Legacy777 wrote:Yeah, just rebuilding it to stock specs. Nothing fancy for internals.
As if the stock internals need any upgrading
Legacy777 wrote:Michael.....yeah I'd say the bolts stretch. The reason I ask is the FSM doesn't specifically say to replace them
From what I understand, the weird-ass head bolt torqueing procedure that these engines have is essentially to stretch the new bolts out as you overtorque them, then to release them and torque them to spec. Can anyone confirm that?
I'd say definitely get new ones, or possibly risk blowing the new HG's when you start using the motor.
I think I've also heard that the DOHC EJ25's blow them so much because the head bolts might not have been torqued correctly at the factory...
"Der Wahnsinn ist nur eine schmale Brücke/die Ufer sind Vernunft und Trieb"
Personally I think getting new head bolts is not needed. I have reused mine THREE TIMES, all times on the NA block that got boosted and while I didnt rack up a huge amount of miles before I broke my pistons, I definately tested the waters pretty thouroughly and had nary a headgasket problem.
I might of even overtorqued them, as I don't own a torque wrench, but go by feel. Not even close to scientific, but I have NEVER had a head gasket problem.
Reddevil, Awaiting new heart, will it ever happen?
1990 wagon, EJ25 12.3 @ 116.5 FAST Family wagon getting new motor soon
1992 wagon, wifes daily, high compression
1992 Touring wagon, should I keep it?
I know this is an old thread...but perhaps you guys can help me. I am trying to replace the oil pan in my '94 SS...any trick to getting at the bolts at the rear of the pan?
The motor has to go WAY up. I would remove both axles fron the tranny, unbolt the exhaust and motor mounts and jack it up. Sorry.
Reddevil, Awaiting new heart, will it ever happen?
1990 wagon, EJ25 12.3 @ 116.5 FAST Family wagon getting new motor soon
1992 wagon, wifes daily, high compression
1992 Touring wagon, should I keep it?
holy crap! ...actually, i managed to get to the bolts with a joint...I think I am gonna have to take off the header though to take the pan out. We'll see how trying to get the bolts back in goes.
You will probably have to jack the engine up slightly. Remove the the nuts holding the engine mounts to the crossmember and jack the engine up with a block between the jack and the oil pan.
Then stick another 2x4 block in between the crossmember and engine/trans to keep it at that elevated spot.
