Error code 24...

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Fri May 21, 2004 12:43 am

Ran the check, and the Air Control Valve is throwing a code (which is causing my fuel cut, and likely causing "low-boost-mode")

So, what the hell is this thing, where is it, how much to replace it, and all that jazz.

I hit fuel cut this morning, and the car is running at 5psi.

I'd like to get this taken care of ASAP. Anyone know what's up?

Post by **Legacy777** » Fri May 21, 2004 2:18 am

idle air control valve controls engine idle

pics
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... P_2470.JPG

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Fri May 21, 2004 2:26 am

Should I replace that, or is it just dirty?

How much do those go for? Where do I get one?

What do I clean it with? Carb cleaner? Electrical connection cleaner?

LegacyT · Post by **LegacyT** » Fri May 21, 2004 3:41 am

you can clean it, but once you clean it once your gonna have to keep cleaning it every little while. They come factory coated with an anti-carbon buildup coating applied. I think there is a special IAC cleaner made by GM which subaru recommends which has a special anti-varnish characteristic so that you don't have to clean it as often.

Mark,

Post by **Legacy777** » Fri May 21, 2004 2:10 pm

hmm....didn't know that.

I think mine needs to be cleaned again...idle has been cranky.

Mark, can you try and find out what this cleaner from gm is...or possibly a part #?

Thanks

LegacyT · Post by **LegacyT** » Fri May 21, 2004 10:06 pm

I remember reading bout it in a newer Subaru FSM. I'll look into it.

Mark,

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Sun May 23, 2004 8:39 pm

If I were to replace it, where can I get one? Can I clean it with just carb cleaner? How?

LegacyT · Post by **LegacyT** » Sun May 23, 2004 10:18 pm

I'd get one from a dealer, and yes you can clean it with carb cleaner. Just disconnect the hose on that goes down to it and spray into it.

Or remove the whole assembly and clean it, whichever u prefer.

Mark,

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Sun May 23, 2004 10:53 pm

Any idea on price?

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Mon May 24, 2004 10:18 am

A lot.

The turbo IAC valve is different from non-turbos, and costs somewhere in the vicinity of three hundred dollars.

entirelyturbo · Post by **entirelyturbo** » Mon May 24, 2004 2:57 pm

Yep, them suckers ain't cheap. I found out what I did wrong with my old one, I just put the solenoid back on it without adjusting it at all left or right, which caused my idle to be so low.

I just bought a new valve for $362 to get it out of my hair, and while it solved all the problems, I was eating beans for the next week

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Mon May 24, 2004 10:24 pm

$362 my nuts. I'll just get some carb cleaner and spray this bitch clean.

entirelyturbo · Post by **entirelyturbo** » Tue May 25, 2004 12:29 am

Phil, that's another way to f*&% it up. Be careful!

I would actually suggest using brake cleaner instead, because that will evaporate and leave no residue to gum up the mechanics of the valve.

scottzg · Post by **scottzg** » Tue May 25, 2004 12:37 am

BAC5.2 wrote:$362 my nuts. I'll just get some carb cleaner and spray this bitch clean.

this post is hilarious.

Post by **Legacy777** » Tue May 25, 2004 3:27 am

the rotor valve IAC valves are ok to clean....or at least they were ok to clean when I did mine. The recipricating valves are probably better off not cleaned....or something...

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Tue May 25, 2004 4:00 am

Well damn.

I just sprayed some carb cleaner, and it seemed to clean things up a bit. I did it earlier and everything seemed OK for the few miles I drove after I cleaned it. It took a bit to crank over after I sprayed it though, kinda freaked me out, but no worries.

Then, pulling out of my buddies driveway, on comes the CEL. Plug the blacks, and I get the same error code. 24. Maybe it's a sign, the opposite of what Douglas Adams was trying to say.

At any rate, Carb cleaner didn't fix my problem and I will go to pep-boys tomorrow to get some brake cleaner and give that a shot.

Right now it appears that I am up a "crick" without a paddle. Either brake cleaner works, or I am out $362 which would just make my fu@&ing day.

legacy92ej22t · Post by **legacy92ej22t** » Tue May 25, 2004 4:18 am

Ya, I've been plagued with on and off IAC problems too. I've never had it throw a CEL on me but it's been in my R-mode checks before.

I got my new O2 sensor in, it's doing the same thing as the old setup!

Super rough idle with low vac readings, -15 inHg like a vac leak (but there isn't, trust me), and runs lean and fast as a mo-fo under WOT. I'm running in safe mode again with it unhooked and then vac is steady at -19 inHg . I'm beginning to wonder if my ECU is bad. Fuckin' car...

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Tue May 25, 2004 4:30 am

Damn Matt, I remember my vac was reading super low (right around -15/16 inHg) and I traced it back to a leaking throttle body gasket. Replaced the gasket, and it's solid at -19 inHg. I think the gasket was like $3 or something stupid like that.

My Idle is solid as a rock, until the IAC starts to act up. Then the car will idle at 2k, and then it'll stall out. It'll also act weird under throttle when that happens, so it seems like the valve sticks open (causing a high idle and erratic throttle response), then it'll stick shut, causing it to stall out.

legacy92ej22t · Post by **legacy92ej22t** » Tue May 25, 2004 4:40 am

It's a solid -19 inHg when I unhook the O2 sensor from the wring harness. As soon as I hook it back up it idles like shit and almost stalls and I get -15 to -10 inHg

. Then if I unhook it it's fine again. I'll tell you what though. If you thought my car was fast before I should take you on a couple pulls with the O2 sensor hooked up, holy hell it pulls super hard. I know it waaaay leaned out though so it's a kinda scarey. [nervous laugh] Hehehe..hehe... [/nervous laugh]

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Tue May 25, 2004 4:46 am

you might be better off with an iac valve from the jy, if brake cleaner does you no good. Least then you'd only be out 20-30 for a while.

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Tue May 25, 2004 4:58 am

Yea, but the downside is that Vikash said the valves aren't the same between N/A and Turbo cars.

Local heap doesn't have any Turbo's so I'm SOL unless someone knows of a Turbo yard.

Matt - Your car is WAY fast in safe mode. I wonder what the look on that guy's face was that day. "White. WRX wheels. Fast. Goddamn." I can't imagine it being much faster. You really need to get the EGT installed though, and if you fear running really lean, an unshielded probe (for fast readings). You wouldn't want to fry your piston rings, you know?

THAWA · Post by **THAWA** » Tue May 25, 2004 5:06 am

hmm, maybe matt monson has one, he's selling a manifold.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Tue May 25, 2004 6:32 am

It might be possible to modify an IAC valve from a 90-91 4EAT or any 92-94 to fit a turbo. The difference appears to be entirely in the shape of the inlet nipple. Some hose elbows or something might do it. You might even be able to cut the nipple off the turbo one and weld it onto the non-turbo one.

Post by **Legacy777** » Tue May 25, 2004 2:31 pm

It sounds like you have an issue with the electrical portion of the IAC valve. It sounds like the mechanical is working alright. Other issue is the wiring for the IAC valve may be bad. I'd suggest checking all the wiring, and also test the electrical magnet portion to see if it's bad.

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Tue May 25, 2004 4:47 pm

Yea, I don't know how to do that, lol.

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Error code 24...

Error code 24...