Just has the CEL shows up finally, there are 6 code shows, 22,23,24,31,35,49.
Since the engine is from japan, so if I have to replace the parts where shold I buy those parts for the EJ20T engine?
BTW, I have CEL turn-on then my accl goes really bad so what will be the problem?
Thanks for help
Ben
CEL turn-on on my EJ20T engine!
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ej22t
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CEL turn-on on my EJ20T engine!
92 Legacy turbo with EJ20G engine swap \(^0^)/
clear the codes, then drive the car for a day or so, recheck codes and see what codes come back.
Then work on trying to diagnose the problem.
Then work on trying to diagnose the problem.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
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vrg3
- Vikash
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Re: CEL turn-on on my EJ20T engine!
A lot of the parts will be similar or the same as the North American cars.ej22t wrote:Just has the CEL shows up finally, there are 6 code shows, 22,23,24,31,35,49.
Since the engine is from japan, so if I have to replace the parts where shold I buy those parts for the EJ20T engine?
BTW, I have CEL turn-on then my accl goes really bad so what will be the problem?
Thanks for help
Ben
I second Josh's suggestion of clearing the codes and stuff. Some of those may have been in memory for a long time from when you were installing the engine and setting things up through trial and error and stuff.
One thing -- I think the EJ20G turbo engines (or at least some of them) used the black plastic-housing MAF sensor as opposed to the aluminum one that EJ22T engines had. So, it is possible that you're using the wrong MAF sensor. If you need a plastic-housing sensor I think I have an extra one.
Let us know which -- if any -- codes come back after resetting and driving.
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ej22t
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Thanks for you guys fast reply, one think I haven't tell, the engine is EJ20G but the installer using the US EJ22T ECU and wire harness to make the car run!!
So, what should I going to buy it?
BTW, just back from local junkyard and found out some of the 91 Legacy NA wagon do you know there are any parts that will fits to the turbo?
How about the MAP in Auto will fits to 5spd car?
Thanks for share all the information!
Ben
So, what should I going to buy it?
BTW, just back from local junkyard and found out some of the 91 Legacy NA wagon do you know there are any parts that will fits to the turbo?
How about the MAP in Auto will fits to 5spd car?
Thanks for share all the information!
Ben
92 Legacy turbo with EJ20G engine swap \(^0^)/
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vrg3
- Vikash
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Oh, you're using the EJ22T engine management...
In that case you should be using all the original EJ22T sensors. That should make things a good deal easier for you. However, you need to be aware that even if you resolve any and all sensor problems, you're not going to have the engine running as well as a stock EJ20G in a WRX would, because the ECU's just not programmed right.
If your engine runs, you probably don't need to buy a new MAF sensor. At worst you may need to clean it out.
As far as I know, no car other than a Legacy Turbo will have the MAP sensor for your car, but why do you need a MAP sensor? None of those codes correspond to the pressure sensor. Don't you have your stock one?
The knock sensor may be damaged, but it's not too expensive to replace. It's possible you have the original EJ20G sensor and it's not hard for them to get damaged in shipping. I think boostjunkie has a brand new one that he isn't using so you might want to ask him about that.
In that case you should be using all the original EJ22T sensors. That should make things a good deal easier for you. However, you need to be aware that even if you resolve any and all sensor problems, you're not going to have the engine running as well as a stock EJ20G in a WRX would, because the ECU's just not programmed right.
If your engine runs, you probably don't need to buy a new MAF sensor. At worst you may need to clean it out.
As far as I know, no car other than a Legacy Turbo will have the MAP sensor for your car, but why do you need a MAP sensor? None of those codes correspond to the pressure sensor. Don't you have your stock one?
The knock sensor may be damaged, but it's not too expensive to replace. It's possible you have the original EJ20G sensor and it's not hard for them to get damaged in shipping. I think boostjunkie has a brand new one that he isn't using so you might want to ask him about that.
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ej22t
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As for the typo, the correct CEL code are: 22,23,24,31,42,45,49
I was thinking to get the EJ22T's knock senser, does anyone know it will work on the EJ20G engine?
Also since the car has bad accl feeling while step on the gas padel I suspect its the problem by the Air Control valve Code #24, can I use the one from the EJ22T?
For the MAP senser, I think I just get it wrong, I do really mean the MAF senser, thanks vrg3 to correct me!
Please keep post the suggestion or solution to solve this problem!
THanks
Ben
I was thinking to get the EJ22T's knock senser, does anyone know it will work on the EJ20G engine?
Also since the car has bad accl feeling while step on the gas padel I suspect its the problem by the Air Control valve Code #24, can I use the one from the EJ22T?
For the MAP senser, I think I just get it wrong, I do really mean the MAF senser, thanks vrg3 to correct me!
Please keep post the suggestion or solution to solve this problem!
THanks
Ben
92 Legacy turbo with EJ20G engine swap \(^0^)/
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vrg3
- Vikash
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The knock sensors are all pretty similar, but in any case, you should probably use the US-market BC/BF knock sensor mainly because of your ECU. The sensor is the same for turbos and non-turbos.
Poor acceleration when you initially press on the throttle doesn't necessarily mean the IAC valve is faulty. In fact, I'd suspect the throttle position sensor first. You did get a TPS code too. But also remember that the ECU is not the right one for your engine, and it simply won't be as good. It will get better as it learns though.
Actually, about the MAP issue... code 45 is the pressure sensor code, so you did get that code.
But have you done what Josh said and cleared the codes? It's likely that the installer that did your engine swap tested the engine when the management harness wasn't fully in place or when a ground was missing or something and so the ECU noticed a lot of missing or messed up sensors. Even after fixing those things the codes would still be stored in memory even if they're not active.
It's important that you clear the codes and then see which ones come back.
Do you know what sensors were used where? Is it possible that some of your sensors are from the donor car rather than from your original setup? You may want to ask the installer for more information about that.
Poor acceleration when you initially press on the throttle doesn't necessarily mean the IAC valve is faulty. In fact, I'd suspect the throttle position sensor first. You did get a TPS code too. But also remember that the ECU is not the right one for your engine, and it simply won't be as good. It will get better as it learns though.
Actually, about the MAP issue... code 45 is the pressure sensor code, so you did get that code.
But have you done what Josh said and cleared the codes? It's likely that the installer that did your engine swap tested the engine when the management harness wasn't fully in place or when a ground was missing or something and so the ECU noticed a lot of missing or messed up sensors. Even after fixing those things the codes would still be stored in memory even if they're not active.
It's important that you clear the codes and then see which ones come back.
Do you know what sensors were used where? Is it possible that some of your sensors are from the donor car rather than from your original setup? You may want to ask the installer for more information about that.
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ej22t
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Thanks for your replyvrg3, I just disconnected the (-) termannal last night and restart the car this morning and then driven whole day and still have the same problem occur, then I check the code when I off work at home and it remain the same!
For the accl. feeling, its kind like jumping back and forward what should I do on the TPS code, anything I could solve it?
I did clean the MAF senser last month and I don't think it will be get dirt that fast, as long ask the car could run, I don't think its the problem on those MAF senser too.
Are there any good way to clear all the stored code from the ECU?
I did try Josh's way already, another way to do it?
For more detail, the car would start and runing fine but suddenly, when the CEL turns on the car like cutting gas, I can't go hard on the gas padel, then I turnoff the car and restart it again and the CEL is off for the entire run unless I stop the car more then 10mins the same problem just come back!!!
Does anyone has this kind of problem before?
Ben
For the accl. feeling, its kind like jumping back and forward what should I do on the TPS code, anything I could solve it?
I did clean the MAF senser last month and I don't think it will be get dirt that fast, as long ask the car could run, I don't think its the problem on those MAF senser too.
Are there any good way to clear all the stored code from the ECU?
I did try Josh's way already, another way to do it?
For more detail, the car would start and runing fine but suddenly, when the CEL turns on the car like cutting gas, I can't go hard on the gas padel, then I turnoff the car and restart it again and the CEL is off for the entire run unless I stop the car more then 10mins the same problem just come back!!!
Does anyone has this kind of problem before?
Ben
92 Legacy turbo with EJ20G engine swap \(^0^)/
Which way did you try, by connecting both the green and black connectors, or by pulling fuse 16 for the ECU/TCU?
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
Try the black and green connector method.
From my site:
How to reset the ECU
To erase trouble codes from the computer you have two ways. The first I have not verified, but I'm sure it works.
ECU clear memory procedure is as follows for auto and manual transmissions:
With engine at operating temperature, turn engine off. Place gear shift lever into park (auto transmission cars only).
Locate the two ECU check connectors, for most cars they are located under the steering column and consist of a black plastic male and female connector, and a green male female connector. The exact location of the connectors varies with the different year models, but generally they are located under the steering column on the drivers side.
NOTE: sometimes they are still taped over with some small amount of plastic tape, so look hard, they will be there!
With the ignition OFF connect black to black and green to green.
Turn on ignition, do not start the engine, (and for auto transmission, cycle the gearshift lever from park to neutral and back to park ), depress the accelerator pedal to full throttle and hold for a few seconds, and then release. Start engine and then drive for at least one minute, keeping road speed above 10 mph.
ECU is now re-set.
At this point the check engine light should start to flash the all clear signal (steady 1/2 second interval flashes). If the check engine light does not flash, or indicates some other sequence, there is a fault present in the system, and should be checked for necessary repairs.
Once done, stop the car and turn off the engine.
Disconnect the plugs.
From my site:
How to reset the ECU
To erase trouble codes from the computer you have two ways. The first I have not verified, but I'm sure it works.
ECU clear memory procedure is as follows for auto and manual transmissions:
With engine at operating temperature, turn engine off. Place gear shift lever into park (auto transmission cars only).
Locate the two ECU check connectors, for most cars they are located under the steering column and consist of a black plastic male and female connector, and a green male female connector. The exact location of the connectors varies with the different year models, but generally they are located under the steering column on the drivers side.
NOTE: sometimes they are still taped over with some small amount of plastic tape, so look hard, they will be there!
With the ignition OFF connect black to black and green to green.
Turn on ignition, do not start the engine, (and for auto transmission, cycle the gearshift lever from park to neutral and back to park ), depress the accelerator pedal to full throttle and hold for a few seconds, and then release. Start engine and then drive for at least one minute, keeping road speed above 10 mph.
ECU is now re-set.
At this point the check engine light should start to flash the all clear signal (steady 1/2 second interval flashes). If the check engine light does not flash, or indicates some other sequence, there is a fault present in the system, and should be checked for necessary repairs.
Once done, stop the car and turn off the engine.
Disconnect the plugs.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
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ej22t
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Just did the ECU reset by Josh's method (thanks for your help Josh!!)
The new code now down to 3 its 32,35,45
Since the 32 is the O2 senser, does its the most suspest to make the car has idel problem and turn on the check engine light?
Since the car is running 260000km and I know I never replace the O2 senser will it be the most trouble maker???
Ben
The new code now down to 3 its 32,35,45
Since the 32 is the O2 senser, does its the most suspest to make the car has idel problem and turn on the check engine light?
Since the car is running 260000km and I know I never replace the O2 senser will it be the most trouble maker???
Ben
92 Legacy turbo with EJ20G engine swap \(^0^)/
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vrg3
- Vikash
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Hmm... with regard to the oxygen sensor, I would normally ask you if the rough running problems go away if you disconnect the sensor. In this case, though, I can't recommend it, because the ECU will need the feedback from the sensor in order to learn how to run this engine correctly. So, maybe you should just get a new sensor since they're not really all that expensive and they're easy to install. If you use a generic one, be sure it's still a 4-wire sensor so that it can heat up quickly. That way it will provide a signal sooner.
35 is the canister purge solenoid valve code, and it came up before too... It's not uncommon for these to go bad, so you may want to do a search on it and read up on it. Make sure your installer actually connected it up correctly first, before you replace it.
45 is for your pressure sensor and/or pressure exchange solenoid. You may want to start by getting a vacuum diagram and making sure it's all hooked up correctly. The solenoid is the same as on newer automatic Subarus but the sensor is different and it's hard to find used. I'm working on a cheap replacement but for now you'd probably have to buy an expensive new one from a dealer. It's unlikely that the sensor is bad, though, since they're pretty sturdy.
35 is the canister purge solenoid valve code, and it came up before too... It's not uncommon for these to go bad, so you may want to do a search on it and read up on it. Make sure your installer actually connected it up correctly first, before you replace it.
45 is for your pressure sensor and/or pressure exchange solenoid. You may want to start by getting a vacuum diagram and making sure it's all hooked up correctly. The solenoid is the same as on newer automatic Subarus but the sensor is different and it's hard to find used. I'm working on a cheap replacement but for now you'd probably have to buy an expensive new one from a dealer. It's unlikely that the sensor is bad, though, since they're pretty sturdy.
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ej22t
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Today the car seems more worst, the CEL turns on more sooner for the last couple days, everytime when I turn off the car and restart it the CEL will gone, but today, it could start but after few miles run the CEL just keep turn on........ 
Vrg3, thanks for your suggestion and I think I will going to install the O2 senser first, but for the senser you said, it should be 4 wire, but according the Bosch catalog that I have in my hand, it just have the pics with only 3 wires, could you tell me where can I find the 4 wire one and how much is it usually cost?, Also what brand is it made?
Thanks for more help!
Ben
Vrg3, thanks for your suggestion and I think I will going to install the O2 senser first, but for the senser you said, it should be 4 wire, but according the Bosch catalog that I have in my hand, it just have the pics with only 3 wires, could you tell me where can I find the 4 wire one and how much is it usually cost?, Also what brand is it made?
Thanks for more help!
Ben
92 Legacy turbo with EJ20G engine swap \(^0^)/
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ej22t
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Hi Guys. just fixed the CEL problem (maybe)
I think the problem are made by the TPS since I grap a used one from a 92 NA Legacy wagon in Junkyard.
Now I just plug it to the harness without install on the TB (yep just plug it alone) and the CEL turn off, its been 2 days ago and the car back to normal, the idel and rev runs very good now and now I could tell the EJ22 senser could fits to JDM EJ20G engine with no problem!
Ben
I think the problem are made by the TPS since I grap a used one from a 92 NA Legacy wagon in Junkyard.
Now I just plug it to the harness without install on the TB (yep just plug it alone) and the CEL turn off, its been 2 days ago and the car back to normal, the idel and rev runs very good now and now I could tell the EJ22 senser could fits to JDM EJ20G engine with no problem!
Ben
92 Legacy turbo with EJ20G engine swap \(^0^)/