Clutch cables... Fixed!!

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entirelyturbo
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Clutch cables... Fixed!!

Post by entirelyturbo »

Excuse me, gentlemen, while I speculate with my fingers :lol:

Ugh! I don't exactly know why, but I think my clutch cable is ready for replacement. What irks me is it was replaced only about 3 years ago. I don't think it should be fraying already... :evil:

Nonetheless, I have (in only the past couple days) experienced a very gritty and nasty feeling in moving the clutch pedal. It feels like there's a whole bunch of sand in the cable tube or something. There is no change in the clutch engagement, it engages fine and holds. But this is exactly what it felt like when I first got it. That's why I had the cable replaced. But why so soon again?

Well, I'm wondering if my habitual double-clutching has prematurely worn it out. When I had that Redline garbage in my gearbox, I was forced to learn how to double-clutch to engage the gears properly. Now I do it because it's fun. There's nothing like a perfect double-clutch and heel-toe downshift, it is the true bliss of driving a stick :D. But I wonder if the constant engage-and-disengage of the clutch has put a real strain on the clutch pedal, therefore causing it to fray and make the pedal feel very rough.

Oh well, I wonder if Autozone or somebody has a cable that might be a little stronger than an OEM one. I've heard of others buying clutch cables from such places, so it appears that they carry them...

Okay, speculation done. Those of you with cable clutches, go easy on em! :roll:
Last edited by entirelyturbo on Tue Nov 25, 2003 4:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by vrg3 »

I don't know that much about the actual construction of the cable, but I have heard of people switching to stainless steel clutch cables in other cars, presumably for more tensile strength... Maybe someone could make one for the BC/BF.

Maybe it could also help to get some lubricant in between the cable and its sheath? Or would that be bad? It seems like it could make fraying less likely.

The Advance Auto Parts in my area does carry clutch cables; when I was asking them about hoses they tried to sell me that cable. No idea how strong it is.
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entirelyturbo
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Post by entirelyturbo »

vrg3, what are OEM cables made of? I don't know...

When I replace the cable, I will probably coat it in lithium grease from top to bottom, maybe that will help... I did spray lithium grease on both ends of the current cable, hoping it would help. It didn't at all...

I wonder if I could buy a Discount cable and make it stronger perhaps? I did drop my engineering degree though, might not be the best idea :oops:
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evolutionmovement
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Post by evolutionmovement »

I have the original clutch cable on mine and I'm always double-declutching and downshifting. I spray mine with WD40 every once in a while, though to protect it from the weather. Don't know if that helps. Could the cable be slipping, causing it to chafe and fray?

Steve
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Post by vrg3 »

The only thing I could think of to make it stronger would be to attach the ends to stronger cable... or to put stronger cable in parallel with it. I don't know how you'd do that, but I guess a proper crimping could do it.
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entirelyturbo
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Post by entirelyturbo »

evolutionmovement wrote:I have the original clutch cable on mine and I'm always double-declutching and downshifting. I spray mine with WD40 every once in a while, though to protect it from the weather. Don't know if that helps. Could the cable be slipping, causing it to chafe and fray?

Steve
If you have the original clutch cable, Steve, then I am looking at something behind the scenes here. If you drive the same as me, and still hae your original cable, then I must have a kink somewhere, or something stuck in the sheath, or something that is causing premature wear...

I'm not sure why, but the pedal only has this rough feeling when the car is running, and it feels the worst when you disengage the clutch after engine braking at high RPM... I hope it's not something more serious than a cable :shock:
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Post by vrg3 »

I just thought of something about lubricating it -- you probably should be careful not to use a grease that gets really thick at low temperatures. You also need it not to all pour out at high temperatures, though... I guess the thickness may not be that big a deal since the pressure plate's so springy. I dunno.

I can't think of a reason it would matter what the engine speed was. 0 RPM, 750 RPM, 4000 RPM, it should all be the same, except for the amount of vibration of the engine and transmission themselves.

Hey -- you recently changed out your mounts, right? Maybe your mounts were allowing the engine and tranny to move enough that they caused the cable to abrade its lining.
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Post by entirelyturbo »

Possible. I have always noticed a slight vibration in the pedal, simply because it is directly attached to the clutch plate after all :lol:, but really since Saturday night, it has gotten this horrible feeling to it...

I put the new tranny mount in Sunday, and there was no improvement...

I'm thinking about VERY carefully spraying some WD40 down into the bellhousing, on the clutch fork, maybe the TOB is doing it... but I don't wanna get any of that stuff on the clutch disc... :?
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Post by vrg3 »

You could try that... black chain lube may be better than WD-40. Chain lube sprays out as an oil but sets as a grease.
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evolutionmovement
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Post by evolutionmovement »

I wonder if it could be a bearing, like the mainshaft or something?

Steve
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Post by entirelyturbo »

I sure as hell hope not. If a major piece of my drivetrain needs disassembling for repair, that's where I'll draw the line... I'll keep the car as long as the engine and tranny hold together...

But Steve, if the main bearing in the tranny was worn, wouldn't that cause a rattling sound, since the clearance would be opened up a bit...?

I don't think it's that major. If push comes to shove, I'll drop the tranny and maybe inspect the throwout bearing or something... But no major disassemblies of drivetrain parts...
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Post by vrg3 »

I'm gonna be an optimist and guess that the next clutch cable will last much longer because you have good mounts in place now.
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Post by Legacy777 »

wd-40 has zero lubricating properties......ZERO....notta....zilch......

just thought I'd share :)
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entirelyturbo
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Post by entirelyturbo »

Josh, so is WD40 more of a "silencer" than a "lubricator"? ;)

I know better now (through experience, unfortunately :roll: ) that it's best to start with the cheapest possible fix first. I will try some chain lube carefully on the clutch fork and see where I go from there... In fact, I think what I'll do is pull the boot off the fork, immerse the top of the fork in the lube and let it drip down into the bellhousing, avoiding any stray streams of the stuff to get on the disc. If that doesn't fix it, I'll try a new clutch cable... If not that either, I'll take the tranny out and inspect the clutch components... Hopefully, I'll find it before I get that far :?
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Post by eastbaysubaru »

It's called WD-40 because it's a "water displacer". That's what the name implies. Again, not a lubricant.

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Post by evolutionmovement »

Water displacement; it's what I use WD40 for. I live in New England and lost three beloved cars to cancer so I spray anything that will corrode with WD40 occassionally to keep it from rusting. Works well for that if you keep up with it, but my engine bay will never win any concours. :lol:

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Post by entirelyturbo »

Buahahaha! Talk about being too smart for our own britches!!! :lol: :lol:

We're over here discussing throwout bearings and mainshaft bearings and cable lubrication...

On a lark, I decided to tighten up the bolt that holds the clutch pedal on its bracket, thinking it may be moving side-to-side too much, causing a dragging... I tightened it up (had to more than once) and VOILA!!! the problem is gone!!!!

The frequent double-clutching I do probably loosened that nut, rather than do anything else...

I'm sorry this is so funny!!! :lol:
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