Greddy E-Manage Ultimate Thread

[cj91legss]

Well i bought this and wanna get some user input going.

What i really want to learn about first is Jumper settings. So im going to list all the jumper options here and "Guess" where they go, and hopefully someone who is smarter will correct me if i am wrong. All my Jumper Assumptions are underlined and what ever the hell the "slanty" text is called Please feel free to correct me if i am wrong.

Factory Settings


Jumper settings can be 1-2 or 2-3

Jumper Setting Description

JP1 Injector Input / Output Signal CH1
This jumper will configure the Injector Input / Output Signal CH1.
Set to “OPEN” when using Injector Adj. Map to trim and add fuel, and set to “1-2” to add only.

I'm Guessing 1-2

JP2 Injector Input / Output Signal CH2
This jumper will configure the Injector Input / Output Signal CH2.
Set to “OPEN” when using Injector Adj. Map to trim and add fuel, and set to “1-2” to add only.

I'm Guessing 1-2

JP3 Injector Input / Output Signal CH3
This jumper will configure the Injector Input / Output Signal CH3.
Set to “OPEN” when using Injector Adj. Map to trim and add fuel, and set to “1-2” to add only.

I'm Guessing 1-2

JP4 Injector Input / Output Signal CH4
This jumper will configure the Injector Input / Output Signal CH4.
Set to “OPEN” when using Injector Adj. Map to trim and add fuel, and set to “1-2” to add only.

I'm Guessing 1-2

JP5 Injector Input / Output Signal CH5
This jumper will configure the Injector Input / Output Signal CH5.
Set to “OPEN” when using Injector Adj. Map to trim and add fuel, and set to “1-2” to add only.

I'm Guessing NO jumper for "Open"

JP6 Injector Input / Output Signal CH6
This jumper will configure the Injector Input / Output Signal CH6.
Set to “OPEN” when using Injector Adj. Map to trim and add fuel, and set to “1-2” to add only.

I'm Guessing NO jumper for "Open"

JP7 Ignition Input Signal
This jumper will configure the unit to recognize the vehicle’s Ignition type.
Set to “1-2” for Normal type (pull down type), and “2-3” for Honda Distributor Type (pull up type).

I'm Guessing 1-2

JP8 Ignition Output Signal
This jumper will configure the Ignition output signal.
Set to “1-2” for 5V system and “2-3” for 12V System (Honda distributor Type or some Toyota when
tach does not operate properly).

I'm Guessing 1-2

JP9 Airflow Input / Output Signal
This jumper will configure the unit to recognize the vehicle’s Airflow meter system.
Set to”OPEN” for normal system (sensor signal increase as airflow increases), and set to “1-2” for
Mazda Hot Wire Type system (sensor signal decreases as airflow increases)

Open

JP10 Airflow Signal Input2 / VTEC Output
This jumper will configure the unit for vehicle with 2 airflow meters or for Honda to control VTEC.
Set to “1-2” for GT-R RB26DETT and “2-3 for VTEC.

Open

JP11 OPTION 1
This jumper will configure the OPTION 1 port on the Front Panel of the unit.
Set to “OPEN” for Normal type(when used for pressure or A/F sensor), and “1-2” when using
GReddy Temp Sensor.

Open

JP12 OPTION 2
This jumper will configure the OPTION 2 port on the Front Panel of the unit.
Set to “OPEN” for Normal type(when used for pressure or A/F sensor), and “1-2” when using
GReddy Temp Sensor.

Going to use 1-2 when i purchase the Intake Temperature Sensor

JP13 Knock Signal Input 1 / Water Temp Sensor
This jumper will configure pin 32 channel in the Connector C (14 pin connector).
Set to “OPEN” for Normal type (when used for knock sensor), and “1-2” for pull-up Type
(for temp sensor).

Open for Knock Sensor

JP14 Knock Signal Input 2 / Intake Temp Sensor
This jumper will configure pin 38 channel in the Connector C (14 pin connector).
Set to “OPEN” for Normal type (when used for knock sensor), and “1-2” for pull-up Type
(for temp sensor).

Don't have a second Knock Signal input so Use 1-2 for Temp Sensor

JP15 RPM Signal Input
This jumper will configure the unit to recognize the vehicle’s rpm signal.
Set to “1-2” for Normal type (Tach signal from ECU), or “2-3” for Coil(-) type.

I'm going to use 1-2 for this setting

JP16 Frequency Input / VTEC Input
This jumper will configure pin 13 channel in the Connector B (18 pin connector).
Set to “OPEN” for Karman airflow meter input signal. Set to “1-2” for VTEC input signal, and “2-3”
for VTEC input signal for K20A engine.

Not Applicable?

JP17 Frequency Output / VTM Output
This jumper will configure pin 21 channel in the Connector B (18 pin connector).
Set to “OPEN” for Karman airflow meter output signal. Set to “1-2” for Honda with VTM signal.

Not Applicable?

JP18 Injector Input / Output Signal CH1~6
This jumper will Configure the Injector Input/Output Signal Ch1~6.
Set to “OPEN” when using Injector Adj. Map to trim and add fuel, and set to “1-2” to add only.

Using 1-2

JP19 Injector Signal CH-A
This jumper will configure the Sub Injector Signal CH-A.
Set to “OPEN” when using CH-A for the 7th injector signal for V8 and set to “1-2” for Sub Injector
or for NVCS relay.

Not Applicable?

JP20 Injector SIgnal CH-B
This jumper will configure the Sub Injector Signal CH-B.
Set to “OPEN” when using CH-B for the 8th injector signal for V8 and set to “1-2” for Sub Injector
or for NVCS relay.

Not Applicable?

[cj91legss]

Reserved for Wiring (If Needed)

[cj91legss]

Reserved for Tuning information

[Legacy777]

JP9 Airflow Input / Output Signal
This jumper will configure the unit to recognize the vehicle’s Airflow meter system.
Set to”OPEN” for normal system (sensor signal increase as airflow increases), and set to “1-2” for
Mazda Hot Wire Type system (sensor signal decreases as airflow increases)

I'm Guessing 1-2

Airflow signal increases with airflow. Leave the jumper OPEN

JP10 Airflow Signal Input2 / VTEC Output
This jumper will configure the unit for vehicle with 2 airflow meters or for Honda to control VTEC.
Set to “1-2” for GT-R RB26DETT and “2-3 for VTEC.

Don't know what to do with this one

I'd probably Leave thisjumper OPEN since it doesn't apply to your car

JP11 OPTION 1
This jumper will configure the OPTION 1 port on the Front Panel of the unit.
Set to “OPEN” for Normal type(when used for pressure or A/F sensor), and “1-2” when using
GReddy Temp Sensor.

I'm using 1-2 for the MAP sensor that came with my E-Manage Ultimate

Why wouldn't this be OPEN since you're using it for the MAP sensor?

JP12 OPTION 2
This jumper will configure the OPTION 2 port on the Front Panel of the unit.
Set to “OPEN” for Normal type(when used for pressure or A/F sensor), and “1-2” when using
GReddy Temp Sensor.

Going to use 2-3 when i purchase the Intake Temperature Sensor

Why wouldn't this be 1-2 since it'd be for a temp sensor?

JP13 Knock Signal Input 1 / Water Temp Sensor
This jumper will configure pin 32 channel in the Connector C (14 pin connector).
Set to “OPEN” for Normal type (when used for knock sensor), and “1-2” for pull-up Type
(for temp sensor).

I'm Guessing 1-2

Are you using this for knock or water temp?

JP14 Knock Signal Input 2 / Intake Temp Sensor
This jumper will configure pin 38 channel in the Connector C (14 pin connector).
Set to “OPEN” for Normal type (when used for knock sensor), and “1-2” for pull-up Type
(for temp sensor).

Guessing this is for a factory Intake Temp Sensor?

If using for intake temp sensor use 1-2

JP16 Frequency Input / VTEC Input
This jumper will configure pin 13 channel in the Connector B (18 pin connector).
Set to “OPEN” for Karman airflow meter input signal. Set to “1-2” for VTEC input signal, and “2-3”
for VTEC input signal for K20A engine.

Not Applicable?

Yeah, I'd say not applicable

JP17 Frequency Output / VTM Output
This jumper will configure pin 21 channel in the Connector B (18 pin connector).
Set to “OPEN” for Karman airflow meter output signal. Set to “1-2” for Honda with VTM signal.

Not Applicable?

Yeah, I'd say not applicable

JP18 Injector Input / Output Signal CH1~6
This jumper will Configure the Injector Input/Output Signal Ch1~6.
Set to “OPEN” when using Injector Adj. Map to trim and add fuel, and set to “1-2” to add only.

Don't Understand

If you want to add and subtract fuel from the fuel map, vs. just adding fuel, you need to set this to 1-2. If you put larger injectors in, you will need to scale back the fuel map. Set to 1-2 is what I'd suggest

JP19 Injector Signal CH-A
This jumper will configure the Sub Injector Signal CH-A.
Set to “OPEN” when using CH-A for the 7th injector signal for V8 and set to “1-2” for Sub Injector
or for NVCS relay.

Not Applicable?

Yeah, I'd say not applicable

JP20 Injector SIgnal CH-B
This jumper will configure the Sub Injector Signal CH-B.
Set to “OPEN” when using CH-B for the 8th injector signal for V8 and set to “1-2” for Sub Injector
or for NVCS relay.

Not Applicable?

Yeah, I'd say not applicable

[cj91legss]

well, thanks josh. i was hoping you would get in on this.

[cj91legss]

Oh btw Josh, in the first post i mentioned something about "OPEN" meaning no jumper at all, is that correct?

[Legacy777]

Yes, that should be correct. I would think open should mean no jumper.

[cj91legss]

Edited for corrections

Josh when purchasing an Intake Temp Sensor, do you have any idea which i should be looking at? the Option 1 and Option 2 Ports where the sensors will plug into are 3 wire. I looked on ebay sor some IAT sensors and only saw 2 wire.

[Legacy777]

Umm...All temp sensors should only be 2 wire. What does the wiring diagram show the three wires are for?

[cj91legss]

I'll have to search for it, but the wire colors are Red, White, & Black... Unfortunately with wiring i can't just assume red is positive, black is ground, and white is signal...

[wtdash]

As noted in another post on here, I'm running the EMU on my OBD2 Forester. But since the cars share a lot of the same sensors/coil pack/etc., you may find this info useful. It's from a post HERE on nasioc. I didn't have to setup my EMU as it came from another car (his was '97 LGT). Because fo the potential to fry your ECU or the EMU, use this info @ YOUR OWN RISK.

And the jumper settings post from Brydon
JP1-(Open)
JP2-(Open)
JP3-(Open)
JP4-(Open)
JP5-(Open)
JP6-(Open)
JP7-(1-2)
JP8-(1-2)
JP9-(Open)
JP10-(Open or 2-3)
JP11-(Open)
JP12-(Open)
JP13-(Open **Do not tap this wire onto anything it will screw the factory ecu up**)
JP14-(Open **Do not tap this wire onto anything it will screw the factory ecu up**)
JP15-(1-2)
JP16-(you will not use this so what ever you want)
JP17-(you will not use this so what ever you want)
JP18-(Open)
JP19-(Open but you will probably not use this either)
JP20-(Open but you will probably not use this either)

Connector A:
Pin1 - (Ignition Input ch6 - Not used)
Pin2 - (Ignition Input ch5 - Not used)
Pin3 - (Ignition Input ch4 - Not used)
Pin4 - (Ignition Input ch2 - To ecu for cylinders 3/4)
Pin5 - (Ignition Input ch1 - To ecu for cylinders 1/2)
Pin6 - (Ignition Output ch6 - Not used)
Pin7 - (Ignition Input ch5 - Not used)
Pin8 - (Ignition Output ch4 - Not used)
Pin9 - (Ignition Output ch3 - Not used)
Pin10 - (Ignition Input ch3 - Not used)
Pin11 - (Ignition Output ch2 -To Ignitor for cylinders 3/4)
Pin12 - (Ignition Output ch1 -To Ignitor for cylinders 1/2)

Connector B:
Pin13 - (Not used)
Pin14 - (Not used)
Pin15 - (Airflow Input - To MapMAF sensor signal)
Pin16 - (TPS - T'ed to tps signal wire)
Pin17 - (Injector Input Ch1 - To ECU for Injector 1)
Pin18 - (Injector Input Ch2 - To ECU for Injector 2)
Pin19 - (Injector Input Ch3 - To ECU for Injector 3)
Pin20 - (Injector Input Ch4 - To ECU for Injector 4)
Pin21 - (Not used)
Pin22 - (Airflow Output - To Map sensor signal wire going to the ecu)
Pin23 - (Not used)
Pin24 - (Ground - T'ed ecu Power Ground)
Pin25 - (Ignition Power - T'ed to 12volt switched power)
Pin26 - (Not used)
Pin27 - (Not used)
Pin28 - (Not used)
Pin29 - (Not used)
Pin30 - (Injector Ground - T'ed to Injector Ground)

Connector C:
Pin31 - (Analog input signal - To Atmospheric pressure sensor)
Pin32 - (Not used)
Pin33 - (Not used)
Pin34 - (Injector Output Ch1 - To Injector 1)
Pin35 - (Injector Output Ch2 - To Injector 2)
Pin36 - (Injector Output Ch3 - To Injector 3)
Pin37 - (Analog Output signal - To ECU for Atmospheric pressure sensor)
Pin38 - (Not used)
Pin39 - (Not used)
Pin40 - (VSS Ouput - To ecu for vss)
Pin41 - (VSS Input - from vss sensor)
Pin42 - (Injector Output Ch4 - To Injector 4)
Pin43 - (Not used)
Pin44 - (Not used)

Things to know when setting up EMU:
RPM signal = Ignition signal
TPS is normal on some cars and reverse on others so watch out.
Setup DIP switches and make sure only two are on at any time. IE 1 Ignition and 1 fuel map.
I/J lag time is ~0.7msec
Ignition input and output only have 2 channels on the RS.

Things to do even if you have a zero map:
Set All the cells in the Boost Limit Cut Setting map to 4.5 that way you don't get a cell when boosting and you directly control the injectors when in boost.
In the Analog output setting map set the last 2 cells to 4.5 volts so you avoid a cell for the atmospheric pressure sensor while boosting.

Good things to know:
Start by taking back 1 degree of timing for every psi of boost. You might even tapper this up higher as the rpms raise. Just for safety to begin tuning.

Richen up the whole map tappering up while going into boost and while in boost. This way you are rich and since you control the injectors directly you will need more fuel as you get more boost. This doesn't mean these numbers have to be positive just more positive then cells that have less boost. Be aware that every number in your fuel map might be negative if you are using larger injectors.

well basically that's it!!! I run a piggyback on my RS and a standalone on my L. The difference is huge cams, huge turbo, and a car that mostly sees the track. The piggyback gets me to work everyday without fail. Starts well, runs smooth, and works well as a daily driver. The L actually starts, idles, and runs flawlessly but I had to put countless hours into it not to mention waiting for it to be colder or warmer to setup the enrichments and idle settings for whether conditions. Not exactly something you want to do on your daily driver.

Brydon

[wtdash]

Edited for corrections

Josh when purchasing an Intake Temp Sensor, do you have any idea which i should be looking at? the Option 1 and Option 2 Ports where the sensors will plug into are 3 wire. I looked on ebay sor some IAT sensors and only saw 2 wire.

Something to consider is running a WRX/STI MAF/IAT sensor ('02 - '07, I believe)- both are combined in one.

The Forester I have used a JECS/AUTECS MAF sensor, just like the other NA '90-99 Legacys. And I'm using a WRX to get more flow w/OUT having to 'clamp' my MAF voltage. I'm not 100% sure about the wiring being compatible, as my Forester MAF only had 3 wires, and my Legacy MAF has 5 (?). On the WRX there are 5 wires, too - 3 are for the MAF and 2 for the IAT.

Obviously, running the JECS w/out the Revtronix chip (or the EJ20G ECU??) means you'll need to tune for the MAF differences, too. It ran LEAN on my car when I tried it.

Td

[Legacy777]

Only issue with the MAF/IAT combo is that you don't get post turbo or post intercooler air temps. If your MAF based it's probably ok. However, and obviously if you decide to go MAP based, you don't need the MAF and you need to have an IAT post intercooler.

[cj91legss]

i was thinking about running a wrx/sti maf so i could go for the "big" maf tubes BUT it would be awesome to eliminate the maf in general...

[cj91legss]

Just thought i would add a pic of the board

[wtdash]

A link for the MAF wiring, if needed HERE.

TD

[tturnpaw]

Thanks for this. Actually this weekend once my car starts with the dohc conversion td04 and 530s I'll wire in my ultimate and this will help significantly. However I'm going to try the gm map route. If I can get them to communicate.

[cj91legss]

There shouldn't be any problems with communication right? a universal map sensor and full tunability should get you somewhere. make sure you add any suggestions or setback you have