Engine runs rought at low rpms after seals change

[maxdrive3]

Hi! guys!

this is a 1993 Subaru Legacy Wagon that was sent to the shop for engine seals replacement since it was leaking oil, once there the mechanic told me to change some transmission seals and rings and that the hydraulic steering was also leaking... i said ok go and do it.

After 5 days i pick upt the car and i notice it feels can of rough when accelerating and a little lack of power, when i arrive home i decide to do an underside inspection, and i found the following:
-one of the bolts of the screws that connect the engine with the transmission was missing
-the screw that hold the exhaust right after the transmission pan is missing (noise source)
-both cv axles have a little play (some free movement that i need help to determine if is it normal nor if ti has to be completely stiff (the movement is at the join with the transmission) (i read in another forum that someone had the same roughness in the acceleration and then discovered that the cv axles were 2 inches out of the transmission case, mines are not out neither separated but have a free play at the connection with the transmission.

since the timing belt was also changed, i suspect maybe it is not synchronized, but would have symptoms the whole engine speed range
talking about the timing belt there is a sound coming from it, i have heard that sound in others Subaru, but not in mine, someone told me that sometimes the timing belt's material can cause that, but also told me that when i is too tight or too loose or is not properly fitted...

my intention with this post, guys, is to acquire the most knowledge possible in order to be prepare to my next visit to the mechanics (within two days), because in the country i am living right now, even the dealership or the authorized representative of a brand is very prone to exercise very bad mechanic practice, that's something common here, you have absolutely no idea of the bad tricks and manners that local mechanics here have.

Thank you a lot in advance guy!

[Legacy777]

Typically I would say that if the car did not act that way before you brought it to them, that what they did caused it. The timing belt tensioner automatically adjusts the tension. The noise may be the water pump or idler pullies if they did the work improperly or used inferior components.

Can you describe the free play on the axles? Is the free play in and out of the trans or is it side-to-side. Typically there may be a very little amount of play, but it shouldn't be excessive.

[maxdrive3]

Typically I would say that if the car did not act that way before you brought it to them, that what they did caused it. The timing belt tensioner automatically adjusts the tension. The noise may be the water pump or idler pullies if they did the work improperly or used inferior components.

Can you describe the free play on the axles? Is the free play in and out of the trans or is it side-to-side. Typically there may be a very little amount of play, but it shouldn't be excessive.

Thak you for your response "LEgacy 777"!

Typically I would say that if the car did not act that way before you brought it to them, that what they did caused it.

Thats my thought too! so i agree with that!

The timing belt tensioner automatically adjusts the tension

yeah, that was another discussion i had witha mechanic before this, he wanted under all the ways to fix the tensioner to a fixed tension... i didnt understood its function, and he was a mechanic of the main Subaru dealer in this country!

Can you describe the free play on the axles? Is the free play in and out of the trans or is it side-to-side. Typically there may be a very little amount of play, but it shouldn't be excessive.

Yes, the free play is side-to-side, i should have recorded a video of it but after you say a little amount but not excesive would be ok, my self, i think is very little but why i am alert is because i dont remember it was there before, i am not telling there were no free play before, i just dont remember.

about the howl noise

i have a small video where it can be appreciated

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Myy_42xTKZ8

(despite the howl noise can be heard an intermittent shhrhrr noise at the left (the steering pump) the mechanic told me that must be replaced, and precisely today i notice it was overfilled, i remove about 4oz and the noise was gone,[the hydraulic pump noise not the howl noise] and after that i decide o check all the fluids levels, and the transmission [automatic] had almost 2 litters in excess !]

[free5ty1e]

Wow thats a lot of extra atf. Did you check that while the car was running? Also which side of the car was this dipstick on, driver or passenger? Also, right or left hand drive?

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[Legacy777]

To expand on what Chris posted. The automatic transmission fluid needs to be checked with the engine running at normal idle with all the accessories turned off. The transmission also should be up to normal operating temperature. It can take 10-15 miles for that to happen. Once the transmission is up to normal operating temperature, park on a flat surface, turn off all the accessories, slowly cycle the gear selector from park to 1st and back to park again. With the engine still running check the transmission fluid level. The ATF dipstick is on the right side when facing the engine. There will be two sets of marks on the dipstick, one for when the transmission is "cold" and one for when it is "hot". Make sure to use the "hot" marks.