Help me troubleshoot. Weak spark vs Rich condition.

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my3awds
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Help me troubleshoot. Weak spark vs Rich condition.

Post by my3awds »

**EDIT: This problem has progressed into this and I don't feel like starting a new thread. Anywhere, here is a better description of whats going on now**

I have a 1.8 that was working perfectly fine until I did the ej22t swap. Earlier, I was having a hard time starting the car. Checked for arcing on a plug and it was SUPER weak if any at all. Randomly the car would get a strong enough spark to turn the car over, but once you shut her off, it had the same problem in getting a strong spark. So I did a ghetto grounding kit, and for some reason, now the car has no problem starting. No CELs. Now to the current issue:

Before the car reaches operating temps, the car sounds and feels like it drives ok, but it seems a bit rich. Smells of gas. At idle, stepping on the gas pedal to the floor causes the rpms to bog before it climbs rpms.

After the car reaches operating temps, the car really feels like its not getting enough combustions, feels also like misfires here and there. Giving it more throttle helps a small bit, but it's still hickups. Idle becomes low (500rpms) Pulling the spark plugs shows that they are covered in black soot.

SOOO, how can I determin if it's a weak spark vs. running rich? I'm not good with a multimeter so if theres a way to check from the ecu or harness end of the coil/power transistor, please enlighten me. Heres what I've tested as instructed by others:

Coil (swapped 2 out)
Plug wires (15k ohms)
Spark plugs (soot black after driving around)
ECU (swapped 2 out)
Battery & Alternator (13.79v constant at idle)

If I can at least verify I'm getting the proper spark, I can move onto diagnosing other things. This is frustrating me enough to want to rewire all of the powertransistor and coil wires from harness directly to the ecu.
Last edited by my3awds on Wed May 10, 2006 7:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Legacy777
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Post by Legacy777 »

I just don't see how you kept the stock ej18 injectors and are running the ej22t turbo setup.

Have you checked to see if any codes are stored in the ECU?
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my3awds
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Post by my3awds »

Well the thing is, I am not trying to run it at WOT or open loop. I just want to daily drive it til I get LINK+. And with stock ej18 injectors, it theoretically should run LEAN on a bigger displaced motor at idle. I know it's possible too because bmxchad and nato ran this setup on their imprezas over on RS25. They have no idea what's going on either.

Anyway, No, I haven't checked for codes stored in the ecu because I havent found a manual that explains how to do it on a 1.8 ECU. Putting my ECU in a friends 1.8 showed that it worked perfectly fine.

It has to be either a weak spark or it's running rich perhaps due to too little timing. I'm leaning more towards a weak spark, but I am not sure how to thoroughly diagnose it. I updated the expliation of whats going on in my original post. Hope I get some more ideas.
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Post by bmxpunk »

I wouldnt say weak timing man. My 22t blew the ringlands out of 2 pistons because that dang 1.8 ecu has so much timing advance. I didnt believe others when they told me.

So like a dumbass with my PP, i advanced timing 1 degree up to about 2500rpm while under low load(vaccum) then is started to retard it after 2500rpm and above atmoshere to redline up to -4/-5 degrees. still not eough apparently.
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my3awds
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Post by my3awds »

Damn. I remember you telling me about the 2 pistons. Well I know its not a weak spark anymore. I hooked the 12v wire directly from the coil to the battery and it still runs the same. So for sure it is an air:fuel issue. Like you said, it probably has too little timing at closed loop, then hella advance at open loop. Runs fine until operating temps though, then it bucks once she is warmed up.

I just checked my o2v's at the ecu with a digital (not analog) multimeter. At idle at operating temps, it looks like it stays at .58v and does not ocolate like its suppose to. I was thinking maybe since this is not an analog multimeter, I can't see it ocolate. I'm going to replace it today anyway.

Thanks for the insight.
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Post by bmxpunk »

Is your 02 sensor new/good? I had that problem twice with mine
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Post by my3awds »

It's pretty old actually. I wish there was a better way of telling other then the way I measured it. I'm buying a new Kragen-special today. We'll see if that does anything :(
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Post by bmxpunk »

reread your first post and it sounds similar to mine when one of the wires broke
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Post by Bheinen74 »

the symtoms your car has, running rich, bucking, cutting out after warmed up, sounds ike the same symptoms i had when my timing belt wasn't right. It was off the marks, so i relined the timing belt, and that fixed everything.
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my3awds
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Post by my3awds »

Well the last I checked, the two cam gear timing marks go to their perspective marks on the rear cover. Perhaps the center crank timing is off? I suppose it's not that hard to double check today.

As for the spark plug**edit: o2 sensor**...$151 at the dealership??? Can I just run the generic brand at autozone for 50?
Last edited by my3awds on Thu May 11, 2006 9:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Splinter »

???

Spark plugs shouldnt cost more than $12
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my3awds
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Post by my3awds »

Man I'm tired haha. O2 sensor....
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Post by dzx »

Yes you can run a generic one from autozone, I have the generic Bosch. Follow the instructions on the install kit and its easy. Dealerships always want to give it to you with little to no vaseline.

Nice GSX btw.
///M
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my3awds
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Post by my3awds »

Thanks Dan. Yeah, stealership indeed. Bought a new set of NGK sparks just to be safe. I hate buying repair parts during lunch time at work. You think about it the rest of your work period and get little-to-nothing done. But I agree with you guys, its definetly either the o2 sensor or my timing. I have nothing else left to check! I even tried pulling codes and the ecu light just constantly blinked steadily at me, sort of mocking me. Well, better nothing wrong then something major I guess.
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Post by dzx »

If you know someone with a wideband O2 sensor you could hook it up and see what condition your a/f is in.
///M
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my3awds
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Post by my3awds »

Bheinen74, you are the MAN. Thank you for your suggestion, it's a good thing I checked. Not only was it 2 teeth off, but the tensioner pully was EATING AWAY AT THE CRANK GEAR! Apparently the auto tensioner was set to far forward or the poor car-shaking idle pushed the gear out and was making contact with the pully. I can't thank you guys enough.

Just wanted to crossrefrence this post with the other just in case someone is searching on a similar problem they may have.

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=26768
Subaru Impreza Ver6 replica with Ver4 Type R motorset.

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