legacycentral bbs

> From: "Dave C" <legacycentral@yahoo.com>
> Subject: Re: air to water IC (long)

I agree with Rod, the pump should be running whenever the car is. But, if
you want to experiment I would recommend using a switch that the street rod
guys use to control the turn on/off point of the electric radiator fan.
They come in both fixed and adjustable temperature ranges. You will
probably need a relay between the switch and the pump (depending on your
pumps current draw) but I think you can buy the switch/relay/wiring harness
as a kit for pretty reasonable. You could try running your pump at a slower
speed whenever the car is running to keep the coolant circulating and
ramping the speed up when the temp sensor indicates higher intercooler
temps.......just a thought.

Now that I have installed the 3" exhaust the next step is to install the
air/air intercooler and larger turbo. I too did the AC line relocation
about a year ago with no troubles to date.

If anyone has installed a later model turbo or one without the 'bolt-on' 90
degree inlet for the compressor - how did you deal with connecting the MAF
to the turbo? I found some short radius silicone 90's that should work but
was wondering what others have done.

PeteH


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I'm beginning to lean toward something that runs constantly, but i'm
still not certain.

How's that 3" exhaust feel?

--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "PJHARJ" <pjharj@s...> wrote:
>
> > From: "Dave C" <legacycentral@y...>
> > Subject: Re: air to water IC (long)
>
> I agree with Rod, the pump should be running whenever the car is.
But, if
> you want to experiment I would recommend using a switch that the
street rod
> guys use to control the turn on/off point of the electric radiator
fan.
> They come in both fixed and adjustable temperature ranges. You will
> probably need a relay between the switch and the pump (depending on
your
> pumps current draw) but I think you can buy the switch/relay/wiring
harness
> as a kit for pretty reasonable. You could try running your pump at
a slower
> speed whenever the car is running to keep the coolant circulating
and
> ramping the speed up when the temp sensor indicates higher
intercooler
> temps.......just a thought.
>
> Now that I have installed the 3" exhaust the next step is to
install the
> air/air intercooler and larger turbo. I too did the AC line
relocation
> about a year ago with no troubles to date.
>
> If anyone has installed a later model turbo or one without
the 'bolt-on' 90
> degree inlet for the compressor - how did you deal with connecting
the MAF
> to the turbo? I found some short radius silicone 90's that should
work but
> was wondering what others have done.
>
> PeteH


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BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com

>If anyone in Australia/NZ can source these, i'd consider the split
>power version.

I don't know if any are marketed this way but I think most can be made to
run this way. To reduce the flow you simply reduce the voltage to the pump,
6 volts would be roughly half speed.

>Subject: : Re: air to water IC
>
>I'm beginning to lean toward something that runs constantly, but i'm
>still not certain.

Try it and test the temps to see if it is worth the trouble, you can test
the temps using some cheap thermocouples and a digital multimeter (check
Ebay). You could also cycle the pump on/off at timed intervals or use a
hobb's switch to turn the pump on when under boost. There are also many
types of heat exchangers available, from 4' long x 2" x2" (roughly) to the
more common square radiator type and everything inbetween. I don't think
you can go too large with the heat exchanger but it is possable to get the
water moving through it too fast that it won't disapate the heat. Redline
makes a product called 'Water Wetter' that helps with the heat transfer
properties of the water. This stuff REALLY WORKS, I wouldn't consider
running a water/air intercooler system without it! You also have a lot of
water pump options available from the street rod/drag race guys.


<How's that 3" exhaust feel?

Awesome, about like adding 3/4 more pounds of boost! It has been pretty
hot/humid here in WI lately (80-90 degrees with 70-85% humidity during the
day) but pretty decent at night. It revs quite a bit harder/faster with no
more flat spot at 4500rpm, VERY smooth to redline. I am running a 3" cat
(test have proven a well designed cat will NOT reduce hp and will actually
increase low-end torque) and a 3" Ultra Flo Dynomax race muffler (a big
oversized straight through glaspack style). I followed Bill's lead and
bought aluminized mandrel bends from JC Whitney for the whole system and
welded it all together my self with a Miller 110volt Mig welder that I
bought for the project. I spent about $50 more doing it myself than the
local muffler guy wanted but I got a nice welder out of the deal! The wife
says it is a little bit load but not bad, it's a really low pitched growl at
idle but it doesn't get much loader at higher rpm's and is not offensive at
highway speeds. All in all I am very pleased If I decide to go quieter
I can still add one of those spiral type inserts into the system, I found a
circle track type outfit that makes a 'BPM twister' type piece that will fit
into my 3" pipe for about $35 that should quiet it down a bit more.

PeteH





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BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com

You might want to check with JC Sports they have a nice modern pump
that is made in Sweden. I wish it had been around when I purchased a
pump feom Spearco that was expensive and a litle large. Running a DC
motor pump is a little more complicated than just reducing the voltage
.The best way is to use a speed controller that pulses the voltage to
the pump by means of what is called pulse width modulation this will
run the pump better and prevent overheating. On coolant Caterpillar
makes a high grade antifreeze that is already mixed with what I think
Water Wetter is and that is ionized water and it seems to work well.
Large Truck service outfits carry it and the one I go to will also
cut silicone hose to length. They are also open 24-7. Al





--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "PJHARJ" <pjharj@s...> wrote:
> >If anyone in Australia/NZ can source these, i'd consider the split
> >power version.
>
> I don't know if any are marketed this way but I think most can be
made to
> run this way. To reduce the flow you simply reduce the voltage to
the pump,
> 6 volts would be roughly half speed.
>
> >Subject: : Re: air to water IC
> >
> >I'm beginning to lean toward something that runs constantly, but
i'm
> >still not certain.
>
> Try it and test the temps to see if it is worth the trouble, you can
test
> the temps using some cheap thermocouples and a digital multimeter
(check
> Ebay). You could also cycle the pump on/off at timed intervals or
use a
> hobb's switch to turn the pump on when under boost. There are also
many
> types of heat exchangers available, from 4' long x 2" x2" (roughly)
to the
> more common square radiator type and everything inbetween. I don't
think
> you can go too large with the heat exchanger but it is possable to
get the
> water moving through it too fast that it won't disapate the heat.
Redline
> makes a product called 'Water Wetter' that helps with the heat
transfer
> properties of the water. This stuff REALLY WORKS, I wouldn't
consider
> running a water/air intercooler system without it! You also have a
lot of
> water pump options available from the street rod/drag race guys.
>
>
> <How's that 3" exhaust feel?
>
> Awesome, about like adding 3/4 more pounds of boost! It has been
pretty
> hot/humid here in WI lately (80-90 degrees with 70-85% humidity
during the
> day) but pretty decent at night. It revs quite a bit harder/faster
with no
> more flat spot at 4500rpm, VERY smooth to redline. I am running a 3"
cat
> (test have proven a well designed cat will NOT reduce hp and will
actually
> increase low-end torque) and a 3" Ultra Flo Dynomax race muffler (a
big
> oversized straight through glaspack style). I followed Bill's lead
and
> bought aluminized mandrel bends from JC Whitney for the whole system
and
> welded it all together my self with a Miller 110volt Mig welder that
I
> bought for the project. I spent about $50 more doing it myself than
the
> local muffler guy wanted but I got a nice welder out of the deal!
The wife
> says it is a little bit load but not bad, it's a really low pitched
growl at
> idle but it doesn't get much loader at higher rpm's and is not
offensive at
> highway speeds. All in all I am very pleased If I decide to go
quieter
> I can still add one of those spiral type inserts into the system, I
found a
> circle track type outfit that makes a 'BPM twister' type piece that
will fit
> into my 3" pipe for about $35 that should quiet it down a bit more.
>
> PeteH


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BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com

There also is a AIR-TO-WATER group here on Yahoo that might be of some
help. What I am using for a heat exchanger on my setup is a radiator
from a 1500cc watercooled Honda motorcycle.





--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., acroxford@h... wrote:
> You might want to check with JC Sports they have a nice modern pump
> that is made in Sweden. I wish it had been around when I purchased a
> pump feom Spearco that was expensive and a litle large. Running a DC
> motor pump is a little more complicated than just reducing the
voltage
> .The best way is to use a speed controller that pulses the voltage
to
> the pump by means of what is called pulse width modulation this will
> run the pump better and prevent overheating. On coolant Caterpillar
> makes a high grade antifreeze that is already mixed with what I
think
> Water Wetter is and that is ionized water and it seems to work well.
> Large Truck service outfits carry it and the one I go to will also
> cut silicone hose to length. They are also open 24-7. Al
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "PJHARJ" <pjharj@s...> wrote:
> > >If anyone in Australia/NZ can source these, i'd consider the
split
> > >power version.
> >
> > I don't know if any are marketed this way but I think most can be
> made to
> > run this way. To reduce the flow you simply reduce the voltage to
> the pump,
> > 6 volts would be roughly half speed.
> >
> > >Subject: : Re: air to water IC
> > >
> > >I'm beginning to lean toward something that runs constantly, but
> i'm
> > >still not certain.
> >
> > Try it and test the temps to see if it is worth the trouble, you
can
> test
> > the temps using some cheap thermocouples and a digital multimeter
> (check
> > Ebay). You could also cycle the pump on/off at timed intervals or
> use a
> > hobb's switch to turn the pump on when under boost. There are
also
> many
> > types of heat exchangers available, from 4' long x 2" x2"
(roughly)
> to the
> > more common square radiator type and everything inbetween. I
don't
> think
> > you can go too large with the heat exchanger but it is possable to
> get the
> > water moving through it too fast that it won't disapate the heat.

> Redline
> > makes a product called 'Water Wetter' that helps with the heat
> transfer
> > properties of the water. This stuff REALLY WORKS, I wouldn't
> consider
> > running a water/air intercooler system without it! You also have
a
> lot of
> > water pump options available from the street rod/drag race guys.
> >
> >
> > <How's that 3" exhaust feel?
> >
> > Awesome, about like adding 3/4 more pounds of boost! It has been
> pretty
> > hot/humid here in WI lately (80-90 degrees with 70-85% humidity
> during the
> > day) but pretty decent at night. It revs quite a bit
harder/faster
> with no
> > more flat spot at 4500rpm, VERY smooth to redline. I am running a
3"
> cat
> > (test have proven a well designed cat will NOT reduce hp and will
> actually
> > increase low-end torque) and a 3" Ultra Flo Dynomax race muffler
(a
> big
> > oversized straight through glaspack style). I followed Bill's
lead
> and
> > bought aluminized mandrel bends from JC Whitney for the whole
system
> and
> > welded it all together my self with a Miller 110volt Mig welder
that
> I
> > bought for the project. I spent about $50 more doing it myself
than
> the
> > local muffler guy wanted but I got a nice welder out of the deal!

> The wife
> > says it is a little bit load but not bad, it's a really low
pitched
> growl at
> > idle but it doesn't get much loader at higher rpm's and is not
> offensive at
> > highway speeds. All in all I am very pleased If I decide to
go
> quieter
> > I can still add one of those spiral type inserts into the system,
I
> found a
> > circle track type outfit that makes a 'BPM twister' type piece
that
> will fit
> > into my 3" pipe for about $35 that should quiet it down a bit
more.
> >
> > PeteH


To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com

The only disadvantage of running a 12volt motor at say 6volts is it will not
be nearly as efficient and they tend to heat up, correct? I raced remote
control cars for many years and used many different speed control setups,
some were more motor friendly than others but the biggest difference was in
the amount of control. I can not contribute any motor failure to even the
crudest speed controlling device.

An aftermarket company by the name CSI Performance Products has a unique
product which you may find useful:

The CSI digital programmable temperature gauge allows you to set your
electric water pump and fans to turn on and off at any water temperature you
want. The 2-1/16" gauge comes with all necessary sending units, relays, and
instructions.
CSI-1225.......................................$79.95 from
www.SummitRacing.com

And no, I am not going to be using air/water intercooling. I don't think it
will be as effective as the air/air for the way I drive.

PeteH

>Running a DC
>motor pump is a little more complicated than just reducing the >voltage
>.The best way is to use a speed controller that pulses the voltage >to
>the pump by means of what is called pulse width modulation this >will
>run the pump better and prevent overheating. On coolant >Caterpillar
>makes a high grade antifreeze that is already mixed with what I >think
>Water Wetter is and that is ionized water and it seems to work >well.
>Large Truck service outfits carry it and the one I go to will also
>cut silicone hose to length. They are also open 24-7. Al








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BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Not really DC motors like to be run at rated voltage and will start to
draw more currant as they slow dowm and approch stall and by that time
things are usually pretty warm. This was one of the reasons for the AC
system over the 32 volt DC that was used in a lot of places, even
parts of Chicago as late as the 1950s. and there were a lot of motor
failures due to voltage drop.



--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "PJHARJ" <pjharj@s...> wrote:
> The only disadvantage of running a 12volt motor at say 6volts is it
will not
> be nearly as efficient and they tend to heat up, correct? I raced
remote
> control cars for many years and used many different speed control
setups,
> some were more motor friendly than others but the biggest difference
was in
> the amount of control. I can not contribute any motor failure to
even the
> crudest speed controlling device.
>
> An aftermarket company by the name CSI Performance Products has a
unique
> product which you may find useful:
>
> The CSI digital programmable temperature gauge allows you to set
your
> electric water pump and fans to turn on and off at any water
temperature you
> want. The 2-1/16" gauge comes with all necessary sending units,
relays, and
> instructions.
> CSI-1225.......................................$79.95 from
> www.SummitRacing.com
>
> And no, I am not going to be using air/water intercooling. I don't
think it
> will be as effective as the air/air for the way I drive.
>
> PeteH
>
> >Running a DC
> >motor pump is a little more complicated than just reducing the
>voltage
> >.The best way is to use a speed controller that pulses the voltage
>to
> >the pump by means of what is called pulse width modulation this
>will
> >run the pump better and prevent overheating. On coolant
>Caterpillar
> >makes a high grade antifreeze that is already mixed with what I
>think
> >Water Wetter is and that is ionized water and it seems to work
>well.
> >Large Truck service outfits carry it and the one I go to will also
> >cut silicone hose to length. They are also open 24-7. Al


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