how to get rid of wheel hop

greg donovan · Post by **greg donovan** » Sun May 09, 2004 7:13 am

when i do a hard rallyx start in my FWD i get what can best be described as the tranny and engine shuddering. its not the clutch. but it vibrates the whole dash and just generally sound very violent.

i would assume the GN tranny and engine mounts would help. would a ALK help and how about the GN pitch stopper? anything else.

greg

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Sun May 09, 2004 7:52 am

Mine does the same things in the damp (not soaked, just damp pavement). I think it's the tires hopping. I notice on mine that it doesn't spin all the power out one wheel like most fwds, either so it feels like the two tires are fighting for grip and hop on the pavement. It must be the =length driveshafts since if the wheel is turned I do get the peg leg effect. I think I get too much traction (or not enough power) for this to happen in the dry as it only happens in the damp.

Steve

greg donovan · Post by **greg donovan** » Sun May 09, 2004 2:54 pm

yeah i forgot it happens in wet too.

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Sun May 09, 2004 11:56 pm

Wheel hop.

What do your struts look like? Good condition?

Happened in my 95 Legacy too.

greg donovan · Post by **greg donovan** » Mon May 10, 2004 12:51 am

gr2's w/only 9k on them. i thought wheel hop was the proper term but wasnt sure. well anyway how doi i get rid of wheel hop.

NuwanD · Post by **NuwanD** » Mon May 10, 2004 2:52 am

The engine/tranny will torque itself along the axis of the driveshafts; twisting as far as the engine/tranny mounts will allow it to, kinda winding itself up like an elastic band and it will then release this extra "torque" which will break traction in certain situations and cause wheel hop.

Play or slack in the mounting points from the drivetrain to the chassis can cause wheel hop... stiffer engine/tranny mounts would help the situation, and i'd think better suspension would do the same (more dampening)... i'd try stiffening the tranny mounts with some "3M window-weld" and possibly checking out the pitch rod and bushing.

Now that i think about it, i'm wondering if a lower profile tire would make a difference?

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Mon May 10, 2004 2:54 am

what about grp n mounts like greg suggested?

NuwanD · Post by **NuwanD** » Mon May 10, 2004 3:08 am

the group N or sti engine mounts would definately stiffen things up but I always like to shoot for the "el cheapo" options before putting some cash down

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Mon May 10, 2004 3:27 am

What about a Whiteline Anti-Lift Kit?

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Mon May 10, 2004 5:09 am

I got around the wheel hop by being smoother with the clutch and gas than normally required. Pitch stopper attached or removed made no difference to mine, nor did newer engine and transmission mounts. I also have GR-2s, but it was worse with stock struts.

Steve

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Mon May 10, 2004 3:18 pm

My crx used to do that when i'd launch it hard, but not hard enough to burn out. It was dumped, i'm assuming it was just the engine mounts.

Your guys' problem is you're not launching high enough. :-p

Brat4by4 · Post by **Brat4by4** » Mon May 10, 2004 3:24 pm

This is a common 2wd problem. You can alleviate (but not eliminate) it with stiffer struts and/or heavier wheels.

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Mon May 10, 2004 3:28 pm

i wish i could do an all wheel burnout

greg donovan · Post by **greg donovan** » Mon May 10, 2004 5:58 pm

will the GN tranny mounts fit the 2wd unit?
it sounds like i just need a little less of the long skinny pedal on the right to get the best results in combination w/stiffening up the mounts.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Mon May 10, 2004 6:09 pm

Well, since nobody seems interested in talking about the ALK, I'll add all I know:

From what I understand, it basically increases front camber a bit. That reduces the tendency of the front of the car to lift up on acceleration and of the inside wheel to lift when cornering. It's usually marketed as improving cornering; I don't know if it'll help wheel hop.

It looks like it costs in the neighborhood of $200 US, and doesn't look that hard to install; seems like you could do it in the garage or driveway in an hour or two.

NuwanD · Post by **NuwanD** » Mon May 10, 2004 6:48 pm

i'm interested

actually i believe the ALK adds some positive castor to the front end of the car (closer to a shopping cart)... great for turn in, less nose dive and lift under braking and acceleration, and i believe with our suspension design it would allow for more bump steer as well...

in regards to the wheel hop it seems as though more positive castor which essentially moves the wheel further back in the wheel well would allow for slightly more weight to be over the front wheels and i guess that would help with the wheel hop... but i think the increase in castor is only increased 1.5 to 2 degrees over stock so the weight difference would only be marginal

think i'm going to look into this some more tomorrow

Brat4by4 · Post by **Brat4by4** » Mon May 10, 2004 6:57 pm

you can almost always find these used for really cheap. people put them in and don't like it and take it out. i guess the one version adds a bit of NVH.

NuwanD · Post by **NuwanD** » Mon May 10, 2004 7:03 pm

the NVH concern is from the stiff bushing they use in the kit... but now they offer 2 or 3 bushing hardnesses from oem-ish to rock hard

greg donovan · Post by **greg donovan** » Mon May 10, 2004 7:44 pm

are the perrin and whiteline kits similar

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Tue May 11, 2004 12:27 am

Ah, yes, I meant castor. I don't know why I wrote camber... adding positive camber wouldn't be too helpful.

biggreen96 · Post by **biggreen96** » Tue Jul 20, 2004 9:35 am

suspension bushings play a big role in wheel hop too. And the car wil feel tight again.

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how to get rid of wheel hop

how to get rid of wheel hop