N/A Motor Swap Questions

[Legacy777]

It's actually 15.9 gallons lol. I ran completely out a while back and it only took 12.5 gallons to fill it which pisses me off since that means there's over 3 gallons sitting in there for no reason.

Something's not right with that. I've run mine damn near empty and have filled up with more than 12.5 gallons.

[evolutionmovement]

I've got fwd, but I've put over 13 gallons in it. I believe the manual lists it as 13.5 or so.

[GTwagon]

sorry didnt see this post.
but no i dont dare to push it cuz i dont want to walk to get gas .
is there a low gas warning light on my 94 leggy wagon?

Yes there is a low gas warning light. It comes on when there is approximately 2.4 gallons left in the tank. The light will come on and off initially when it starts to get low, and then stay on when it's really low. That's about when you have aproximately 2.4 gallons left. I've run mine pretty close to empty, and light it pretty accurate.

Here's info on how to test whether the low fuel light works. The connector is under the passenger side of the rear seat. It's under a little black cover, so you'll have to look a little bit for it.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... t_test.jpg

Get a portable fuel container, fill it up when you get low and then drive until you run out of gas. You've got the portable one there to put back in the main tank so you can get to a service station. I think you'll find that you can run further then your gauge is telling you, especially if you've never seen the low fuel light come on.

yes this is what i want to hear.
yes i never ran the wagon til the gas light came on mostly due to the fact that i thought it didn't have one and i've ran out of gas in my other vehicles b4 and lets say i wont be doing that ever again lol.(knock on wood)
but i will try out how much til the tanks completely empty but bringing the spare fuel container with me.
but i just ordered a new ngk o2 sensor, and will be getting the temp sensor soon after.
thanks for all the info everyone.

[Alphius]

I've put 14.5 in mine and the fuel light had been on for over 50 miles. My low fuel light seems to signal that I've got about 4+ gallons left.

[GTwagon]

well i finally saw the low fuel light on, but damn its tempermental.
it came on when it was above the empty line/mark.
but when i was driving to make the low fuel light come it didn't at all.
was below the empty line/mark so im not sure what to make of this?
any suggestions?

[Legacy777]

The low fuel light is kind of finicky when it first comes on. It will come on and go off when there is fuel just around where the sensor is. It will take driving a little bit further to get the fuel below the sensor all the time so the light stays on steady.

[GTwagon]

The low fuel light is kind of finicky when it first comes on. It will come on and go off when there is fuel just around where the sensor is. It will take driving a little bit further to get the fuel below the sensor all the time so the light stays on steady.

just wondering when do your light come on?
reason i ask is it's never came on for me til the needle is just above the "Empty" word.
thats scary low for me. but i do have to say there do seem to be more gas in the tank then what the
gauge says.
its hard to explain but i'll try to take a picture of it to show what i mean.
how reliable are these sensors?
do they go out? are they known to have some short of fault to them?

[Legacy777]

The low gas light doesn't come on for me until the needle is at or below the E mark.

[GTwagon]

hey everyone.
sorry for not posting in awhile but life's been busy.
but i've been thinking.
(why replace the whole motor when u can just replace the block.)
any way's i want to know if a stock ej22 n/a block will work in place of the ej22t block?
i just want to swap out the block, and keep everything else and bolt it back together.
i know the CR is different. so can i use a thicker gasket?
its going to have stock boost, no performance parts. completely stock. besides block now.
i'll be reinstalling every part on the ej22t onto the n/a ej22.
its almost got 200k on it, so want to preserve the ej22t for future use.
i want to take out the ej22t and start rebuilding it slowly as money allows.
i've tried searching on this and didnt come up with any thing and also not sure what to search for .
so if any one know if this is possible or not let me know.

[GTwagon]

been doing some more research today and i think its possible.
going down to pick and pull for a ej22 n/a block today.
only thing i want to know is what head gasket i should use to lower the compression a bit.
i'll update on how it goes.

[kimokalihi]

It's actually 15.9 gallons lol. I ran completely out a while back and it only took 12.5 gallons to fill it which pisses me off since that means there's over 3 gallons sitting in there for no reason.

Something's not right with that. I've run mine damn near empty and have filled up with more than 12.5 gallons.

I know right! I regularly run it to the E line and only takes 11.5 gallons or so.

[evolutionmovement]

People have done basically this same thing by turbocharging an N/A. I'd use the thickest head gasket they offer and run good gas. An intercooler wouldn't be a bad idea either, make sure your knock sensor is good, and you should be OK.

[GTwagon]

People have done basically this same thing by turbocharging an N/A. I'd use the thickest head gasket they offer and run good gas. An intercooler wouldn't be a bad idea either, make sure your knock sensor is good, and you should be OK.

thanks, this is what i want to hear.
any suggestions on what thickness of a gasket i should get?
also new to the shim thing on subaru's on valves.
if i just replace the block do i need to reshim the valve's?
im going to be taking the whole motor out then take the heads off.
n e suggestions on this also?

[evolutionmovement]

The valves are hydraulic, but I don't know why you'd have to do adjust them anyway. Break the head bolts loose while the engine is in the car still. Trust me on that. Someone else might have an idea of actual gasket thickness, but I'd take the thickest OEM one offered. Everything should be a simple swap over. The only differences in the turbo block are the pistons and closed deck. The heads are the same, but the turbo has slightly smaller intake or exhaust valves (I forget which), slightly different cam profiles, and a couple holes drilled and tapped into the head used on the turbo side for the coolant and oil lines. There is really only one head for these phase 1 SOHC engines as they just mount the cam in reverse from one side to the other. Clever way to save money on building a relatively expensive engine (compared to inline and iron block contemporaries) as they only need to pay for casting and machining a single head and add a simple additional operation for the holes on the low production right side turbo heads.

[GTwagon]

The valves are hydraulic, but I don't know why you'd have to do adjust them anyway. Break the head bolts loose while the engine is in the car still. Trust me on that. Someone else might have an idea of actual gasket thickness, but I'd take the thickest OEM one offered. Everything should be a simple swap over. The only differences in the turbo block are the pistons and closed deck. The heads are the same, but the turbo has slightly smaller intake or exhaust valves (I forget which), slightly different cam profiles, and a couple holes drilled and tapped into the head used on the turbo side for the coolant and oil lines. There is really only one head for these phase 1 SOHC engines as they just mount the cam in reverse from one side to the other. Clever way to save money on building a relatively expensive engine (compared to inline and iron block contemporaries) as they only need to pay for casting and machining a single head and add a simple additional operation for the holes on the low production right side turbo heads.

alright thanks for the tip.
didnt have luck at pick and pull today.
found one 95 wagon but it had 200k+ miles on it, and it look like it had a blown head gasket.
hope i can find one tomorrow another location around me.

[Legacy777]

Just to clarify....are you wanting to take a complete non-turbo long block and use that, or are you just wanting to use the short block with the turbo heads?

[GTwagon]

Just to clarify....are you wanting to take a complete non-turbo long block and use that, or are you just wanting to use the short block with the turbo heads?

i am going to be using the short block with the ej22t turbo head's.
basicly just swaping the short block in place of the ej22t.
reason for doing this is to save the ej22t short block for something else.
the turbo wagon will never be modded. it'll be stock til it blow's.
besides suspension the motor will be completely stock.
other reason for doing this is, i think the head gasket is about to go soon.
i've been having cooling problems lately, but i dont see coolant on the dipstick.
that and its about time i do the timing belt and water pump.
bought the car with 160+k miles on it and i dont know if its ever been done.
just want to get it road worthy now and give it to my dad as his DD since i finally got my WRX running.

[Legacy777]

Are you going to tear down the short block or just clean it up and swap on the turbo heads?

[GTwagon]

Are you going to tear down the short block or just clean it up and swap on the turbo heads?

that all depends on the compression test and milege really, and thats if i can take one.
but was thinking of just cleaning up the short block and put it back together.
but i think most likely i'll tear it down and rebuild it cuz the motor's im finding is above 200+k miles .
is there common faults on the ej22t?
also whats your opinion on my situation?
so i rebuild the short block or clean it up and slap it together?
just tempted to see what a n/a block will do on the turbo.

[MConte05]

Well, I thought I'd chime in with my questions/concerns. I have a 94SS that I am pulling the 2.2T to put in a 1991 EJ22E NA engine into. Reason being is that I am preparing my rally car for solid Open Light duty, where NA engines are required. I have delta cams coming in, and have pulled the EJ22E out of my parts car.

From everything that I have read, I just have to swap the pins on the ECU side for two sensors? I noticed that I will have to use the turbo engine harness since the older NA one doesn't match up with the 3 bulkhead harnesses. Will I need to have the wastegate solenoid and stuff still plugged in despite using the NA ECU? I know when I unplugged the WG solenoid once, the car wouldn't even run right.

Crossmember is already getting swapped.

Anything else I am missing? The new engine with the cams is getting built tonight, hoping to put the engine in along with the new transmission and RS rear diff tomorrow.

[Legacy777]

that all depends on the compression test and milege really, and thats if i can take one.
but was thinking of just cleaning up the short block and put it back together.
but i think most likely i'll tear it down and rebuild it cuz the motor's im finding is above 200+k miles .
is there common faults on the ej22t?
also whats your opinion on my situation?
so i rebuild the short block or clean it up and slap it together?
just tempted to see what a n/a block will do on the turbo.

From my experience having the heads & deck resurfaced is a VERY good idea. It may look fine, but the head gaskets don't seat as well, and there's a chance of issues.

How long do you plan to run this engine and do you plan to run anything above the stock boost? If you plan to keep this engine for the foreseeable future and run a little more than stock boost, I'd pull block apart and machine the deck & heads. Most people find that the bearings are ok and cylinder walls are ok, but to do any machining on the deck, you've got to split the motor.

If this motor solution is only temporary and you just run stock boost, you could probably get by with just cleaning it up and slapping it together.

[vrg3]

MConte05 - Yes, just swapping the cam and crank sensor positive signal pins should work. Ideally, you'd be doing three pin swaps, though -- it's better to keep the shield and negative wires together with the positive signal wires too. You won't need the wastegate solenoid, the pressure sensor, or the pressure exchange solenoid.

[GTwagon]

that all depends on the compression test and milege really, and thats if i can take one.
but was thinking of just cleaning up the short block and put it back together.
but i think most likely i'll tear it down and rebuild it cuz the motor's im finding is above 200+k miles .
is there common faults on the ej22t?
also whats your opinion on my situation?
so i rebuild the short block or clean it up and slap it together?
just tempted to see what a n/a block will do on the turbo.

From my experience having the heads & deck resurfaced is a VERY good idea. It may look fine, but the head gaskets don't seat as well, and there's a chance of issues.

How long do you plan to run this engine and do you plan to run anything above the stock boost? If you plan to keep this engine for the foreseeable future and run a little more than stock boost, I'd pull block apart and machine the deck & heads. Most people find that the bearings are ok and cylinder walls are ok, but to do any machining on the deck, you've got to split the motor.

If this motor solution is only temporary and you just run stock boost, you could probably get by with just cleaning it up and slapping it together.

this is going to be for long term use.
i don't plan on going over stock boost with this thing.
like i said before its going to be for my dad as his DD.
he spun out a couple times in his work van already and thats all he's driving.
that's the other reason y i said just suspension will be upgraded and that's more like bushings and ect.
i hope i dont need to go that far as to getting the n/a block decked but i think im going to n e ways just
as i want to replace the bearings on the crank and rod's at less.
should i replace the rings also?
been pondering on that atm.
i want to make this as less expensive as possible but will be replacing the bearings and head gasket kit.
i'll be doing the work my self so i'll save on labor but i know i'll need to get some parts.
want this to last my dad for awhile .
but n e ways n e suggestions on the piston rings?
should i replace those also?

[Legacy777]

It's always a good idea in my opinion to replace the rings if you take the piston out. The rings will wear in a certain groove in the cylinder. The chances of you getting them back exactly where they were is slim. So it's a good idea to put new rings in.....OR at the very very least have the cylinders lightly honed so when you put the old rings or new rings back in they will seat properly. I'd advise to go with the new rings, but you got to do what you got to do sometimes.

[GTwagon]

It's always a good idea in my opinion to replace the rings if you take the piston out. The rings will wear in a certain groove in the cylinder. The chances of you getting them back exactly where they were is slim. So it's a good idea to put new rings in.....OR at the very very least have the cylinders lightly honed so when you put the old rings or new rings back in they will seat properly. I'd advise to go with the new rings, but you got to do what you got to do sometimes.

thanks for the heads up.
think i'll be replacing the rings then cuz i am going to replace the crank and rod bearings at the very less.
i'll try to do a documentation on the build and hope it helps others out later on.
thanks for everyone's opinion's and thoughts on this.