Manual shifter issues

[FundamentalyConfused]

The past few days I've been having issues getting the trans to shift. Most of the time it happens when it's going into second but when I get the resistance it carries over to 1st and 3rd but not 4th 5th or reverse. I know my clutch bearings need replacement and the trans has a possible 300k miles on it but could the shifter bushings be going bad? Or maybe there's a bad pin or something? I hope it's not bad synchros.

It's getting really frustrating trying to shift into second after takeoff and it's not there for me.

[mike-tracy]

Is it possible your shifter return spring is damaged or broken? When going into second, if you hold the shift knob more to the left does it go in easier?

[entirelyturbo]

Does you shifter flop around a lot, especially from side to side, when it's in gear. That's the tell-tale sign of worn-out shifter bushings.

It sounds more like your clutch is on its way out. How long ago did you replace it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[FundamentalyConfused]

Yes my shifter does flop around when in gear.

I'm not certain if it makes it easier shifting if I pull it farther to the left or not. Last night when I went on a store run I noticed it wasn't wanting to stay in 2nd. I'd go to put it into 2nd but if I didn't hold it in when releasing the clutch it would pop back out with some gear grinding.

I haven't replaced the clutch yet. I still have to get exhaust gaskets, a new flywheel, shifter bushings, rear main seal and valve cover gaskets before I get the trans out. This is my daily driver so I have to do this on the weekend and have all the parts I'll need before the operation.

The only spring I see in the diagram is the small one that's connected to the stay rod, is that the spring you're talking about Mike?

[Someperson]

Yes

[FundamentalyConfused]

Is it better to check that out from above or underneath? I've already got the console taken out in advance of my clutch job and I could unscrew the boot plate to look in but honestly I'd rather not tear into something that I'm not ready to fix yet.

It won't be easy for me to check out things because of little space and limited tools to work with that's why I'm asking which would be better.

[entirelyturbo]

If you're about to remove your trans to do a clutch, that is the best time to do shifter bushings. It's a pain in the balls to do with the trans still in the car, especially if it's AWD.

This thread will help you visualize what kind of job it is.

I have to do it on my B4 soon and I am not looking forward to it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[FundamentalyConfused]

I would be replacing the bushings when I do the clutch but I was just wondering which way was easier to see the problem.

[SUBYLUV871]

I did new linkage, rod end and pitman arm. it feels like a rac car now. i used group n and cart boy bushings for a wrx. i did it when i pulled my tranny cause it went bad. i had a lift which made it alot better.

[FundamentalyConfused]

Well I'm going to do what I can to get under it tonight and get a good look at it. Might even try to take the whole assembly out and really look it over.

[sqc151]

I noticed it wasn't wanting to stay in 2nd. I'd go to put it into 2nd but if I didn't hold it in when releasing the clutch it would pop back out with some gear grinding.

just by this statement you need synchros. before spending all the money on all new stuff. to me, it seems like you need synchros. you can get a whole trans for 3-400 in good condition. but i wouldnt do all that work just to find out u have bad synchros.

id check that first before anything.
just my .02 cents.

[FundamentalyConfused]

How would I test for bad synchros? I took it to a trans shop about 8 months ago to see if they could diagnose why it was difficult to shift and they said they wouldn't be able to tell me anything without taking out the trans.

[sqc151]

as someone that went thru this back in the 90s with my 91 n/a 5sp. 5th gear would not stay in unless i held it or stay on the gas. once i let off the gas it would pop out indicating a synchro problem. its more costly to rebuilt it. just find another trans. also, the turbo trans are around the 400 price. you can probably get another n/a trans at the junkyard for about half that and at least you wont spend anything but time swapping it out. if it doesnt work, get another one. your still ahead on money spent to rebuild one. (taking into consideration you will be doing the work yourself)

[FundamentalyConfused]

Well I'm going to try the clutch change first and see what that ends up with. I can hear my bearings howling badly now since I removed the shifter boot and cover pieces.

I knew I needed a clutch job done when I got the car but I haven't been able to afford the parts. I've been slowly buying pieces until I have all the parts that I need to do the job.

My hope is that my issue is just some bad shifter bushings and bad clutch & bearings but with over 300k miles on the body, engine was replaced but not sure if the trans was, theres going to be bad bushings all over but there could be a trans issue as well if it's the original.

I know the input shaft bearing could be going out on me too. How would I be able to tell after I get the trans out? Is there any wiggle to the thing allowed? What are the not so obvious signs I should be looking for?

I'm getting a bad feeling I might need a new trans but there's only 2 ways to tell. 1, replace the bad clutch and any bushings on the shifter or take the trans to a shop and let them at it. Then again I'd have to go through the painful process of taking the trans back out if it's not just the clutch and bushings.

[sqc151]

the trans on my 91 n/a started going at about 320ish. drove it to 350k when it spun a rod bearing.

[FundamentalyConfused]

After looking at the shifter bushings from underneath it looks like all of them are shot. I'm going to replace all the bushings when I do the clutch and see if the trans is still bad. Hopefully my federal taxes will come in this week and I'll be able to get started on this project.

[sqc151]

hope it works out for you bro. (basically, i hope im wrong)

[FundamentalyConfused]

I hope you're wrong too! lol j/k

I don't look forward to taking the trans back out if that's the problem but I don't want to spend the extra $ on it at this moment. Once I get all the new parts on it I'll see what I'm really working with and by that point I'll know exactly how to take that bastard out and the new one will go in quick.

[FundamentalyConfused]

The shifter handle came off in my hand today. Thankfully I was really close to home, that would have been a struggle shifting with that little nub. lol

[sqc151]

let me guess. you have a rubber nub? ...lol. mine used to do that to. i shaved it off. cut down the rod (basically made my own shirt shifter...lol) and re welded the threads back on so i could use the stock knob... not to many options on modding back in the mid 90s when i had my 91...lol

[FundamentalyConfused]

Yeah I have the rubber nub. It looked like the handle was half way off when I took the console off. Thankfully it happened after and not before. That would have been difficult to shift with that boot on!!

[sqc151]

lol, when my shifter handle kept falling off i just used the nub (giggity) for a few months till i shortened it. (giggity, giggity)

[FundamentalyConfused]

Oh thank you Subaru Gods!!

With my trusty vise grip and a cleaned shaft with brake cleaner it went back on!! That would have been a hellish ride into work tomorrow!!

Someone really jacked up the threads on the top of that shaft. I bet this happened b4 and that dude used a hammer and cut the mushroom off. Pretty soon my knob will be spinning free from those sharp cuts.

Man this repair list is growing daily.

[sqc151]

get a raaco (i think thats what it called) short shifter or something. or change it to a wrx/rs shifter linkage so you can put a actual short shifter in if u want.

[Someperson]

Ralco?