My power steering was leaking and a bit of fluid usually drops over the hot exhaust, causong smoke. But the other day it really got worse as soon as i entered the city (traffic). Decided to get fixed and when driving to the shop the car started to blow smoke even more from under the hood. When stopping for red lights the car looks like it's on fire. All others drivers freakin out near me. But i was convinced it was the ps fluid, but then temp starts rising. When reached 75% i managed to stop the car. Turn off the engine, and let the ignition on to allow fans to cool it down. But the temp continues to go up, even with the engine off, until reach maximum. Waited to cool down. Drove to the shop. POwer steering fixed one week later. Tryed to go home. Overheated again. Bad blueish smoke literally blowing from under the engine. Stopped. Let it cool a bit and checked radiator. Almost dry . Added some water (about 2.5 liters) and drove home (was 5 minutes away and almost overheated again). Started to look for leaks and found that the radiator has a big crack in the plastic column. When filed with water becomes a waterfall. Took radiator off to take it for repair/replacement. Already got new hoses, t-stat, aisin water pump to go in. But what about the engine? I forgot to tell that when driving it feels a bit weaker and hesitating. Do i have a cracked block, block head, or what? No smoke from tail pipe nor water in the oil that i've noticed. I'm a bit desperate missus telling the wagon has to go... ((((
I think i've fried my engine for trusting the temp gauge cause it was still in the middle when smoke was blowing from under the hood. I guess as there was no water passing through, it didn't read, but was already overheated. Please help with comments. Thanks.
Wagonship: 1993 Legacy BF (High Roof Touring Wagon) EJ22 5-spd manual with low range \o/
The EJ22 is pretty hard to kill by overheating. Once you get the new radiator in you might be surprised to find that it's perfectly OK. The worst case scenario would be that you might need to reseal the engine: new headgaskets and all that is associated with that.
I too would recommend replacing the radiator and refilling to see how the engine runs. You need to make sure the thermostat is a Subaru genuine thermostat and has the same shape as the factory t-stat. I believe Stant makes a replacement thermostat that is the same size and will work, but I believe that is the only one. If you use a thermostat that isn't a Subaru or similar type it will cause you issues with the cooling system and act like the engine is overheating.
Thanks guys. I'm still searching for a radiator nearby. In the meantime, car is parked
The t-stat is Stant (made in Germany), looks exactly like the OEM in your kind pictures.
I've searched for a cylinder head gasket set just in case. I see a lot o good reviews about FelPro, but got a good price on BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0322891 that is supposed to be OEM either. If anyone got a review, now it's time to share
In this pic you can see the t-stat that i've bought previously: http://bit.ly/1MibENy Also got a new radiator cap and the complete hose set, including the two from heater core.
Got the complete t-belt kit from mizumoauto with water pump. I see it came with some seals (o'rings), probably cam seals. Also have bought an extra seal for the oil pump and a FelPro gasket for the oil pan. So i guess it's just the head set that i'll need (luckily). But to remove the engine, such a big job, that if i had the money I'd probably replace the clutch as well.
cheers
Wagonship: 1993 Legacy BF (High Roof Touring Wagon) EJ22 5-spd manual with low range \o/
The crack in the radiator is pretty common, happened on both of my first gens and have over heated both from that. And a few more times from a bad head gasket a year later probably from having 240k miles and not so much to do with it over heating. When i pulled my heads and took a straight edge to the mating surface i was really surprised to see them straight as an arrow.
So slap the radiator in there and see what happens. your probably fine, but doing head gaskets isnt the end of the world, especially since the radiator is already out and you plan on doing a timing kit anyways. You have tons of room on the sides to get at all of the hardware to pull the heads if you have to do it in car. i always pull the motor to aid in resealing the oil pan and washing all of the crud off the block.
Hi guys, nice to hear your experience. I might reseal the engine as funds allow cause i do enjoy the wagon. We have other car, but this one is so perfect to carry our large dogs, huge cargo space. It handles like a dream either on tarmac or light off road. Even got a new suspension (kyb shocks, moog ball joints, raybestos pro sb links and hardrace (uk) control arm bushes) and recently front cv joints, steering rack and rebuild steering pump. I did spend lots of cash, most people would call me crazy (and they're probably right). I was even planning to lift it a small bit to help with the bad roads around here. But outback struts give circa 2" lift and it's too much for my needs. I bought original shocks (stock height) and was planning on trying urethane cushions to gain from half to one inch most.
About the engine, thing is that i already had oil leaking from beneath. It's not the oil pan and i believe it's not the valve covers either, as they look pretty ok and dry on the top. I have noticed the bottom of engine becoming very dirty since a few months and some oil drips in my garage (the ones that you cannot tell exactly where it's leaking from). To tell the truth, i got this car from the first owner with only 100k miles on it (now close to 115k) and car was parked for five long years. I'm not a mechanic and everybody warned me about the risks of an engine that has been sitting so long and i knew the reseal job was about to come anyways. In the time of purchase, I've sended the car out to a good shop to get the engine running so i could drive to my town (1 hour drive). They cleaned the fuel tank, flushed the engine, fuel injectors, changed spark plugs, wires, fluids, new fuel pump, fuel filter, and many small other itens. Then got new rotors, brake pads, new alternator, battery, but have neglected cooling system due to lack of time (how stupid) as temp was always in the middle where it should be. I do love the wagon and know the radiator got 22 yrs on it, can't blame. Had already bought new hoses and thermostat.
Small things that surprise me about the car. The other day it started with a rough idle. Parked in a gas station on my way to work, connected the wires to get OBD "morse" code and googled it. Fuel injector #2. Bought new and replaced by myself (googled how to) at night and car was running great again next morning. It's so awesome. On my other car i run an OBDIi scangauge that give me lots of info, but the Legacy is so arcaic and technological at the same time that amazes me. It really looks like a spaceship from the 1920's. Gave me confidence even to start doing small jobs, such as removing the radiator that i just did myself. After everything that is happening now settles, i'll try to look into these aftermarket temp gauges (racetronix make them i guess). You can connect it in a way that it reads temperature better (using a strategic location somewhere on the block). Then you can set temp sound alarms and so on. If anybody has done it, please let me know.
Reading these posts made me think that i really have a precious engine under the hood that worth caring for. I'll let you know how things are going. But parts take long to arrive sometimes as i import mostly from USA. Sorry for my poor english, my long post and for any mobile phone typos.
Cheers
Wagonship: 1993 Legacy BF (High Roof Touring Wagon) EJ22 5-spd manual with low range \o/
Replaced the radiator and coolant hoses. Engine is running great again. The smoke was actually coming from the exhaust where there is a lot of oil dripping from under the engine. Will start a new topic about it. Bottom line is: you can't go wrong with the EJ22. Engine is bulletproof even with 20+ yrs of abuse.
cheers
Wagonship: 1993 Legacy BF (High Roof Touring Wagon) EJ22 5-spd manual with low range \o/