Hi everyone - Nice board to learn about my '93 Legacy L

[Slippers]

I've had good luck with boards in the past and the search function works great.

I work nights up here in Park City grooming ski runs and it can get pretty epic late at night when the plows sit and drink coffee and sleep at the 40 / 80 intersection (its cool guys. I work nights and sleep on the job)

I got here in this 2wd Chevy pickup and its helpless. Especially with the ABS. Needed something FWD / AWD.

That's when I met the 'roo. Abandoned, neglected, uninspected, and without reverse gearing on the 4EAT trans after 195,000 miles.
F.O. told me about how to take out the fuse to shut off the parking lights... ....
.... I thought about it and then I saw the switch on the column.... They were taking out a fuse for *3 years* of ownership...

$290 from Craigslist.

Reverse is symptomatic of a blown seal leading to low line pressure and she *tries* to back up if rolled backwards in "R" at idle. Press the skinny pedal and it quits trying.

Requires creative parking but seems to run well enough for now.

What I've done:

Changed:
- Oil. 40 miles later it is black. Not a little dark... Black.
- Drained and refilled tranny pan. Just as gross but I put in super cheap high mile fluid. Reverse came back for 1 backup after that.
- Changed right front door due to large rust spots.
- Poured 3 quarts of trans fluid into front diff thinking it was the trans. Replaced with 80-90 because I couldn't find 75-90 in town.
- Added coolant because the substance in the radiator was starting to freeze up in single digit temps.

Noted problems:
- Idle is low. If I put it in "N" at a light it quits trying to stall. Also had a hard start one time.
- Smoke from exhaust while accelerating. Seems a bit white / grey and sometimes black. Due to slight coolant loss I suspect a head gasket that might be leaky. Smells like rich mix but not coolant?
- Suspension / Steering component wear
- Calls for 4.8 quarts of oil. I drain the oil while warm and add 4 quarts. Shows low on stick. Add .8 and looks perfect. Now its got 1.5 quarts too much? Drained and rechecked. Looks better. Used oil in snow blower that was in need and needed at the time.

Plan of Action: Pass Utah State Inspection
- Change ball joint ( u wrench it )
- Change tie rod ( U guessed it! )
- Change CTS since it seems to be the likely candidate for low idle.
- Add band aid to cooling system.

I am going to think about changing the oil again.
If I do I will seafoam the motor. (Like the water clean but with a better cleaning action.)

Advice sought -
What bandaid to use for the HG? I've got a Bar's product in mind but I ain't so sure the coolant isn't seeping at the radiator's right side. Snow is constant and now everywhere so I can't tell. I should just do a compression check but... I saw some inconsistent bubbles in the coolant so that said a lot. Does not overheat at all.

Always took the time and $ to fix it myself but for $290 + $81 in fees + $120 in parts and fluids + $30 more to come +$22 inspection fee I think I've spent enough on this one. It needs to last until April 1st.

[Legacy777]

Welcome to the board.

I would recommend the coolant temp sensor. Sounds like you're on the right track there with the stalling, and possibly the rich mixture.

As for the oil level issue. For whatever reason....these cars seem to do that. I've checked the oil after changing it. Everything is fine. Drive the car around for a few days, check again, and it's high. Then sometimes it goes back to showing the correct level. I wouldn't worry too much about the fluctuation.

Not sure about the bandaid. I understand your point and not wanting to dump more money into it.

[ericem]

I wouldn't recommend seafoaming the oil. Just try replacing the oil again with 10w-30. Now for your coolant issue, your pretty stuck, but you can try a new radiator cap, and Subaru has a special conditioner for the coolant. Not sure if it is only preventative or if it can cure small leaks. Radiator cap is pretty cheap as well. Stick with OEM.

Low idle fix, cleaning the IAC valve worked for me, just spray IAC safe intake cleaner down the IAC (idle air control) tube. It is hooked up to the intake, you will need to rev it up when you unplug it, or you can just fill up the tube full on intake cleaner, plug it back in, then start it up and rev the engine up, let the rpm's fall, rev up, and repeart like 3-5 times till it seems pretty good. Also a good idea to actually unplug the intake from the throttle body and cleaning inside the throttle body with some intake cleaner. When I took off my intake it was pretty dirty in there.

Subaru conditioner.

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/attach ... 1077312572

Ill find a pic of the IAC hose.

[ericem]

Here is a pic.



You can also use seafoam down that pipe.

[Slippers]

Thanks for the awesome welcome!

Great info and I really appreciate the photo.

Isn't the indicated line the same as the PCV line? I got a PCV valve and have yet to install it. I generally use the brake booster line and some carb cleaner with a tooth brush to clean the TB. I checked and this one is filthy.

In the past I've often removed and disassembled IAC's to clean them - Is this one internal?

To clarify with the seafoam: I don't plan too add seafoam to the oil. I might if it was a keeper and just a quick flush every 3rd oil change for 10 miles with 1/2 a can.
When I clean the top end of the motor I like to change the oil afterwards. I've flushed some nasty nastys out and the crank case seems to get a little in it. IDK how oil circulates in these engines but it seems like it would be more prone to contamination than a conventional V or I motor.

:sigh: more expenses.
-CTS sensor - $27
-Ball Joint - *Score* at $35 (Checkers auto v.s. $60 @ autozone) I tried to pull one at the pull n save. I trashed it and wasted 4 hours.
-Oil change - $10 *Score* for the cheap stuff! The filter looks... really cheap and I've seen Frams kill motors when the glued element came loose...
-4 185/70/14 Studless snow tires with thick skin. $130
-Heavy speaker wire from the pull n save for $2. The ground system in this car needs retrofitted to my standards.
Grounding wire kits are a cheap way to get more economy, power and performance in my experience - especially with auto transmissions. I can post photos if anyone is interested.

Potential Head Gasket Leak:

Found that bars head gasket stuff and it was $32... Well...
Thanks for suggesting "conditioner"

This thread states that they're paying $1.39/bottle and it works real well - Yes - I'll dump that stuff in!

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... 157&page=3

Will call subaru in the morning. Subaru P/N SOA635071 — Subaru Genuine Cooling System Conditioner.

Thanks a bunch!

*EDIT* P.S.

Got a fuel filter. It is not the one specified ($23 -$27) but one that I've used for several other applications. Originally intended for a nissan GA16DE, SR20DE and KA24E / DE engine family ($13).

Does anyone object to this before I do it? I'll use the correct flow direction.

Should fit nicely length wise and is of similar capacity / line size.

[ericem]

The PCV valve line is different. I have a pic. You can take apart the IAC valve, but some people encournter more problems usually after disassembly. Easier to try spray down the tube. Carb cleaner can work down the IAC valve as well I would think. PCV can help with oil issues too.

[Legacy777]

I'd suggest using the PCV for seafoaming. it's centrally located.


Also, I'd HIGHLY recommend NOT cleaning the TB. That is a sort of sealant of some kind, and some TB's, they have a bypass. Cleaning this sealant allows for more air to bypass the throttle plate and causes a high idle. Your 93 probably doesn't have the bypass, but I'd still probably suggest leaving the TB alone. Here's some back info/threads and pics.

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... =black+goo

http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/TB/

[Slippers]

Duly noted. I will not clean the TB.

Today I got it on the winter tires and changed the CTS and PCV.
PCV was a giant hassle. It was ancient, half clogged, but still functioned.
The plastic Y tube going into the top of the motor broke off and I had to go to the Home Depot to get a fitting. Found that the brass "T" 1/2 x 1/2 x 3/4 worked well enough.

My landlord gives me this bike spoke with a cloth on it that I jam down the hole to keep the plastic shards from the shattered Y tube from entering the motor while I remove the lower hose.
The brass end fell off of the bike spoke and I lost it down the hole I can't see that it will hurt anything and can't get it back.

Car starts better. CTS looked cruddy but not original. Idle is slightly better and does not try to stall at lights.

Radiator IS seeping on the right side.

She really rips. I got into a few uncontrolled understeer slides today during the blizzard but the e brake solved that.
A 4x4 lock would be nice. I see where people have installed a switch on Duty Solenoid "C" but the photos are gone. I can't do that without a write up or the FSM. Prefer FSM.

[Aerotech]

You can put in Forester or Outback struts/springs for a quick jack-up.