Very unhappy, electrical problem continues...

corsair · Post by **corsair** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 4:42 am

After spending the money on a new head unit after W&L diagnosed my electrical problem as a faulty door switch and failed to actually fix the problem, I'm back at square 1.

This agitates me more than WhiteLeg's eyeball burner thread!

Here's the problem...

(2 stereos, 2 wiring harnesses (for the stereos) and hours of wasted time later)

Stereo turns on with the car, works fine for a few minutes, then turns off, cycles on and off. When dome or map lights are activated this will start the on-off cycle OR will exaserbate the problem if it has already started occuring.

This cycle happens whether the car is running, just at the 'on' poisition, or on ACC.

It happens if the doors are open or closed, if the lights are on or off, etc...

I can only think that the 12V from the battery or ignition is corroded somewhere or something, I don't think I have enough experiance to diagnose the problem.

Remember: the dealer thought they fixed it when they replaced a door switch?

Anyone? Vikash? Mike? Help? Please...

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 6:05 am

Hrm. I need to take a look through the wiring diagrams to see if there's some connection in there...

So these are two completely different stereos that you've tried?

Can you plug something into the cigarette lighter and see whether it cycles on and off with the stereo or not?

Bheinen74 · Post by **Bheinen74** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 6:26 am

2 stereos wired so they both work, easily could overload the factory wiring harnesses. you better disonnect one of them completely before your car goes up in a electrical fire-ball.

btw, since yours is winestone, i call dibs on some body parts after your interior fire happens. jk

Binford · Post by **Binford** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 6:33 am

I don't think both stereos are hooked up at the same time. It sounds like a power issue though. can you run a temperay wire to the battery for 12v and see if the problem remains?

corsair · Post by **corsair** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 1:54 pm

Vikash- I'll try my cell phone charger this morning.

Binford- I thought about running the 12V in, I need to make sure I'm being safe about that though, take precautions and stuff.

They're two different stereos (JVC basic model and a nicer Alpine) and both do the same thing, I did the wiring on the new one and checked the wiring on the old one which was installed by Circuit City (Matt's store coincidentially)

Thanks guys, I'll get back to you.

Bheinen74 · Post by **Bheinen74** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 5:53 pm

is your battery fully charged? radios will cycle on and off if they arent getting 11.2 volts constant.

corsair · Post by **corsair** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 7:57 pm

I'll probably run a lead from the interior fuse box as I think there are ignition switched fused circuits that aren't used. Interesting thing happened this morning, the stereo was working fine. Then I had to give a friend a ride from a garage back to the school because he was bringing his car in for something. His sister opened the RIGHT REAR door and the radio turned off and then on again. When he got in the RIGHT FRONT door that didn't happen! But whenever I turn on the map lights and the radio is running the problem doesn't seem to happen.

I also noticed that sometimes with the old stereo if I cranked the volume too high it'd start the on-off cycle again.

Phil said it might be a bad alternator in my older thread and I somehow am beginning to think that. Because wouldn't my battery be charged just fine from normal driving IF my alternator were working properly?

Oh Vikash, my charger's light stayed on constantly this morning although I don't think my phone needed to be charged.

I have to do work now, sorry for the rushed post.

Bheinen74 · Post by **Bheinen74** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 8:05 pm

your battery sounds like it could be dead. when you crank the radio volume, it requires more power, and if your battery doesnt have 12 volts, it will cut the radio out like it is doing.
A battery can be had new for around 60 dollars. when is the last time it was replaced? batteries usually last about 4-5 years.

Binford · Post by **Binford** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 8:15 pm

Sounds like you may have a shorted speaker lead. It's hard to diagnose over the internet, but I'd try a fresh 12v and double check the ground first. A bad ground may cuase the same thing. It would be a good idea to have a fuse inline if you ran a new 12v.

corsair · Post by **corsair** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 9:37 pm

Ok more stuff, when I opened my door today while the car was running it cut off. I played with the door switch, when I held it down the stereo would play, when I removed my hand it'd cycle off and on.

The right front door was replaced this summer with one off another car and I thought I replaced the wiring as well.

When I crank the volume it shorts, I kept the trans in 3rd while driving (revs around 3-3.2k) and the volume would go higher than it would a few minutes (and 1 song on my iPod) earlier at lower RPMs.

I'll see about replacing the battery, it is kinda old. If I run that 12V I will fuse it in line, but how do you recommend I check the ground?

Would a bad ground cause more of a shock when I grasp the handle of my door when the car is running? I've noticed this recently but it could just be extra static from the cold/dry winter climate.

I feel like I should try to connect a voltmeter somewhere and try to see if I'm getting 12V or not.

Binford · Post by **Binford** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 3:20 am

Using a voltmeter is your best bet. Make sure you have 12v (or more

), and check the resistance between your ground wire and a good chassis ground (in the kick panel, for instance).

Does your dome light turn on with your door? This is tied in with the radio (I think, most cars are), so you'd be pulling more power, resulting in it cutting out if underpowered.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 6:55 am

Most decent decks shut off their amplifiers when a speaker output is shorted, but don't shut off entirely.

I agree that making some measurements is a good place to start. When the problem appears, what's the voltage between the radio's power supply and ground terminals like?

The dome light isn't tied in with the radio any more than any other system in the car.

But you can definitely try some things out, one at a time, like:

- Disconnect the speaker leads at the back of the stereo.
- Add a ground wire to the chassis of the stereo.
- Disconnect the antenna from the stereo.

free5ty1e · Post by **free5ty1e** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 3:14 pm

Seems to me like you've got a power situation - alternator or battery, either could be the culprit. When you turn up the volume and more current is requested than is available at 12v, the overall electrical system voltage will drop below usable levels, causing oscillations like you're seeing.

The fact that your doors and dome lights can affect it further testifies to this assumption; when the door is opened, the dash will notify you with it's door lights -- which apparently can be enough sometimes to drop your voltage below the usable threshold. Same with the dome lights.

Check your battery with a voltmeter with the car off, and then again with your car running.

corsair · Post by **corsair** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 4:52 am

well the winner would probably be the battery, after driving for a while the stereo was fine at all volume levels... I think I'll drop the money on a good battery and call it a day

I also replaced my headlights with nice hellas and took some rubbing compound to the lenses and everything is nice and pretty, next comes the upgraded headlight wiring ala Vikash.

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Very unhappy, electrical problem continues...

Very unhappy, electrical problem continues...