New member with Head problem.........

Heads, valves, pistons, rods, crankshaft, etc...

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blazerayvon
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New member with Head problem.........

Post by blazerayvon »

:D Hi, my name is zack...im 18 and just purchacsed a 1990 legend L... as soon as i got the car the Head gasket blew. 2 questions....do i need to replace the head bolts and does anyone have a head breakdown diagram.....im new at turning wrenches...also how hard is the c\v half shaft to change on the passenger side?
blazerayvon
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Post by blazerayvon »

my mistake its a legacy
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Post by Legacy777 »

the factory manual says to, however I've been told from a subie engine rebuilder, you don't.
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dzx
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Post by dzx »

which side is the bad head gasket? I never changed my bolts except for the head bolt i snapped off in the block :(. Apparently 180 in/lbs is not equal to 180 ft lbs.
///M
'93 Legacy SS - part out
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Post by THAWA »

front or rear halfshaft?
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Post by Project_Legacy »

dzx wrote:Apparently 180 in/lbs is not equal to 180 ft lbs.
LoL. that sure isnt equal. :lol:



if you purchase a manual it should give you a pretty good idea. if you are new to it then yea i would suggest getting one anyway. it helped me a lot with my motor swap and hybriding the motor. ive NEVER done any work like that before either. now i know a lot. :D those manuals are usually about 15 to 20 dollars...
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Post by Matt Monson »

I've never replaced the head bolts with new ones. And leet me know which CV axle you need. I've got all of them for your car in good used condition. Changing them is pretty easy, but you must have an impact wrench to get the lock nut off...
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Post by dzx »

Matt Monson wrote: Changing them is pretty easy, but you must have an impact wrench to get the lock nut off...
I used a nice industrial size breaker bar and a little jumping up and down on it after knocking the knick out of the nook.
///M
'93 Legacy SS - part out
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Post by Matt Monson »

Sounds like too much work for me... :lol:
1974 Porsche 914 Cam Am Limted Edition AKA the Bumble Bee
1973 Porsche 914 2.0 l -Suby swap pending
1968 Porsche 911t survivor 47k original miles
2000 2.5RS daily driver.
1999 2.5RS w/ 50+ extra whp
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blazerayvon
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Post by blazerayvon »

well the half shaft is on the front right passenger side thats the 1 i was talking about and i just got a brand new copy of the manual for the car from the original owner never used.
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Post by blazerayvon »

and i was changing the head gaskets and one of the head bolts are down in the motor now. Does anyone know how 2 get it out in a Aluminum block or is it not possible?????
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Post by Manarius »

blazerayvon wrote:and i was changing the head gaskets and one of the head bolts are down in the motor now. Does anyone know how 2 get it out in a Aluminum block or is it not possible?????
Umm..use a magnet? If the bolt isn't aluminum, you should be able to get it out of there.
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Post by dzx »

He means the bolt snapped off in the engine block lol.
///M
'93 Legacy SS - part out
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Post by Manarius »

dzx wrote:He means the bolt snapped off in the engine block lol.
Oh. I thought he lost it. Didn't know you ought to snap them suckers off eh :P.
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Post by hackish »

Machine shops can usually get the broken pieces out. They can just mill them out and use a tap to clean out the threads.

For the head bolts I would strongly recommend replacing them. I'm not even sure how they will come out of my block when I get to rebuilding it They are really badly rusted!

-Michael
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Post by dzx »

I talked to him about this on msn. His brother in law said that the machine shop told him drilling it out would burr the aluminum. I don't remember what the torque on the head bolts is but my book showed it as being at about 180 in/lbs but it had a screwy system of tightening it. Anybody know what the final torque on the head bolts should be just to be clear?
///M
'93 Legacy SS - part out
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Post by professor »

subaru head bolts like most modern cars are stretch bolts, you really need to follow the Factory Service Manual. Usually that type of bolt has a "torque plus angle" spec, like 160 ft-lb, plus 90 degrees (these are not the actual numbers !!!!)

you need to follow the sequence as well as the torque angle spec

i wouldn't dream of replacing heads on any motor without renewing the head bolts, without a decent excuse (if you have a 2.5 liter aluminum V-8 from a Daimler, well then that's a good excuse)
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blazerayvon
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Post by blazerayvon »

i looked in my haines book....i really have conflictiong views on the torque spec of the head bolts.....does anyone have a link that has the proper info ....(just pulled the block out tonight....going to the machine shop tomorrow!)
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Post by vrg3 »

Have you searched on this board at all?

There's a scan of the entire engine portion of the official Subaru service manual!
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Post by 206er »

here is the cylinder head bolt tightening procedure as per the 1992 FSM:
1.apply a thin film of engine oil to all bolts and washers
2.tighten all bolts to 22ft-lb in the numerical order and then to 51ft-lbs in numerical order
3.back off all bolts by 180deg and then again by another 180deg
4.tighten the middle 2 bolts to 25ft-lb (non turbo) and 27.1ft-lb(turbo)
5.tighten the remaining bolts in order to 11ftlb(non turbo) and 14ft lb(turbo)
6.tighten all bolts by 80 to 90degrees, but NO MORE than 90
7. tighten all bolts again by 90degrees. total re-tightening angle must not exceed 180 degrees.
did anyone's bolts make a hiss when they were loosened? mine did, the bolts must pressurize the threaded hole in the engine block. smelled hella nasty almost like gear oil or something. old oil vapor I guess.
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dzx
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Post by dzx »

I think they may tighten up even more on their own after time. Mine just made a screeching noise when i loosened them.
///M
'93 Legacy SS - part out
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