes that's normal.

Thank you for the info, I had search thought the Hanes Manuel with no luck on finding anything on the torque converter . Or how to even check to make sure they were right. And all the info on line did not show a short shaft clipping into the converter like subsystem do

So I another question, I had great luck with all the help from you all. When I got the transmission from the junk yard one of the front seals for the cv shaft was damaged and I removed the bolt and metal tab so I could screw out the piece that retains the bearing and is the housing for the cv shaft. I did not realize that these have to be re torqued or some how tensioned so that your bearing stays properly seated. Is there any way for me to figure out a way to re torque this with out going to a transmission tech? I made the mistake of not counting the turns out on this there for have no idea a all to how far this was screwed in.

I don't know the answer for an automatic, but on a manual you would have to split the tranny in half and use a dial gauge to get the ring and pinion's lash correct.

If you don't set it correctly (or pretty close), the tranny will still work for a while till the R&P eats itself. How long that takes is anyone's guess.

Download your year fsm from this thread http://sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?t=28539

It will have the specific instructions you need to get it set back right.

You can follow the instructions in the factory manual.

The other thing you can try, however it does involve a little bit of luck. If there is a mark where the clip that held the bearing cap on you can try and screw down the cap until it won't go any more and the mark lines up. The issue with this is there is a chance of not turning it enough so the bearings don't have enough preload. You could give this method a try and see if you can get things to line up. From my experience if it's still relatively easy to turn the bearing cap, it probably needs to go around another turn.

Like I said, the above method involves a little bit of luck and skill, but may be your only option if you don't have the tools to properly set the bearing cap pre-load and don't want to take it to a mechanic.

Thanks for all the great help it seems turn fairly easily so I will try taking it around another turn