I have my scantool up and working, what should i be lookin for?
I have done Many searches to find the Values and have come up with nothing (Chart please) .
scantool values ?
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scantool values ?
"Hows the transition look?"
91 turbo manual
BMX in the trunk!!!
91 turbo manual
BMX in the trunk!!!
Umm....are you talking about Vikash's scan tool?
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... ct+monitor
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... ct+monitor
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
.2 is lean and .9 is rich.... What is Stoich? how lean can it go b4 damage occurs.
Ok, the O2 signal is reading a steady .9+ while accelerating soft or hard?
Im stumped. Does this mean im a Sh$ty mechanic? Or is the computer making it that way? I need a garage.....
Ok, the O2 signal is reading a steady .9+ while accelerating soft or hard?
Im stumped. Does this mean im a Sh$ty mechanic? Or is the computer making it that way? I need a garage.....
"Hows the transition look?"
91 turbo manual
BMX in the trunk!!!
91 turbo manual
BMX in the trunk!!!
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Do you have a boost guage? The factory ECU enrichens the mixture (excessively IMO) under boost, probably for engine longevity reasons.sublunacy wrote:.2 is lean and .9 is rich.... What is Stoich? how lean can it go b4 damage occurs.
Ok, the O2 signal is reading a steady .9+ while accelerating soft or hard?
Im stumped. Does this mean im a Sh$ty mechanic? Or is the computer making it that way? I need a garage.....
In my car anything over 0psig will max out my stock narrowband O2.
93 legacy wagon L, 22T swapped (TW imitator) now with five forward speeds. (Gone, but never forgotten)
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What are you trying to check for?
If you want to check that the mixture is being adjusted by the ecu then leave it idling and watch the O2 reading, it should constantly fluctuate between about point seven and point three. If it's doing that then the O2 sensor is working. If you want to check the general mixture then take it out on the road and run it with a light throttle and the O2 reading should still fluctuate as before... untill you get to about three-quarter throttle on a non-turbo model, or until the boost comes on in a turbo model, then the O2 should go up near point eight or nine and stay there. The A/F correction figure should go to zero when the boost comes in and the mixture reverts to base tune. If you log the A/F correction you can check that is working by letting the motor idle and then dissconnecting one spark plug coil wire so the mixture has unburnt fuel in it, when you do that there should be a momentary correction in a negative direction, perhaps about negative two or three, which should only last for about a second before the mixture returns to fluctuating from point seven to point three.
There are not really any figures that are correct, what we need to look for are behaviours in response to driving conditions. If you want to check some aspect of the tune then you need to devise a drive routine which will make that aspect change with the least possible other factors changing. So, you might go for a slow drive with a fairly fixed throttle setting starting out cold and repeating the driving conditions until the motor is up to temp, then compare the cold and the hot figures both with similar throttle settings and loads. Label that test temp correction. If you want to check the maximum fuel input then go out with a warm motor and run it up at full throttle from low revs to high revs and keeping it in one gear all the way with no backing off the throttle. Label that test maximum fuel. To make the best use of the data we need to log only the sensors we need and we need to drive to find the result we are hoping to find. Just going out for a drive and logging everything will not really reveal much without a lot of familiarity with that particular car and without a lot of studying of the data. Easier to devise a test for each specific thing and then test one thing at a time.
If you want to check that the mixture is being adjusted by the ecu then leave it idling and watch the O2 reading, it should constantly fluctuate between about point seven and point three. If it's doing that then the O2 sensor is working. If you want to check the general mixture then take it out on the road and run it with a light throttle and the O2 reading should still fluctuate as before... untill you get to about three-quarter throttle on a non-turbo model, or until the boost comes on in a turbo model, then the O2 should go up near point eight or nine and stay there. The A/F correction figure should go to zero when the boost comes in and the mixture reverts to base tune. If you log the A/F correction you can check that is working by letting the motor idle and then dissconnecting one spark plug coil wire so the mixture has unburnt fuel in it, when you do that there should be a momentary correction in a negative direction, perhaps about negative two or three, which should only last for about a second before the mixture returns to fluctuating from point seven to point three.
There are not really any figures that are correct, what we need to look for are behaviours in response to driving conditions. If you want to check some aspect of the tune then you need to devise a drive routine which will make that aspect change with the least possible other factors changing. So, you might go for a slow drive with a fairly fixed throttle setting starting out cold and repeating the driving conditions until the motor is up to temp, then compare the cold and the hot figures both with similar throttle settings and loads. Label that test temp correction. If you want to check the maximum fuel input then go out with a warm motor and run it up at full throttle from low revs to high revs and keeping it in one gear all the way with no backing off the throttle. Label that test maximum fuel. To make the best use of the data we need to log only the sensors we need and we need to drive to find the result we are hoping to find. Just going out for a drive and logging everything will not really reveal much without a lot of familiarity with that particular car and without a lot of studying of the data. Easier to devise a test for each specific thing and then test one thing at a time.