Rebuilt engine break in procedures

[turbo wagon]

Hello,

I am about to assemble my EJ22T and I am inquiring about engine break in procedures.

This is what I have:

Ej22T block bored over .20 and decked
Wesco forged Pistons
Delta 220 cams
Stock heads with new valve guides, exhaust valves, Mild port/polish, and decked
ARP Head studs
440 injectors
Rob Tune ECU
TD04 turbo
Walbro fuel pump
3" turbo back exhaust

I am going to make an engine test stand to start it for the first time and break it in.
Any help would be great!
Thanks,
Derek

[Legacy777]

I would not really recommend starting it up on a test stand unless you have a way to load the engine (i.e. dyno).

First and foremost, I recommend using a good engine assembly lube. I didn't use one the first time around and I think that's why my bearings didn't look all that great when I tore the engine down.

Secondly, I have typically cranked the engine with the starter with the plugs out until I built oil pressure. The downside to this is that there is typically not enough oil pressure to keep the lifters full. This is especially an issue with the Delta cams. In theory the engine assembly lube should be enough to keep things lubricated until the oil pressure builds, however starting an engine without any oil pressure just doesn't sit well with me. So if you want to build oil pressure by cranking with the starter, what I'd suggest is do that, and then pull the valve covers and rocker assembly to check and rebleed the lifters.

I also recommend you read over my post regarding shims/washers for the Delta cams
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=47718

As far as starting up the engine, the break in a new cam, you typically want to high idle it for certain amount of time. Delta cams can provide you their recommendation. I don't recall what their specific recommendation is at the moment.

Either before or while the engine is high idling top off the coolant and check the engine for leaks and just make sure everything looks good.

Once you're ready to take it for a drive, I try to find an area where I can get the rpms to mid level 3-4k and then allow the engine braking to drop the engine rpms down to 1-1.5k. Do this about 10 times or so. What you're trying to do is use the engine vacuum suck the rings against the cylinder walls to speed and improve the ring break in and sealing. Once you've done this, then I'd suggest just driving the car around like normal. Try to varying engine rpm and load as much as you can. City stop and go driving is good for that......don't go on a 3,000 mile highway drive right off the bat. Short of that....I tried to do the engine deceleration thing every now and then. I'm not sure if it made any difference, but I'd usually do it on the freeway.

I personally don't have any issues with not babying the engine. I don't know if I'd recommend giving it full throttle everywhere, but a spirited romp every now and then is fine. As you get more miles on the engine those spirited romps can be more frequent and more agressive.

Change your oil after 500-1000 miles of start up and then 3000 after that, then do what ever your normal oil change intervals are. I have changed mine after 100-250 miles, but I typically don't get a lot of miles on the car, which is why I did that.

Engine break in procedures are a bit subjective and everyone seems to have a slightly different twist to what they prefer or recommend.

[turbo wagon]

thanks Josh,

I have a question about the boost during break in. I have a manual boost controller somebody made and I also have a Blitz EBC. Would it be safer to run the Blitz with almost no boost or what?

Derek

[Legacy777]

I would just try and keep boost low (around 5 psi or so) until you get some mileage on the engine. I don't know which way would be the best to acheive that, but if your wastegate is around there, you can just run the compressor boost reference port into the wastegate actuator.