EDIT Searched but not found Woodruff key size crank sproket

magicmike · Post by **magicmike** » Sun Jan 25, 2009 12:18 am

What size is it? I see if referenced in the service manual bur no size. And can you get it out without taking the camshaft sproket off? Doesn't look like it to me. The crank looks ok.

OK well its fixed and I still dont know what size the woodruff key is. The one in there was pretty well intact. A few pics for informational purposes.

magicmike · Post by **magicmike** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 11:59 pm

Its official...all the knowledgeable people have left this site.

Grayguy · Post by **Grayguy** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 1:46 am

I don't know what size it is, but I do know you can't get it off with out taking that timing sprocket off the crank.

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 2:16 am

I would guess it's 8 mm wide, but I'm not going out to the garage to find out. Pretty sure you have to remove the crank sprocket to get it out.

magicmike · Post by **magicmike** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 2:43 am

ok, thanks guys. I was hoping i would not have to take the front of the motor apart to replace the key. The ffront of it is sheered off but the hole looks ok. I think my saving grace was that the crank pulley was loose long enough for it to wear concentrically and wore the hell out oh the pulley before really damaging the crank. dont ask me how. Thanks,

Grayguy · Post by **Grayguy** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 5:36 am

Subaru's seem to have a real issue with this keyway. My romm mates 96' imp had issues after hers fell out, I have a crank under the table atm that's FUBAR because of it, and the motor I just put in the 92' was missing one so I had to go get a "new" one...wtf subaru

magicmike · Post by **magicmike** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 7:10 am

I think I fucked up because I followed the torque spec instead of putting in on with the impact gun like i was thinking I should have.

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 9:11 am

Yeah, the problem is the wrong torque spec quoted everywhere.

magicmike · Post by **magicmike** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 6:13 pm

I thought it was liker 140-160, or 120- 140 I dont know but i know I followed what ever was in the hanyes.

glennda5id · Post by **glennda5id** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 7:36 pm

The subaru FSM had the incorrect spec, which was something like 76 ft-lbs. The correct is something between 110 and 120 I think, although I have read about people going to 135.

You may think that the key way looks okay, but that may because of the damaged key. Once you pull the crank gear you will have a better idea.

My keyway was moderately damaged. I used an epoxy type putty that hardens to steel to repair it. I basically filled it, put the key in, tapped on the crank gear and then then the crank pulley. I torqued it down a bit and let it sit for a day or two. Then came back and removed the crank pulley to find a pretty good fill and repair. I recently removed the crank pulley to check my timing and it is holding perfectly.

I'll post some picture if I can.

n2x4 · Post by **n2x4** » Tue Jan 27, 2009 8:27 pm

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=29036

Damn imageshack deleted one of my pictures.

entirelyturbo · Post by **entirelyturbo** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 6:23 pm

Here's a thread on it: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=15609

Just get a new keyway from Subaru. Part # 804505060. $2.32.

glennda5id · Post by **glennda5id** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 7:25 pm

I would also recommend replacing the crankshaft gear if there is ANY play in it. Its something like $25 from the dealer. Also, the cheapest way to get a new pulley is via rockauto They sell the genuine subaru part for under a $100.

magicmike · Post by **magicmike** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 11:46 pm

ok well I fixed it today in about 4 hours, fixed other stuff too.

upon examination the woodruff key was not messed up 100% it still had a large portion of it left. It was definately harder than the pulley which basically desintegrated. so I took the pulley off of my other motor and slid it on. It fit on on and there was about 2 mm back and forth movement on the keyway. Felt good to me and so long as the bolt doesn't come loose this time I should be ok. Ther bold looked like it had oil or grease on the threads a little (weird). I cleaned the bolt and the crank hole with brake parts cleaner and then used some blue locktight liberally on the bolt before putting it back on.
Heres the weird part, I go to grab my torque wrench to tighten the bolt and mine only goes up to 100ft/lbs! There is no way I tightened that pulley correctly the firt time! So i went to that shitty assed pep boys that i usually boycott and had to buy a larger torque wrench that would do 140ft/lbs. Jammed a screwdriver in the "timing" hole and put my 180lbs into it

I did go a little past the click just to be sure. That fuckers not coming off!

OK did some other stuff too:
Replaced the throttle body with the one off my other motor. Those coolant lines are a bitch! got the new one in there and then fixed the plug for the TPS. some jerkoff had T-tapped the black and red wire in the plug and then taken off the t-taps leaving the bare wires exposed. I dissasembled the plug and cutt back the wire and resoldered on the plugs and put the plug back together. I will post picks in a new thread on "fixing factory plugs" or something like that. Thats it!

She runs good but I need to search on idle rpms because she is at 650 in gear and around 700 in neurtral. I think she needs to be around 850 in neutral.

magicmike · Post by **magicmike** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 9:44 pm

pics added

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EDIT Searched but not found Woodruff key size crank sproket

EDIT Searched but not found Woodruff key size crank sproket