Getting ready to start the tear down, suggestions?+ question

Heads, valves, pistons, rods, crankshaft, etc...

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legacy92ej22t
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Getting ready to start the tear down, suggestions?+ question

Post by legacy92ej22t »

I'm going to start tearing down my OEM EJ22T engine and thought I'd ask if anyone has any advice and/or suggestions I should know about? Is there a certain order for loosening the intake manifold bolts? I know there is a certain order for the headbolts but besides that is there any? TIA.
Last edited by legacy92ej22t on Wed Oct 19, 2005 2:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
-Matt

'92 SS 5mt. All go and no show. Sold :(
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Oh... and I hope the fucker get bunked with Gunter, arrested for raping Gorillas.[/quote]
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Post by Matt Monson »

Get a service manual. There is a certain order for a lot of different things, like the water pump bolts, for example. And soak the crap out of the oil seperator plate screws. They stick and can easily strip...
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Post by legacy92ej22t »

Hmm, I can't afford FSM's right now and I don't want to trust my haynes.

I guess I'll just have to ask lots of questions or wait, doesn't Josh or somebody have the FSMs scanned onto a webpage?
-Matt

'92 SS 5mt. All go and no show. Sold :(
'94 Audi UrS4 Modded (new project)
'96 Outback 5mt.
'07 Legacy 2.5i SE

[quote="Redlined"]
Oh... and I hope the fucker get bunked with Gunter, arrested for raping Gorillas.[/quote]
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Post by gt2.5turbo »

yup just search for them on the board and then download. They are very useful and pretty easy to navigate
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Post by Matt Monson »

Yep,
They are here. And the Haynes is pretty good for these cars, but I am not fond of the Chilton's for them...
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Post by THAWA »

Use a basic outside-in patern for loosening any bolts in a squarish pattern, and an alternating pattern for any bolts in a circle pattern. There's nothing that really matters which single bolt you start with, as long as you loosen it equally. The sequence is just there so FHI can cover their asses.

Headbolts for instance:
1 5 3
4 6 2
Is the correct sequence, but you could go
4 6 2
1 5 3
or
3 5 1
2 6 4

Or any other order that releases the torque in an equal pattern.

Also an Engine service manual is like 20 bucks. Section 2 is what you want. Actually, headbolts are one of the few bolts/nuts that have a specified sequence. All the rest there is no official sequence, just the basic outside-in for loosening, and inside-out for tightening. Only exception is the rocker arm bolts, they're just the opposite. inside-out for loosening, outside-in for tightening.
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Post by Tleg93 »

If you can, post pics of the stages as you tear it down. It'd be nice to see what the underlying issue was. Good luck!
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Post by 206er »

my haynes is pretty good for bolt loosening sequences torques and stuff but the online FSMs are definitely the best.
have a whole section of floor, workbench or table that you can take the engine apart on to keep it nice and organized. baggy bolt sets and label them. I did these and it was a big help in keeping track of stuff. also take pictures of stuff on the engine before you unbolt it, you will thank yourself. I wish I had done that.
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Post by Tleg93 »

baggy bolt sets and label them. I did these and it was a big help in keeping track of stuff. also take pictures of stuff on the engine before you unbolt it, you will thank yourself. I wish I had done that.
Yeah, no doubt, that would really help with remembering things. Little video clips for yourself with audio would be nice too.
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Post by Legacy777 »

I just started tearing stuff down when I did my motor. As for a FSM. D/l the PDF I've got in the stuff you need to know forum, take it to work or kinkos and print it out front and back, 3-hole punch it, and stick it in a binder.
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Post by legacy92ej22t »

That's a good idea Josh. =)



I got a bit done today but not as much as I hoped. I kinda got to a late start and I also had to have one eye on the kiddies, one eye on my work.

I got the intake manilfold, exhaust manifold, coolant bridge, crank pulley, alternator, alterantor bracket and ps pump bracket removed. I didn't get to crack the heads though, unfortunately, so I still don't know how bad it is in #4.

Getting the crank pulley off was fun. I had swapped my oem flywheel over to the bj engine and hadn't reinstalled the bj flywheel to the bad motor before putting it on the stand. So, I had to take one of the support brackets off on the engine and then work the flywheel into position, so I could pop the crank pulley bolt. It really wasn't too bad but I was pressed for time and it set me back.

Then I couldn't get the heatshield off the 2-4 manifold and I had to try and pry it off until my neighbor finally came home and I was able to borrow his grinder. Thanks Jason. =)

I took some pics if anyone is interested.

http://www.thawa.net/gallery/album138
-Matt

'92 SS 5mt. All go and no show. Sold :(
'94 Audi UrS4 Modded (new project)
'96 Outback 5mt.
'07 Legacy 2.5i SE

[quote="Redlined"]
Oh... and I hope the fucker get bunked with Gunter, arrested for raping Gorillas.[/quote]
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Post by Legacy777 »

gotta love the blue masking tape :)
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legacy92ej22t
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Post by legacy92ej22t »

Hehehe, it adds flavor. Wuz up cuz?

Hey, are the headbolts standard 12 pt-14mm or are you supposed to use a special socket?
-Matt

'92 SS 5mt. All go and no show. Sold :(
'94 Audi UrS4 Modded (new project)
'96 Outback 5mt.
'07 Legacy 2.5i SE

[quote="Redlined"]
Oh... and I hope the fucker get bunked with Gunter, arrested for raping Gorillas.[/quote]
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Post by douglas vincent »

Yeah, they are the start pattern bolts.

You are going to most likely need a REALLY long breaker bar to bust them free. I have used an 8' section of tubing on my 1/2" breaker bar to bust mine free on all my "old" motor rebuilds.
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Post by legacy92ej22t »

douglas vincent wrote:Yeah, they are the start pattern bolts.

You are going to most likely need a REALLY long breaker bar to bust them free. I have used an 8' section of tubing on my 1/2" breaker bar to bust mine free on all my "old" motor rebuilds.
Start pattern bolt? So does that mean it's the 12 pt socket or not?

They're really that tough? Wow. I hope mine come off easier then that.
-Matt

'92 SS 5mt. All go and no show. Sold :(
'94 Audi UrS4 Modded (new project)
'96 Outback 5mt.
'07 Legacy 2.5i SE

[quote="Redlined"]
Oh... and I hope the fucker get bunked with Gunter, arrested for raping Gorillas.[/quote]
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Post by 93forestpearl »

Std. 12-pt works fine. I was able bust mine loose with just the breaker bar, and my motor wasn't on a stand. My hand hand was pretty bruised though after whacking the breaker bar.
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Post by Tleg93 »

Nice pics. I'd like to also do this to my 91. It'd be nice to see it.


Are you putting in stronger internal or just repairing or what?
--Scott--

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Post by legacy92ej22t »

Thanks Dan.

Scott- I'm probably going to build it up. Maybe go with a slight overbore and forged pistons. I was going to try to source some EJ20G heads but I might just go with the Delta cams and a 3 or 4 angle valve job now. Maybe a little P&P on the heads too. I can always get the EJ20G heads later if I'm not satisfied. I'm also going to do 92-94 NA rails with STI injectors and some type of EM, maybe PP6 or something similar. I'd like to just go with the TEC-III but I don't think I'll have the money to go that route.

I'm still up in the air about what all I want to do, especially with the heads. I figure I should pretty much rebuild the valvetrain too, since the heads will be out and dissassembled, so I can send the cams out to Delta.

We'll see, I'm probably going to just take my time and really try and do things right.

Man, I finally got my engine down into the basement last night and boy, I'm all banged up. Bruised right shoulder, bruised chest, fucked up my heel somehow (feels like my heel bone is fractured) and my wrists are soar as all hell. At least it's down there though and now I have a dry, warm enviroment to work in.
-Matt

'92 SS 5mt. All go and no show. Sold :(
'94 Audi UrS4 Modded (new project)
'96 Outback 5mt.
'07 Legacy 2.5i SE

[quote="Redlined"]
Oh... and I hope the fucker get bunked with Gunter, arrested for raping Gorillas.[/quote]
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Post by Tleg93 »

How the hell did you get your engine down there is what I want to know.
--Scott--

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Post by legacy92ej22t »

Vewy carefowee Scottison.

Na, actually I used my superior Jedi skillz to float it down. Yoda (Jen) was making me do it while in a hand stand (she's like a nazi when it comes to keeping my skillz sharp :roll: ) and I fell down the stairs about half way down (the engine stayed up though, yes, I'm that good), which is why I'm so banged up. Using the force to transport something while in a handstand and then go down stair to boot?! Hell, I'm lucky I didn't screw myself up worse.
-Matt

'92 SS 5mt. All go and no show. Sold :(
'94 Audi UrS4 Modded (new project)
'96 Outback 5mt.
'07 Legacy 2.5i SE

[quote="Redlined"]
Oh... and I hope the fucker get bunked with Gunter, arrested for raping Gorillas.[/quote]
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Post by Tleg93 »

Aw c'mon, how'd ya do it? Did you do it in a truck? Did you do it just with luck? Or did you grease up a couple of baking dishes with Pam and just slide it in...er down I mean.
--Scott--

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Post by legacy92ej22t »

A good magician never tells! :smt110


But, since I'm not a good magician I guess I'll tell. I used my superior Jedi skillz to flo......hehe.

No, really, I pushed the engine over to my house about a month back. I just left it on the stand and pushed it down the street. It was only a few blocks to my house from the garage I was using (you know the one Scott). It was pretty funny because with the metal wheels it was loud as hell. Some guy was out in front of his house and he said something like "hey, that's one hell of a loud motor you got there!" and I reponded "yeah, I think I might have spun a bearing or something"....you had to be there I guess but we both had a pretty good laugh.

It was in my carport, the engine, since then. I stripped most of the stuff off it and then with it still on the stand I man handled it down the stairs. I had to take the basement door off to get it through the door and then I pretty much put the engine on my shoulder and chest and went backwards down the steps while supporting all the weight. Mark Kennedy helped me but really he just had a hold of the front of the engine stand to make sure it didn't flip over and take me out. We thought he'd be able to help with the weight but he couldn't because he had no leverage at all.

Now it's down there and I'm probably going to crack the heads tonight. I'm nervous/excited to see what actully let go in #4 and how bad the damage really is. I'm really hoping there isn't damage to the cylinder wall.

I'll take pics.
-Matt

'92 SS 5mt. All go and no show. Sold :(
'94 Audi UrS4 Modded (new project)
'96 Outback 5mt.
'07 Legacy 2.5i SE

[quote="Redlined"]
Oh... and I hope the fucker get bunked with Gunter, arrested for raping Gorillas.[/quote]
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Post by corsair »

legacy92ej22t wrote: Some guy was out in front of his house and he said something like "hey, that's one hell of a loud motor you got there!" and I reponded "yeah, I think I might have spun a bearing or something"

:lol:

Where are you getting the head work done Matt? I guess up in a "big city" :P like Williamsport there must be some place that'll do the work. You better post those pics when you take 'em.
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Post by BAC5.2 »

Matt - I'd suggest looking around a bit for head options before dumping all that money on head work. We had some head work done on a Honda head at the shop, and it was something like $1050 for the work. Maybe swap to Phase 2 EJ25 heads or something.

I wonder how hot Delta could regrind our cams to.
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