here ya go!
first obviously raise the rear of the car and put it on jackstands. the way to findout if your bearings are bad is simple. first, spin the wheel, any grinding noise? second grab the top and bottom of the wheel and give it some hard shakes, a good wheel bearing should allow no lateral movement and no grinding sound.
steps to removal: first, remove the wheel, and unstake the wheel nut in the hub. use a punch to get it loose. Then put the wheel(s) back on and lower the car back down if you dont have an impact air wrench. with the wheels on the ground remove the wheel nut and raise the car back up and put it on stands again. remove the brake caliper (suspend with a coat hanger out of the way) and the caliper mount, called the "bridge". then remove the brake disc. after all that, remove the two bolts holding the strut on, the LONG bolt and nut and the short bolt that holds the trailing arm. the whole knuckle/hub assy should slide off into your hands with not too much drama.
dissassembly: FOR THIS WHLOE PROCESS YOU WILL NEED A PRESS, HYDROLIC OR MANUAL. hopefully you arent reading this while you are doing it.... GRRR. first press out the hub with the spline in it... thats the part that the disc and wheel attach too. this whole time you will have to get creative with how to support and press at the same time. now you can see all the seals you need to remove, hopefully you have gotten all 3 and the bearing ahead of time. if not it is helpful when you do get them to compare to the old ones, so either way is ok in my book.the inside (facing towards the rear diff) has two seals, one dust seal, and one oil seal. the dust seal is closer to the diff and has a lip to it. the lip should be facing IN TOWARDS THE DIFFERENTIAL, if it faces towards the wheel or is torn, etc, theres your problem. remember to aim it right when you reinstall it. under the oil seal you will find (once you clean all the crap o
re-assembly: first remove that little "keeper" that the bearing is shipped with, but dont loose it. the bearing should come apart into 3 pieces. clean out all the shipping lightweight grease, repack with wheel bearing greese and reassemble with the little keeper. now press it into the knuckle (easy to say, but takes some work!). make sure its totally seated and make sure you mainly press on the outside of the bearing (race) when pressing. once that is seated install your snap ring (good way to tell the bearing is seated, snap ring goes in!). and load up the seals with grease. dont install the dust seal until everything is pressed in so you dont ruin anything. then flip ove rthe assembly and press the hub into the knuckle and seat that all the way down. lastly install that dust seal FACING TOWARD THE DIFF lip out.. and reinstall on the car. spin the wheel nut down, install all bolts, and put the wh
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wheel bearing write up
Moderators: Helpinators, Moderators
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aludeman
wheel bearing write up
--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., subaruracer755@c... wrote:
> here ya go!
>
> first obviously raise the rear of the car and put it on jackstands.
> the way to findout if your bearings are bad is simple. first, spin the
> wheel, any grinding noise? second grab the top and bottom of the wheel and
> give it some hard shakes, a good wheel bearing should allow no lateral
> movement and no grinding sound.
> steps to removal: first, remove the wheel, and unstake the wheel nut
> in the hub. use a punch to get it loose. Then put the wheel(s) back on and
> lower the car back down if you dont have an impact air wrench. with the
> wheels on the ground remove the wheel nut and raise the car back up and put
> it on stands again. remove the brake caliper (suspend with a coat hanger out
> of the way) and the caliper mount, called the "bridge". then remove the
> brake disc. after all that, remove the two bolts holding the strut on, the
> LONG bolt and nut and the short bolt that holds the trailing arm. the whole
> knuckle/hub assy should slide off into your hands with not too much drama.
> dissassembly: FOR THIS WHLOE PROCESS YOU WILL NEED A PRESS, HYDROLIC
> OR MANUAL. hopefully you arent reading this while you are doing it.... GRRR.
> first press out the hub with the spline in it... thats the part that the
> disc and wheel attach too. this whole time you will have to get creative
> with how to support and press at the same time. now you can see all the
> seals you need to remove, hopefully you have gotten all 3 and the bearing
> ahead of time. if not it is helpful when you do get them to compare to the
> old ones, so either way is ok in my book.the inside (facing towards the rear
> diff) has two seals, one dust seal, and one oil seal. the dust seal is
> closer to the diff and has a lip to it. the lip should be facing IN TOWARDS
> THE DIFFERENTIAL, if it faces towards the wheel or is torn, etc, theres your
> problem. remember to aim it right when you reinstall it. under the oil seal
> you will find (once you clean all the crap out of there) a snap ring. remove
> this and the seal on the other side of the knuckle and now you are ready to
> press it out. once the bearing is out clean EVERYTHING you can find..
> re-assembly: first remove that little "keeper" that the bearing is
> shipped with, but dont loose it. the bearing should come apart into 3
> pieces. clean out all the shipping lightweight grease, repack with wheel
> bearing greese and reassemble with the little keeper. now press it into the
> knuckle (easy to say, but takes some work!). make sure its totally seated
> and make sure you mainly press on the outside of the bearing (race) when
> pressing. once that is seated install your snap ring (good way to tell the
> bearing is seated, snap ring goes in!). and load up the seals with grease.
> dont install the dust seal until everything is pressed in so you dont ruin
> anything. then flip ove rthe assembly and press the hub into the knuckle and
> seat that all the way down. lastly install that dust seal FACING TOWARD THE
> DIFF lip out.. and reinstall on the car. spin the wheel nut down, install
> all bolts, and put the wheel on lower the car and tighten the wheel nut to
> 150 ft/lbs and stake it. time for a test drive.... and a beer!
i never read my yahoo mail but randomily i did and here are some other tips related to the wheel bearing write up.
lex
"david maness" <layank54@yahoo.com> said
>just to clarify, subaruracer said to use high
>performance EP grease..which is red..also the reason
>the subaru parts guy said to use the new axle shaft
>nut and snap ring is wear and tear or fatigue on the
>old parts. hope it works......david
"david maness" <layank54@yahoo.com> also said:
>i was just discussing rear wheel bearings with
>subaruracer755 and problems associated with
>them..first off make sure you get the complete setup
>from a subaru parts dealer...all three seals,new snap
>ring,new shaft nut,and new bearing assembly.i made the
>mistake of buying bearing and 2 seals from bond auto
>and did not realize a third seal was needed until we
>had everything taken apart.best go to a repair shop
>you know well as they should have the sliding hammer
>bearing puller to remove the bearing from the
>knuckle.subaruracer755 told me that its imperative to
>put the bearing unit in the parts washer to remove all
>the shipping grease and repack it with a highgrade
>salt resistant marine grease..just what the subaru
>parts guy told me all of the mechs do in their shop..i
>just wish i had asked before i replaced the first
>one.also do not torque down the shaft nut with an
>airwrench..use a torque wrench, no more than
>80lbs.goodluck and ask questions before hand..it will
>save you having to do it again 8 weeks later!!
------------------------ ---------------------~-->
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> here ya go!
>
> first obviously raise the rear of the car and put it on jackstands.
> the way to findout if your bearings are bad is simple. first, spin the
> wheel, any grinding noise? second grab the top and bottom of the wheel and
> give it some hard shakes, a good wheel bearing should allow no lateral
> movement and no grinding sound.
> steps to removal: first, remove the wheel, and unstake the wheel nut
> in the hub. use a punch to get it loose. Then put the wheel(s) back on and
> lower the car back down if you dont have an impact air wrench. with the
> wheels on the ground remove the wheel nut and raise the car back up and put
> it on stands again. remove the brake caliper (suspend with a coat hanger out
> of the way) and the caliper mount, called the "bridge". then remove the
> brake disc. after all that, remove the two bolts holding the strut on, the
> LONG bolt and nut and the short bolt that holds the trailing arm. the whole
> knuckle/hub assy should slide off into your hands with not too much drama.
> dissassembly: FOR THIS WHLOE PROCESS YOU WILL NEED A PRESS, HYDROLIC
> OR MANUAL. hopefully you arent reading this while you are doing it.... GRRR.
> first press out the hub with the spline in it... thats the part that the
> disc and wheel attach too. this whole time you will have to get creative
> with how to support and press at the same time. now you can see all the
> seals you need to remove, hopefully you have gotten all 3 and the bearing
> ahead of time. if not it is helpful when you do get them to compare to the
> old ones, so either way is ok in my book.the inside (facing towards the rear
> diff) has two seals, one dust seal, and one oil seal. the dust seal is
> closer to the diff and has a lip to it. the lip should be facing IN TOWARDS
> THE DIFFERENTIAL, if it faces towards the wheel or is torn, etc, theres your
> problem. remember to aim it right when you reinstall it. under the oil seal
> you will find (once you clean all the crap out of there) a snap ring. remove
> this and the seal on the other side of the knuckle and now you are ready to
> press it out. once the bearing is out clean EVERYTHING you can find..
> re-assembly: first remove that little "keeper" that the bearing is
> shipped with, but dont loose it. the bearing should come apart into 3
> pieces. clean out all the shipping lightweight grease, repack with wheel
> bearing greese and reassemble with the little keeper. now press it into the
> knuckle (easy to say, but takes some work!). make sure its totally seated
> and make sure you mainly press on the outside of the bearing (race) when
> pressing. once that is seated install your snap ring (good way to tell the
> bearing is seated, snap ring goes in!). and load up the seals with grease.
> dont install the dust seal until everything is pressed in so you dont ruin
> anything. then flip ove rthe assembly and press the hub into the knuckle and
> seat that all the way down. lastly install that dust seal FACING TOWARD THE
> DIFF lip out.. and reinstall on the car. spin the wheel nut down, install
> all bolts, and put the wheel on lower the car and tighten the wheel nut to
> 150 ft/lbs and stake it. time for a test drive.... and a beer!
i never read my yahoo mail but randomily i did and here are some other tips related to the wheel bearing write up.
lex
"david maness" <layank54@yahoo.com> said
>just to clarify, subaruracer said to use high
>performance EP grease..which is red..also the reason
>the subaru parts guy said to use the new axle shaft
>nut and snap ring is wear and tear or fatigue on the
>old parts. hope it works......david
"david maness" <layank54@yahoo.com> also said:
>i was just discussing rear wheel bearings with
>subaruracer755 and problems associated with
>them..first off make sure you get the complete setup
>from a subaru parts dealer...all three seals,new snap
>ring,new shaft nut,and new bearing assembly.i made the
>mistake of buying bearing and 2 seals from bond auto
>and did not realize a third seal was needed until we
>had everything taken apart.best go to a repair shop
>you know well as they should have the sliding hammer
>bearing puller to remove the bearing from the
>knuckle.subaruracer755 told me that its imperative to
>put the bearing unit in the parts washer to remove all
>the shipping grease and repack it with a highgrade
>salt resistant marine grease..just what the subaru
>parts guy told me all of the mechs do in their shop..i
>just wish i had asked before i replaced the first
>one.also do not torque down the shaft nut with an
>airwrench..use a torque wrench, no more than
>80lbs.goodluck and ask questions before hand..it will
>save you having to do it again 8 weeks later!!
------------------------ ---------------------~-->
Free $5 Love Reading
Risk Free!
http://us.click.yahoo.com/3PCXaC/PfREAA ... /XoTolB/TM
---------------------------------------------------------------------~->
To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com