I replaced my oil pump last night and I have a few questions.
I used Permatex anaerobic sealer (red stuff) and I went all the way around the pump, and not around that circle on the bottom left (see how it goes around and back out to the outer edge), I was told to just do a decent bead all the way around the outer edge.
EXAMPLE:
By not getting that ridge in the bottom left, is that harmful for the pump?
Secondly, the O Ring. I didn't have an O Ring but needed to replace it cause mine was shot, my shop had a bunch of engine seal kits and I grabbed an O Ring that fit perfectly in the block and it had like a little inner lip to it which is what I heard the O Ring has. I'm almost positive that it was the correct O Ring but if it wasn't, can that be harmful as well? I replaced my Oil Pump because i'm having oil pressure issues to my lifters.
Thanks
the guy who had the really low winestone SS on the corvette wheels
So, based on that, Yes it needs the sealant around that section. Hopefully you've not put it all back together yet??
And I think your o-ring is fine.
Those gold/bronze colored Phillips head screws on the back of the pump can come loose. Did you tighten them on the pump you installed?
If you re-do it I wouldn't use too much of a bead. The one in your pic is as much as you should need. You don't want it squeezing out and getting into the oil flow....I think the anaerobic stuff you used is better for that, too.
TD
Turbo Subies:
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Oh it's back together, and already driven about 25 miles on it... haha.
Not leaking and seems to be fine, car is STILL TICKING, I figured the oil pump / o-ring was the cause but no help -_- so i'm down to just replacing all the lifters and seeing if that solves it. (separate issue)
BUT the car is running great so far, I hooned around in the snow tonight (was easy on the motor) but for now I will be light on it until I do my timing belt and i'll re-seal the oil pump then.
the guy who had the really low winestone SS on the corvette wheels
So just out of curiosity, When you get an oil pump gasket kit, from say autozone or schucks, it comes with a paper gasket. Should a builder not use the gasket at all and ONLY use the sealant?
91 L-TW Wagon with a full Swap -RIP
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
BTW for everyone else, an Oil pump seal kit has the gasket, o-ring, and front main seal for a better price than just asking for the front main seal at a common auto parts store.
91 L-TW Wagon with a full Swap -RIP
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
Yes, as with the oil pan you do not use a gasket. Also, it may not be leaking yet but I see a leak I. Your near future if you did not seal that large hole on the bottom left. The lifter tick could be fixed with some seafoam or kroil in your oil for a hundred miles.
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
That is actually the "suction" area of the pump. I'm kind of surprised it's not already leaking. However, it may also be contributing or masking your problem. Since that is the suction side it may be drawing in air and not getting as much oil flow through the pump and the engine as you should.
I would highly recommend you pull the pump off, clean it, and reseal it.
My shop just had the Permatex Anaerobic RTV on the shelf, i'm not sure where locally you could get it. I was gonna say online is your best bet prolly, but ya beet me to it.
the guy who had the really low winestone SS on the corvette wheels