How do you read ECU pin outs?

Redlined · Post by **Redlined** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 5:52 am

Im sure this has been covered a hundred times. please bear with me.

Worked graveyard last night. Long night full of stress.

Got of work. started car. put in reverese Car moved 5-7 feet and engine died. 6AM on a sunday.

Turns over. sparkplugs spark. Fuel in tank(just put $5 in it though it was dry as a bone when I pulled into the gasstaion 30foot from where I work). airfilter is new (2k miles).

ran perfect until the moment the engine died. I spent 2 hours running all over vancouver trying to find an open parts store or fredmeyer, target, Wallmart that sold Chiltons manuels and came up dry.

scanned the popular sticky thread list and saw nothing that seemed appropriate, so here we are.

How do I get the engine to tell me what is wrong with it? Will I need special tools beyond basic hand tools and a Circuit tester?

HEELLPP!

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 8:25 am

Have you checked to make sure the fuel pump is working? When you turn the ignition to ON (without starting the car), you should hear the pump run for a couple of seconds. And if you connect the green test-mode connectors under the dash and have the ignition in ON, the pump should cycle on and off every second or so. It may be easier to hear if you listen in the trunk, perhaps with the carpet peeled back.

Running dry -- or nearly dry -- is hard on a fuel pump, so it's possible yours just called it quits.

Josh is hosting an archive of the equivalent of the Chilton's manual for our cars:

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... u_Manuals/

Though the factory service manuals are better:

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... ectrical)/

Redlined · Post by **Redlined** » Thu Aug 25, 2005 4:27 am

makes sence and ill check it out asap.

working graveyard and covering for a coworker thats on vacation, without a car it takes an hour to get to work so will have to wait till my next day off (friday).

Thanks for the imput!

Redlined · Post by **Redlined** » Fri Sep 02, 2005 9:02 pm

got called in on my day off so took an extra week, old fuel pump was just making a high pitched whine when the ignition was turned on so I replaced it with a Bosch Premium Lifetime warrenty rig.

and... nothing.

Engine ACTS like it wants to start but just wont run. (previously just turned over).

So towed her home.

Any other suggestions? Real tired of not getting to spend $3 a gallon, ok not realy but I do want to drive my car again.

scuzzy · Post by **scuzzy** » Sat Sep 03, 2005 5:50 pm

well the high pitched whine is normal.

fuel filter could be clogged.

are you getting any check engine codes? best check them next.

scuzzy · Post by **scuzzy** » Sat Sep 03, 2005 5:51 pm

oh and you could have jumped timing enough to where that's how it would run.

Redlined · Post by **Redlined** » Sun Sep 04, 2005 2:47 pm

How do I check the engine codes? This is my first Subaru built after 1975.

Post by **Legacy777** » Sun Sep 04, 2005 3:57 pm

I have instructions on how to check the engine codes on my site under notes & tips, engine related.

Redlined · Post by **Redlined** » Mon Sep 05, 2005 5:28 pm

ok. pulled the "tray" connected the black single wire male connector to the black single wire female connector. they hit it off very well and I figure they will be seing more of eachother in the future.

after seeing our happy couple off I turned my key to "on" and the check engine light started flashing... on off in about a 1 second cycle (that being on once off once each second) and continued at the same pace until I turned off the key (about 30 seconds) turned key back on and light flashed same cycle, I gave up after about 15 seconds.

Pulled the Timing cover off the passenger side head and spun the crank to TDC#1(at the 0% mark on the case) and the cam mark appeared to be about 10% off....

so.

how big a job is a timing belt change? afternoon job? suggestions on quality timing belts? am I going to end up pulling the main pully and does it require a special puller?

Post by **Legacy777** » Mon Sep 05, 2005 10:04 pm

Manarius · Post by **Manarius** » Mon Sep 05, 2005 10:11 pm

Not to go off topic..but you did that job while the engine was still in the car, Josh? Wow. Tristan said I should pull it to do that job.

Post by **Legacy777** » Mon Sep 05, 2005 10:17 pm

Yes I did the timing belt with the engine still in the car.

Tristan said you should pull the engine to do the timing belt? There's no reason to do that.

Manarius · Post by **Manarius** » Mon Sep 05, 2005 10:44 pm

Legacy777 wrote:Tristan said you should pull the engine to do the timing belt? There's no reason to do that.

Tristan also said I should pull the engine...for fun.

Redlined · Post by **Redlined** » Tue Sep 06, 2005 3:15 am

so I have to remove the radiater, belts, crank pully and timing coveres to verify cam timing is correct? O.O

well... at least it doesnt appear TO bad from the pictures. though im gonna have to bye a socket for the main pully's bolt.

Post by **Legacy777** » Wed Sep 07, 2005 3:47 am

Yeah......you got everything.

Redlined · Post by **Redlined** » Wed Sep 07, 2005 4:59 pm

Anyone know off hand what the size of the bolt for the main pully is? (since im gonna be buying a socket)

Post by **Legacy777** » Thu Sep 08, 2005 4:23 am

pretty sure it's 22mm

Redlined · Post by **Redlined** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 7:03 pm

oh yeah, Josh, You where dead on with the 22mm socket.

Thanks again!

Post by **Legacy777** » Thu Sep 15, 2005 3:17 am

welcome

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How do you read ECU pin outs?

How do you read ECU pin outs?