Unusual boost readings.....
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Unusual boost readings.....
I have been having an issue regarding boost for some time now.
It seems as though whenever I am on boost, the reading my gauge sees flutters very quickly. On my old Prosport mechanical gauge (awesome quality gauge and very accurate), this caused the gauge to rattle something terrible. On my new AEM Tru-Boost gauge/EBC (good gauge/controller with lots of neat features), this causes it to flutter the wastegate open and closed when right at the Spg pressure I have input (it keeps the WG closed until the entered value, then cycles the solenoid at the selected duty cycle).
I have installed an inline restrictor in the line going to the gauge, and it helped a bit, but it still does it. I was running my old Autometer off the line leading to the BPV, then plumbed my Prosport gauge into the brake booster line (when I finally figured out that the BPV line doesn't see true vacuum). When I installed my Tru-Boost, I moved the location to a 'T' (really more like a y with the fitting I used) in the line leading to the factory MAP sensor.
Has anyone else experienced this? It doesn't appear as though this is a common occurrence, since I am sure someone else would have posted a thread about it.
It seems as though whenever I am on boost, the reading my gauge sees flutters very quickly. On my old Prosport mechanical gauge (awesome quality gauge and very accurate), this caused the gauge to rattle something terrible. On my new AEM Tru-Boost gauge/EBC (good gauge/controller with lots of neat features), this causes it to flutter the wastegate open and closed when right at the Spg pressure I have input (it keeps the WG closed until the entered value, then cycles the solenoid at the selected duty cycle).
I have installed an inline restrictor in the line going to the gauge, and it helped a bit, but it still does it. I was running my old Autometer off the line leading to the BPV, then plumbed my Prosport gauge into the brake booster line (when I finally figured out that the BPV line doesn't see true vacuum). When I installed my Tru-Boost, I moved the location to a 'T' (really more like a y with the fitting I used) in the line leading to the factory MAP sensor.
Has anyone else experienced this? It doesn't appear as though this is a common occurrence, since I am sure someone else would have posted a thread about it.
Disclaimer: If anything I post is inaccurate, please correct me. I do not wish to add to the misinformation floating around on the internet.
That being said, everything I post is accurate to the best of my knowledge.
Rio Red '91 Legacy SS
That being said, everything I post is accurate to the best of my knowledge.
Rio Red '91 Legacy SS
Hmmm I have the same AEM boost gauge (awesome gauge/controller BTW) and I don't have that problem.
I installed my boost gauge off of the line that comes off of the intake manifold (that way you get a true boost/vacuum reading).


Try teeing in there, if you haven't already. Hope this helps out.
I installed my boost gauge off of the line that comes off of the intake manifold (that way you get a true boost/vacuum reading).


Try teeing in there, if you haven't already. Hope this helps out.
-Aaron
2000 Audi S4 - 2.7L Twin-turbo, 6 Speed
[quote="evolutionmovement"]It was me. And those are my balls. Happy Sunday![/quote]
2000 Audi S4 - 2.7L Twin-turbo, 6 Speed
[quote="evolutionmovement"]It was me. And those are my balls. Happy Sunday![/quote]
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That is exactly where I have mine teed into right now.
I am running the stock BPV. Maybe it's worn out......
If I could find a WRX stocker with the elbow still attached for a reasonable (cheap) price I would swap for that instead ('cuz it'll bolt right up to my WRX i/c and I no longer have cruise).
I am running the stock BPV. Maybe it's worn out......
If I could find a WRX stocker with the elbow still attached for a reasonable (cheap) price I would swap for that instead ('cuz it'll bolt right up to my WRX i/c and I no longer have cruise).
Disclaimer: If anything I post is inaccurate, please correct me. I do not wish to add to the misinformation floating around on the internet.
That being said, everything I post is accurate to the best of my knowledge.
Rio Red '91 Legacy SS
That being said, everything I post is accurate to the best of my knowledge.
Rio Red '91 Legacy SS
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I wouldn't use that spot for the gauge reference...as it is the line that leads to the MAP sensor...and could potentially mess with it. My gauge is teed off the vacuum reference under the brake booster line on the intake manifold.
My guess is that you have a boost controller problem, as it is most likely causing wastegate flutter, due to an inconsistent signal.
My guess is that you have a boost controller problem, as it is most likely causing wastegate flutter, due to an inconsistent signal.
Nick
1987 Audi 4000CS quattro...soon to be 20VT
1994 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 CTD, #11 plate, 30 psi, Scotty II intake, 4" exhaust
1987 Audi 4000CS quattro...soon to be 20VT
1994 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 CTD, #11 plate, 30 psi, Scotty II intake, 4" exhaust
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But that's the thing.... It does it when running wastegate boost, and while under vacuum as well. Has also done it using 2 different factory boost control solenoids under factory ECU control.
It has done it with 3 different gauges as well.
It has done it with 3 different gauges as well.
Disclaimer: If anything I post is inaccurate, please correct me. I do not wish to add to the misinformation floating around on the internet.
That being said, everything I post is accurate to the best of my knowledge.
Rio Red '91 Legacy SS
That being said, everything I post is accurate to the best of my knowledge.
Rio Red '91 Legacy SS
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It is closing all the way, and still has plenty of tension. I will see what pressure it opens at a bit later, just to be sure.
I am going to try to get my hands on a WRX BPV and see if that does the trick. If not, then I am at a loss.
I am going to try to get my hands on a WRX BPV and see if that does the trick. If not, then I am at a loss.
Disclaimer: If anything I post is inaccurate, please correct me. I do not wish to add to the misinformation floating around on the internet.
That being said, everything I post is accurate to the best of my knowledge.
Rio Red '91 Legacy SS
That being said, everything I post is accurate to the best of my knowledge.
Rio Red '91 Legacy SS
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Probably barely used...
And it's not like they really wear out...
My SS still has its original bypass valve, and it has 216,000 on it.
I have some Bosch ones if you are interested...they work fantastically.
[/end hijack]
And it's not like they really wear out...
My SS still has its original bypass valve, and it has 216,000 on it.
I have some Bosch ones if you are interested...they work fantastically.
[/end hijack]
Nick
1987 Audi 4000CS quattro...soon to be 20VT
1994 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 CTD, #11 plate, 30 psi, Scotty II intake, 4" exhaust
1987 Audi 4000CS quattro...soon to be 20VT
1994 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 CTD, #11 plate, 30 psi, Scotty II intake, 4" exhaust
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I have another OEM one on the way from BB, so I will give that a try and post the results.
Disclaimer: If anything I post is inaccurate, please correct me. I do not wish to add to the misinformation floating around on the internet.
That being said, everything I post is accurate to the best of my knowledge.
Rio Red '91 Legacy SS
That being said, everything I post is accurate to the best of my knowledge.
Rio Red '91 Legacy SS
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