EJ25 Crank in a N/A EJ22?

Heads, valves, pistons, rods, crankshaft, etc...

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voodoochylde
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EJ25 Crank in a N/A EJ22?

Post by voodoochylde »

I've got a blown headgasket in my 1990 Legacy N/A AWD so while it's apart, I'm going to redo everything I can - rings, bearings, seals, etc.

I'm also considering some power mods - I'm awaiting an email from Delta Cams and I'm curious about the mythical EJ22 Stroker (2.35L) using a standard EJ22E block and an EJ25 crank.

Has anyone done this? I've searched and can't find much helpful info - just tidbits here and there.

What needs to be done?

Also, anyone else have suggestions for better flowing heads without reducing compression ratio? I don't want to go forced induction...

Cost is a high priority but ideas are great all the same...
NuclearBacon
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Post by NuclearBacon »

i would also like to know. This sounds bad@$$
-Luigi-
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555BCTurbo
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Post by 555BCTurbo »

You need special pistons for the 2.35...which are available from Wiseco
Nick

1987 Audi 4000CS quattro...soon to be 20VT
1994 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 CTD, #11 plate, 30 psi, Scotty II intake, 4" exhaust
voodoochylde
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Post by voodoochylde »

555BCTurbo wrote:You need special pistons for the 2.35...which are available from Wiseco
Thanks for the information - I suspected as such...kinda figured stroking the engine would allow the pistons to interfere with the valves' operation.

Any idea if any bearings involved need to be swapped? What about connecting rods? I assume I can just use the ones I've got...?

Thanks again.
555BCTurbo
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Post by 555BCTurbo »

There is some special recipe for which phases of 2.5 parts you need for the swap...and I know it is on here, so some prudent searching would probably answer your questions...
Nick

1987 Audi 4000CS quattro...soon to be 20VT
1994 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 CTD, #11 plate, 30 psi, Scotty II intake, 4" exhaust
mr soul
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Post by mr soul »

I think you are looking at this a little wrong. The whole point of the stroker build you ask about is to get more displacment from the famed closed deck EJ22t block. This is the largest closed deck block Subaru produced so it was natural that aftermarket folks wanted to squeeze some more displacement out of this uber strong block.

The recipe, just to answer is you get a phase 1 2.5 crank and rods and mate them with the special Wiseco piston for this build. This crank has a 4mm longer throw which is taken out of the special piston size. That way you get to increase the stroke, while not interfering with valves as you put it.

Since your block is not closed deck, and for a NA car....if you want more displacment get a 2.5 NA block. This will be the easiest way for you to get more displacement in your project. If you are simply set on doing your own rebuild...yes, you need to replace all bearings...or at least I recommend you do.

I've done a few of these stroker builds so feel free to PM me or respond with any more questions.

Good luck on your project :D
Retired but still rocking a 98 Coupe with the heart of a turbo legacy :)
voodoochylde
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Post by voodoochylde »

You'd be right in assuming I was looking at this wrong. Stupid question from another newb :D Sorry...

A 2.5L transplant would be awesome but I dunno if I have the skill to get one to run...assuming I could get one for less than 600 bucks or so...

Thanks anyway guys...
mr soul
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Post by mr soul »

We were all newb's at one point....I still am about a lot of stuff :lol:

If you can do headgaskets, you should be able to make the 2.5 run. I think your ecu adapts for this no prob, simply put your car back together like stock substituting the 2.5 block, somebody other than me should tell you what headgasket to use. Then go to town... I think 206er on here has done this and written about it.

Search is your friend for sure....
Retired but still rocking a 98 Coupe with the heart of a turbo legacy :)
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