Updated(4/28): Won't start
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Updated(4/28): Won't start
Well, I got my new hardpipes for my WRX IC on today and I went over to the car wash. Usally, I spray everything all over and don't care what it is. Bad idea. I get back in my car and, *click click click click*. Aww shit, the car doesn't start, so I had to roll it forward and pop the clutch.
My question to you is, is the ticking sound the starter not engauging or the coil pack being wet? I'm going to let it dry tonight and see if it could be that. Any ideas would help
My question to you is, is the ticking sound the starter not engauging or the coil pack being wet? I'm going to let it dry tonight and see if it could be that. Any ideas would help
Last edited by J-MoNeY on Thu Apr 28, 2005 7:51 am, edited 3 times in total.
98 LGT
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- Vikash
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Well, that wouldn't be the coil then, right? It's gotta be the starter, starter solenoid, or battery cables, right?
Does it click over and over, or just once every time you try to start?
I'm thinking it's probably the starter solenoid. Probably the contacts.
Does it click over and over, or just once every time you try to start?
I'm thinking it's probably the starter solenoid. Probably the contacts.
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Clean all contacts and check the battery. Sounds like the starter isn't getting enough power.
Steve
Steve
Midnight in a Perfect World on Amazon or order anywhere. The first book in a quartet chronicling the rise of a man from angry criminal to philanthropist. Midnight... is a distopic noirish novel featuring 'Duchess', a modified 1990 Subaru Legacy wagon.
As time has gone by, I'm starting to think it's not the starter. I think it's the ignitor. The ignitor is just dangeling there near the engine and gets extremely hot. I have found that when the engine is hot, it doesn't want to start. However when it's cold it does. Any ideas on keeping my ignitor cool? I was thinking tin foil.
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- Vikash
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Yeah, that does sound like it could be it.
The ignitor is designed to last as long as the engine if mounted on its steel bracket. So mount it to its steel bracket (the bracket doesn't have to be bolted to the middle of the firewall). Put some heat sink compound between the two to help improve thermal contact.
The ignitor is designed to last as long as the engine if mounted on its steel bracket. So mount it to its steel bracket (the bracket doesn't have to be bolted to the middle of the firewall). Put some heat sink compound between the two to help improve thermal contact.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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I had this problem, if your car is standard, check the one wire coming from the back of the starter to the wiring harness, mine was attached, but not connected, once I pluged in on properly it started right up. I guess putting my intercooler on must have unplugged it.
Hope this helps
Frazer
Hope this helps
Frazer
04 modified XT
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99 LGT Limited
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Usually the relay is in the engine compartment, but I'm actually not sure on our cars. I'd check the plastic box behind the battery for that.
Steve
Steve
Midnight in a Perfect World on Amazon or order anywhere. The first book in a quartet chronicling the rise of a man from angry criminal to philanthropist. Midnight... is a distopic noirish novel featuring 'Duchess', a modified 1990 Subaru Legacy wagon.
I'm reading the Haynes manual and it just doesn't give a discription of where it is, but it sounds like this is it. I get the smell of burnt electronics when I try to start the car. Only in the cabin though. Never in the engine bay. All the contacts for the starter are clean and clear, and the battery cables are connected and clear.
98 LGT
There is no separate relay for the starter. There is a starter solenoid which essentially is a relay, however it's mounted on the starter.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
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I imagine there is a wire going from your ignition switch to the starter selenoid.
Constant 12V+ Black/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Blue/Red Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Red Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Red/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Tach Red/Green Or Blue (-) At Coil
Brake Switch White/Black Brake Switch
Trunk Pin Yellow/Blue (-) Trunk Light
Parking Lights Red Steering Column
Head Lamp Blue/Black (-) Light Switch
Hood Pin n/a
Factory Disarm n/a
Door Trigger Red/White (-) Or Black (-) at Passenger's Pillar
Door Lock n/a Add Actuator in Driver's Door
Door Unlock n/a Add Actuator in Driver's Door
Horn Wire Red/Blue Horn Relay in Driver's Kick
Constant 12V+ Black/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Blue/Red Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Red Ignition Switch Harness
Accessory Red/Yellow Ignition Switch Harness
Tach Red/Green Or Blue (-) At Coil
Brake Switch White/Black Brake Switch
Trunk Pin Yellow/Blue (-) Trunk Light
Parking Lights Red Steering Column
Head Lamp Blue/Black (-) Light Switch
Hood Pin n/a
Factory Disarm n/a
Door Trigger Red/White (-) Or Black (-) at Passenger's Pillar
Door Lock n/a Add Actuator in Driver's Door
Door Unlock n/a Add Actuator in Driver's Door
Horn Wire Red/Blue Horn Relay in Driver's Kick
Update: I'm a moron. We ran a jump wire from the battery to the starter to see if the bendex(?) was actually comming out and engauging the flywheel. It wasn't. This is all after we had taken off my intercooler. I happened to notice that the little ground that ran from the tranny to the perch for the ignitor was way loose. Sanded that down and connected it tightly and wala. Works like a charm. So, as a note to those doing IC installs. This could be a potential problem.
98 LGT