Yeah, gonna hopefully be checking timing tonight, I didn't set the ting last time someone else did but I'm sure they knew what was what when I came to timing.
As for a vacuum leak, really at this point it could be anything.
And to answer the last one.. Kind of. It still bogs, just not as bad. Under 1k, anything more then 50% pedal will make it bog. After 1k it's pretty much any pedal position works.
Stuttering/bogging under load UNDER 2k rpm
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- First Gear
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Re: Stuttering/bogging under load UNDER 2k rpm
- '93 Metallic Blue Legacy L, DD w/lots of mods
- '91 Mazda Miata, Autox fun car
- '91 Mazda Miata, Autox fun car
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- First Gear
- Posts: 187
- Joined: Sat Jan 11, 2014 6:31 am
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Re: Stuttering/bogging under load UNDER 2k rpm (FIXED)
So the problem is FIXED.
The issue manifested itself I. The form of a wobbly crank pulley. It would not wobble at idle, but revving the engine showed it was in fact wobbling hard. The bolt had come undone so much thatthe car would not start and just crank till the battery died. So me and my friends pulled everything apart to show that the key-way and pulley had been significantly worn out. A new key still fit, and the new pulley was straight. So we got timing back together and cranked the crank bolt down to 140ft/lbs as suggested on this form. Car runs amazing and better then ever.
So my final question, because the key-way got worn out, will it still continue to wear out even if the bolt is torqued to the right specs, and eventually do this again? I've seen people say yes and no. The pulley still has a slight wobble, so I will be checking it every 6 months or if I feel like I'm having the same symptoms as before. I know once the key-way is worn all the way out I'll need a new crank/engine/car at that point.
The issue manifested itself I. The form of a wobbly crank pulley. It would not wobble at idle, but revving the engine showed it was in fact wobbling hard. The bolt had come undone so much thatthe car would not start and just crank till the battery died. So me and my friends pulled everything apart to show that the key-way and pulley had been significantly worn out. A new key still fit, and the new pulley was straight. So we got timing back together and cranked the crank bolt down to 140ft/lbs as suggested on this form. Car runs amazing and better then ever.
So my final question, because the key-way got worn out, will it still continue to wear out even if the bolt is torqued to the right specs, and eventually do this again? I've seen people say yes and no. The pulley still has a slight wobble, so I will be checking it every 6 months or if I feel like I'm having the same symptoms as before. I know once the key-way is worn all the way out I'll need a new crank/engine/car at that point.
- '93 Metallic Blue Legacy L, DD w/lots of mods
- '91 Mazda Miata, Autox fun car
- '91 Mazda Miata, Autox fun car
Re: Stuttering/bogging under load UNDER 2k rpm
Did the key fit snuggly in the keyway? If so and you torqued everything down good, I think you should be ok.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
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- First Gear
- Posts: 187
- Joined: Sat Jan 11, 2014 6:31 am
- Location: Albuquerque, NM
Re: Stuttering/bogging under load UNDER 2k rpm
Yes, when everything was back together the key nicely in the key way. And yeah, we torqued the hell out of it.
- '93 Metallic Blue Legacy L, DD w/lots of mods
- '91 Mazda Miata, Autox fun car
- '91 Mazda Miata, Autox fun car
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- First Gear
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Re: Stuttering/bogging under load UNDER 2k rpm
GOOD STUFF. Makes sense because the crank sprocket is driven off than same key way so an slack (or no spin at all) would cause irregular crank signal. Nice find!
1991 Legacy SS (BC) EJ22T // 4EAT // Pewter Metallic (Sold)
1991 Legacy SS (BC) EJ22T // 5MT // Rio Red (Sold)
1991 Legacy SSRS (BC) EJ20G (Full COP and AWIC Swap) // 5MT // White Pearl Tri-Coat Africa Rally replica in progress.
1991 Legacy SS (BC) EJ22T // 5MT // Rio Red (Sold)
1991 Legacy SSRS (BC) EJ20G (Full COP and AWIC Swap) // 5MT // White Pearl Tri-Coat Africa Rally replica in progress.
Re: Stuttering/bogging under load UNDER 2k rpm
Good job finding that one. Glad you got sorted out.
I had read somewhere it should be torqued more that whats in the manual. I think I when to 108 or more
I had read somewhere it should be torqued more that whats in the manual. I think I when to 108 or more
Re: Stuttering/bogging under load UNDER 2k rpm
Yeah, the manuals are wrong. The crank pulley should be torqured from around 110 - 120 ft-lbs.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
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- First Gear
- Posts: 187
- Joined: Sat Jan 11, 2014 6:31 am
- Location: Albuquerque, NM
Re: Stuttering/bogging under load UNDER 2k rpm
Lol, well I guess my bolt will never be coming undone.
- '93 Metallic Blue Legacy L, DD w/lots of mods
- '91 Mazda Miata, Autox fun car
- '91 Mazda Miata, Autox fun car