I bought a AT 92 Legacy Turbo back in October 2002. I have nothing but respect for this thing, cause I picked it up for $1K, and it can do circles around most cars of its same age.
Anyway, one of the problems with this car is that the AWD is always engaged, meaning stuck in manual mode.. When I make sharp turns the rear tires slip. Not a huge problem, cause I only notice when going through drive thrus' and parking. Once I am driving regularly, everything is normal.
Any idea's on how to fix it? what it is? Or the costs?
Sounds like pressure is leaking past a seal in the transmission and building to the point that the clutches are always engauged. Does your power light ever flash when you start the car?
The power light always flashes when i start the car. it flashes for about 5-10 secs and then stops.
ciper wrote:Sounds like pressure is leaking past a seal in the transmission and building to the point that the clutches are always engauged. Does your power light ever flash when you start the car?
I'll swing by crappy tire (canadian tire for thsoe who dont know) and I'll try it out. Anything is worth a shot.
gt tankie wrote:Try popping a 15amp fuse into the fwd fuse holder located rightside under the bonnet against the fire wall and see if that takes it out of 4wd.
back up. the power light should never flash? mine comes on for a few seconds every time i start it up, doesnt flash any particular pattern though. does this mean that there is something wrong with my car?
'99 Impreza L 2.2 powa!
"If at first you don't succeed, failure may be your style."
If it just turns on, that is showing the bulb isnt burnt out. All the lights should illuminate either at accessorie or just after start (tail lamp, oil, etc).
I popped in the 15 amp fuse into the FWD slot on friday. At first i thought it was an instant success, but it was definetly a placebo.
However, as the weekend wore on, I found that the power being distributed to the rear was less and less. It looks like no mechanical power is being sent to the rear now, but the ceased cluth plates are starting to come loose and feeling better. Maybe that 50 cent fuse did the trick..ha ha
I will keep you informed. But I am going to swing by my mechanic today as I have to replace the O2 sensor and machine the brakes, so i will see if he can tell me the code being generated.
to answer your question PAF, I am from the Toronto area.
read how to get the codes. That will tell you exactly what your problem is.
Allright..I performed the test as per steps sent. When I ran the test from D to 1, I got 2 long flashes and followed by 6 quick flashes. From 1 to D, I got 2 long flashes followed by 4 quick flashes. Does that mean error code 24?
Very cool that subaru put this kind of diagnostics right into there cars.
I've recently had my extension housing off to check that exact component and here is an easier way to check it.
Identify the wire that goes to the duty solenoid c and disconnect it from the wiring harness( at the plug) next get a multimeter and place one probe onto the appropriate pin and the other probe onto the trans housing.
You should get a reading of between 10-15ohms. Mine was 13 ohms.
Anything different and the coils in the solenoid are most likely toast.
A dead short may mean the wire is grounded before the solenoid but thats unlikely. To check that it's dismantling time.
If you apply 12 v dc through that same circuit and place your ear against the extension housing you should hear the solenoid click as you turn the current on and off. Don't leave it on too long as it is a duty solenoid which operates on pulses from the tcu. Pulse code modulation I believe.
Hope it helps to eliminate one possible cause. I.m still fighting mine.
ALthough Im not saying to do it I think you are okay running a constant 12 volts to the solenoid. Thats what the FWD fuse does if I remember correctly. (or actually close to 14 volts since the car is running)
Yes, ciper, you're right; that's what the fuse does.
Hum. I wonder if exceeding the normal duty cycle of that solenoid is one of the reasons Subaru says not to drive around with that fuse in all the time.
Hmmm, good point there.
I've got a 4 day weekend starting tomorrow and plan to to some electrical diagnostics on that circuit right back to the tcu with a multimeter.
I hope to have a solution in 4 days or so cause the snow is starting to fall on Mt Ruapehu and it'll be awd time.
-5C frost last night.
Had mine apart today and checked all things electrical from the tcu back to the duty solenoid c. Here are my findings:
Tx in drive, no fuse, no accellerator, duty c receives 9.5vdc
full accellerator, 0vdc
today as I have to replace the O2 sensor and machine the brakes, so i will see if he can tell me the code being generated.
