What to do with this mess HELP!! Plus want to improve.

[tricktiki]

Hey guys new to subaru so got no idea but this doesn't look right. I've messed around with turbos before an know that blocking it all off not got in the long run. And what to do with the atwic do I swap it with something else like wrx air to air top mount?

[cj91legss]

I'm confused as to what the problem is. Maybe be more specific?

[FundamentalyConfused]

Did the previous owner do all the blocking off?

[mike-tracy]

That silver metal pipe in Pic 2 going to the intake 90* rubber piece is where the BPV aka factory BOV used to go.

Unless I'm missing something, you need to fit a BPV there or you're recirculating the turbo's pressure all the time and not getting any boost.

[tricktiki]

That piece of metal in the 90* is soild stainless bar? Can i change the intake pipe to a wrx one like silicone aftermarket. And is it worth changing the intercooler to a tmic wrx?

[mike-tracy]

You already have an aftermarket intake piece, looks kind of like an HKS intake for the ej20g engine (that your car and early WRX/STI's have).

Here is a couple of pictures of what your engine "should" look like stock

Notice the "bpv" from the intercooler to the intake 90* where your setup has that silver colored pipe.



Here is the WRX setup of the same engine, with the BPV clearly visible:


You can easily swap to the Ver 1/2 WRX or STI intercooler but they would be a downgrade since they soak up all the heat from your engine, whereas your setup has the cooling panels behind the front bumper. A larger water core in the front bumper can be done if you are experiencing "heat soak." Or an air to air front mount could be done too, but might add more lag to your setup.

All pics from this page:
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=38247

[dscoobydoo]

I also noticed that your stock boost controller is being bypassed. I would see what is in its place instead- probably located iin the little gap behind the strut tower mounts.

Seems you (to start with) just need to put in the BPV that is missing ( see the above posts)

As for removing the stock AWIC, since your car is RHD, I am guessing you are in Canada. Since your temperatures are not as hot as in the US, the AWIC is going to be a better set-up. You can put in a bigger front radiator for the AWIC and improve the water temps, but I would leave everything else the same. ( except maybe a bigger pump also- but not necessary)

[Legacy777]

Wow....yeah, don't drive the car like that. That turbo compressor has likely gone/been in surge and will not last too long.

As mentioned, put the stock bypass valve back in, and hook up the stock boost control solenoid.

I too would suggest keeping the AWIC setup.

[oldscoobyturbo]

2nd that you replace the missing components and keep the awic its much better than air to air

[Alphius]

That piece of metal in the 90* is soild stainless bar

Uh, unless I am misreading he says that it is a solid stainless bar, not a pipe. That isn't great but it's basically the same as not having a BOV or BPV at all which lots of low-boost turbo setups get away with. Not great for boost between shifts and it is a little hard on the compressor wheel but its not catastrophic.

The intake is a nice unit, it's an Apex'i short ram intake for EJ20G. You should keep that.

The Air-to-Water intercooler is fine too, better than an early WRX intercooler. As Mike said, you could upgrade the heat exchanger and pump for better units if it is heatsoaking.

Really the only issue is that you should probably have a BPV like factory instead of a blockoff bar.

[tricktiki]

I'm actually in OZ Australia and yeh car has apex I intake, greddy boost controller, greddy turbo timer, GC8 96 block/ engine rebuilt.

[tricktiki]

And my intercooler plug wasn't plugged in and when i do the intercooler light stays on?

[Legacy777]

I'm not exactly sure what the intercooler plug does, but I'm guessing it's either a temp sensor or level sender.