Some problem after engine swap.... help.

ej22t · Post by **ej22t** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 2:48 am

Hi People, just done the swap for my 2nd JDM EJ20G engine this week. Here is the little history on the old EJ20G and reason why I have to replace another EJ20G engine. The Old EJ20G has leak headgasket and oil mix with coolent. The shop who told me its about $1500 for the engine rebuild. But then I found another EJ20G at the JDM import company in good condition with good price, so I bought that JDM engine and do the swap.

I use the EJ22T ECU with the EJ20G engine wiring. the only different will be the direct coil that can't not be use on the EJ22T ECU. other then that will be plug and play.

After the swap, the engine was hard to start since the main wire harness that above the turbo was melt some of the wire loop so we suspest that make cost the problem then we found out there is a ground wire is not gounded from the ECU (C11) after we gives a ground wire directly to the ECU it start but then we disconnect the ground wire, it could start with out the ground.... we can't find out the reason why we can't start at the beginning.

After the car start it goes like 2000rpm and stay there, then the mechanic put the EJ22T IAC to the connector and the idel goes stable and sound good and everything runs fine.
Then we test drove the car and found out the car will chock or cutting while have a big foot on the gas padel. The turbo can't reach the boost level. it only gose around 2 psi and it cuts. I replace the cam and crank sensers from the old EJ20G engine to see any improve also I use 8.5mm MSD spark plug wire with strock spark plugs and gap it at 0.5mm.

I am using the AVC-R for my boost control and the data remain the same as the last EJ20G engine.

Then I pull out the code and there are 4 codes are 22,35,44,45
Knock senser, Canister purge solenoid valve, Duty solenoid valve
(Wastegate control) and Pressure sensor or pressure exchange solenoid valve.

Since the setting is remain as the same as the old EJ20G engine, why my new engine has so much trouble code comes out??

Please help to let my car runs and thanks for any input.

Ben

legacy92ej22t · Post by **legacy92ej22t** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 2:57 am

With a faulty MAP (or problem with the signal) the car will cut out as soon as you go on boost. I would say that that is your problem and start trouble shooting that. What pressure sensor are you using?

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 3:16 am

Yeah, I think Matt is probably on the right track. If the pressure sensor (code 45), pressure exchange solenoid (code 45 also), or boost control solenoid (code 44) fails, the ECU will cut fuel to prevent you from making any significant boost.

If the sensors are still wired in the same as before, maybe the vacuum hoses are not correctly installed?

This diagram might help:

http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/vacuum/

ej22t · Post by **ej22t** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 4:36 am

Thanks for all yours input. I did check the signal from the MAP to the ECU and its no problem and this MAP as using on the old engine before and it never has this kind of problem.....????
Some correction have to let you guys know.
Just drove to test the car after change the Pressure sensor (or pressure exchange solenoid valve) that locate at the right shocks tower and now it comes out to the new code.
22, 32,35 and 45.
Also after the car cool a bit, then I drove out and give a big foot on it and the cut problem is gone and I could boost to 1.02 kg/mm2 without any cut fuel or chocking feeling, but after a stop light..... about 2 KM from cool start.... the problem come back.....

Any idea?

Ben

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 5:14 am

After the problem comes back, does the code 44 come back too?

How did you check the pressure sensor signal?

ej22t · Post by **ej22t** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 7:34 am

Hi Vrg3, the code 44 didn't come back at all.
Also just check the MAP senser signal by using the volt meter to see they are direct connect to the ECU.
Just to let you know some of the code shows at the beginning. there are total 6 codes shows before I do the ECU clear. the 6 codes are: 12, 22, 32, 35, 44, 45 but now just become 22, 32, 33, 45......
I will try to put the other MAP and try it again.
any other idea????
Ben

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 4:00 pm

Can you put the ECU in test mode (connect the green connectors), turn the ignition on, and see if the pressure exchange solenoid is clicking?

ej22t · Post by **ej22t** » Sat Jul 30, 2005 10:34 pm

I just connected the green plug and the fan is turning and the pressure exchange solenoid is keep clicking.... as its right or have problem if they are clicking??

Ben

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 1:30 am

They should be clicking, yes.

Do you have the means to run my scan tool to see what the ECU's reading from the pressure sensor?

ej22t · Post by **ej22t** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 10:36 pm

I replace the MAP and Pressure sensor.
But it still acting the same problem.
Now the problem like when the car cool it runs good and has normal boost but after the car warm up and it back to the problem.
I reset the ECU and it still has the 4 codes.
22,32,35,45 those codes shows all the time. I just needs to replace the knock senser tomorrow, hope thats the only problem it make all those codes shows.
Something just pop up my mind this morning, is since the shop didn't mark the injector connect from the wire harness so I suspest it will be the mix-up of the injector incorrect connection.
Does it will make the car running like this?
Are there any other method I could check all the sensers are wroking or not???
Thanks for all input.

Ben

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Sun Jul 31, 2005 10:54 pm

I think the scan tool would be a good way to help diagnose code 45, which is definitely what is causing your most obvious symptom.

snowjob · Post by **snowjob** » Mon Aug 01, 2005 12:40 am

did you change the temp sensor?? I had a problem with this in my Ej20. Which by the way just blew up

but It had rod knock from the start, so I'm not supprised, the new wrx ej20 it on it's way from Japan.
Anyway check the coolant sensor. It may be the cause of your pain.

ej22t · Post by **ej22t** » Mon Aug 01, 2005 5:25 pm

Thanks snowjob for your suggestion. What happened on your engine?
BTW, where will be the coolant temp. sensor locate???
I could take out the old Coolant temp sensor from the old engine and put it back to the new engine.
Also are there any methord to test the sensor that on the engine is work or not???
Have to take it step by step.... bad luck for me on this engine.

Ben

professor · Post by **professor** » Mon Aug 01, 2005 6:41 pm

the resistance should be around 2500 ohms, plus or minus

it goes down as the temperature goes up

I'd check you ground connections closely, and swap them temp. sensor

if your sensor were bad it would probably be an open line that would make it run OK when cold but very bad when warm

ej22t · Post by **ej22t** » Mon Aug 01, 2005 6:46 pm

Hi Professor, you are almost right, the car runs ok and with boost at low temp but when the car warms up and it gose no boost and chocking while I step deeper on the gas padel. I have to try to swap the temp. senser now and see if it will solve the problem or not.
BTW, as the coolant temp. senser is on the passenger side, under ther intake manifold but whats the little single pin senser beside it?

Ben

professor · Post by **professor** » Mon Aug 01, 2005 7:58 pm

the single spade sensor is for the dash gage, it won't affect running no matter what. the two pin sensor is what the ECU uses

while you have the multimeter out, check your system voltage to make sure its OK and re-do the grounds under the hood

ej22t · Post by **ej22t** » Tue Aug 02, 2005 2:48 am

what will be the voltage of it, like when cool and hot, I could put it to hot water to check it right?
Please tell me more detail and hope it will go fine after I replace it......

Thanks anyway
Ben

professor · Post by **professor** » Tue Aug 02, 2005 2:35 pm

I believe the ECU send 5 volts to the sensor, and then reads what it gets back after that goes through the resistor. It will be easier to read ohms, like I said around 2500 at room temp and falling off fairly quickly as it heats up, but I don't know what the curve is.

Note that through 2500 ohms, most of the 5 volts will be lost, that's why if you have a failed shorted sensor, the car will start and run cold better if you disconnect the sensor (infinite ohms), then you can reconnect it once the car warms up. Of course replacing it is better, but I kept an Audi runing this way for a couple months. I just jumped out at a red light after the car started to warm up, and connected the sensor.

snowjob · Post by **snowjob** » Tue Aug 02, 2005 3:10 pm

The coolant sensor is pretty cheap new, like $25 or so from subaru I think. It is a biatch to get out though, just be paitent. you have to remove the AWIC and then all the associated plumbing from the turbo to the intercooler. Their are two breather lines that need to be pulled out and then you will have access to it. I was able to wedge my hand in their to press the connector to release it, but had to use a long handle screw driver threaded from the front of the engine to push it off. Once that's off just get a wrench and undo it. put the new one in and get a set of long nosed locking pliers and hook it back up. Reverse the removal process and voila. Of course all of this is a brease with the turbo removed. you can simply just pull the plug unscrew it and put the new one in.
HOpe this helps.

Frazer

dzx · Post by **dzx** » Tue Aug 02, 2005 10:25 pm

I wish i thought 25 dollars was cheap. j/k. I replaced mine recently after it stopped working. I was lucky because i was changing the intake manifold anyway, that made things a lot more convenient.

ej22t · Post by **ej22t** » Tue Aug 02, 2005 11:11 pm

Thanks for all the input and info.
Frazer, and Professor, I already did the replace from my old engine, and I don't have chance to start the car since I broke one of the hose that nearby the senser.... lucky that just an air tube so I could replace any kind of tube or make myself an oil catch can.....!!
I also replaced the knock senser and hope it all help.
One more question... I checked all the senser that connect to the ECU harness that refer by the Hance manual, all of the wires are have signal feedback from the senser to the harness. just one wire that I don't have any feedback. Its C11 , it should be a all time ground wire but I don't get any ground signal. Does it is the wire that make the problem of the boost?
Thanks for your reply.

Ben

snowjob · Post by **snowjob** » Wed Aug 03, 2005 12:12 am

Check out this, it's for the JDM ej20G engine. The wiring is down by the bottom.
http://www.driftquebec.com/legacy/1992_legacy.pdf

snowjob · Post by **snowjob** » Wed Aug 03, 2005 12:44 am

O wait, are you running a hitachi Maf sensor?? the JDM sensor is a Jegs, you'll need a Jegs Maf in order for it to work right. I had the same problem running the JDM ECU.
I just thought of that. It may help.

ej22t · Post by **ej22t** » Wed Aug 03, 2005 12:52 am

I don't run with the JDM ECU since it will gives me more problem, so I runs in US ECU with the JDM engine...

Ben

ej22t · Post by **ej22t** » Thu Aug 04, 2005 2:09 am

Just an update, after replaced the knock sensor and Engine Coolant temp sensor and check all the wire connection to the ECU it seems everything goes connected and the only non-ground wire C11, I just ground it by jam wire.
But the car still running like sh!t.... it still shows the remain trouble codes 22,32,35,45....it starts no problem but when you step on gas padle you will hear and feel the car is like the idel will drop a bit but then back to normal , sometime when you step deep on the gas, it goes like will stall but it will back to normal.......
When driving on the street is no problem but it seems like driving an no turbo boost --turbo car. Everytime when the car warm up and when I hit the gas paddle to about 0.20 kg/cm2 it will chocking and cutting the engine. But if you driving smoothly and under 0.20 kg/cm2, it runs no problem.

What other things should I check??? I am so exhaust now I know the engine is good and the turbo runs great but the car holds my boost....... Help help help......

Ben

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Some problem after engine swap.... help.

Some problem after engine swap.... help.