legacycentral bbs

Just about to ready to give my touring wagon away and be done with it. For about a month now I've been dealing with this headache. My car randomly started idling at about 1500rpm and was running rough. Now it's got to the point where I can't even give it more than a 5th of the throttle or it will sputter and buck all over the place. Going up hill is out of the question.. I've redone the timing 4 times now thinking that was the problem. I put a whole new timing kit in; belt, pullys, tensioner and water pump. No change.. I've also put brand new ngk plugs and wires, new turbo, brand new cam and crank sensors and I've tried 3 different IACVS. Still nothing!!! Maybe you guys can help me here? I've also tested compression in all 4 cylinders and I got 150-160

My wife's car "kinda" did the same thing. Hers idled high and bucked for a second after giving a little throttle. Turned out her MAF was a little dirty, and I changed out her TPS at the same time. Doesn't do it "as much" but still will occasionally idle high, but doesn't buck anymore......if that helps???

It sounds like you either have a bad MAF or a vacuum leak in the intake piping.

I've smoked tested my intake system and it has no leaks. Although I don't know if it has any while I'm driving. I've cleaned the maf about a month ago and the problem is still there. I'm getting a check engine light for the following:
13 cam sensor
22 knock sensor
24 iacv
35 canister purge solenoid
44 duty solenoid valve
45 pressure sensor and pressure exchange solenoid

Have you cleared the stored codes and checked again? Have you run the active diagnostic with the green connectors?

I've attempted to clear them via plugging both connectors in a driving over 20 mph for awhile, and disconnecting the negative battery terminal over night. But they still come back.. I have ran both sets of connectors but I am seeing no change

So you've run only the green diagnostic connectors and followed the procedure below?

To perform D-check, start with both connectors disconnected, start the engine, allow it to warm up, then turn it off. Next, connect the test mode connectors (green T-shape). Turn ignition to ON position without turning on engine. At this point if the check engine light does not come on, it is faulty and must be fixed before continuing. Depress accelerator pedal to floor, return to half throttle and hold for two seconds, then release. Start the engine. Now the light can blink in two different ways. If everything checks out so far, it will blink to indicate a number 01, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, or 08. If a problem is already detected, it will blink according to the chart below. Either way, your next step will be to drive the car with the test mode connectors connected. You must drive over 7 mph for at least one minute, and shift up to 4th gear if you have a manual tranny. Now, either you will discover any trouble codes, or if you have none it will blink at a steady rate.

Roger that, I was doing it wrong. Later I'll conduct the correct procedure and keep you updated josh. Thanks

Update: I connected the green connectors while driving and got code 51 for neutral and inhibitor switch. My car was once a 4mt but the previous owner did a 5mt swap. Not entirely sure if these would make a difference in my car running optimal or not. But other than that there is still no change..

Did you mean to say that your car was once a 4EAT and was converted to 5MT?

Do you know what was done for the swap?

That is correct josh. I have no idea what was done fully. I do know that he cut pin 48 so the Ecu knows it's a manual. And on the connectors that were supposed to plug into the auto transmission, he tied 2 wires together so it knows it's not in park. Also, when he was swapping the 5mt over he ripped the pig tails out of the harness for the crank and cam sensors. With that being said, I had to re wire them via butt connectors and new pig tails from the junkyard. Also previously stated I bought new cam and crank sensors to accommodate the janky wiring I had to perform. I'm also pretty sure my car might be stuck in "limp mode" any thoughts?

I apologize for the extremely delayed response, I haven't been on the BBS in a while.

Are you still having issues? If so do you know if the previous owner pulled out the TCU and shift lock controller?

so I managed to figure it out josh. my car keeps jumping timing because the key way on the crankshaft is sheared off. without the belt on on, I can move the crank sprocket back and fourth with a lot of play. therefor when I hit the gas it skips a tooth and timing gets undone. tried welding it, didn't work. so im left with the option of building a new motor or tearing mine out and putting a new crank in. but I don't have the time or money to fix it..

I've JB welded the keyway in the end of the crank on a POS I used to have, held up for 20k miles before HG blew...kinda back yard mechanic but it does work (sometimes)

Yeah, it'd be worth trying that, but if welding didn't fix then I'm not sure JB would work either. You could maybe see if you can find a used long block to swap in.