i am in the process of researching the path to power for my '94 SS.
this is what i have gathered so far in no particular order and no regard for cost:
first do a total engine "tune-up," stop leaks and make sure everything is in proper working order.
boost gauge
accurate AFR gauge/wideband O2 sensor
high flow air filter
light crank pulley or LW flywheel
MBC
TMIC
walbro 255 lph fuel pump
3" DP
2.5"-3" exhaust
FCD
extrude hone the intake manifold and heads
bore out the throttle body
water injection
higher flow injectors
piggybacks or stand alone EM
custom camshafts
here is where i get lost:
when should the injectors be replaced w/ bigger ones? reading all the injector threads makes me want to leave the car bone stock and just leave well enough alone.
can the stock ECU make use of a wideband O2 sensor? or do i need to go standalone engine management?
how much boost could i get away w/using only a MBC, water injection and a walbro pump?
its thoughts like this that make me say screw it and leave the car stock.
you just cant do one thing and leave it. everything is too interdependant on everything else being just perfect.
so, here are some mods that i "think" can be done w/out having to do anything else to the car:
light crank pulley
2.5" cat back
high flow airfilter
MBC to 10-11
boost gauge
accurate AFR gauge
the path to power for a SS
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- Fourth Gear
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the path to power for a SS
96 Impreza L sedan
97 legacy outback limited
00 Impreza RS sedan
97 legacy outback limited
00 Impreza RS sedan
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- Vikash
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Replace the injectors as soon as you switch to tunable engine management.
The stock ECU can't use the signal from a wideband oxygen sensor, but most wideband setups do have a "simulated narrowband" output that can be sent to the stock ECU so you don't have to install a new oxygen sensor bung.
A wideband setup is necessary in order to have an accurate air/fuel ratio gauge.
The stock ECU can't use the signal from a wideband oxygen sensor, but most wideband setups do have a "simulated narrowband" output that can be sent to the stock ECU so you don't have to install a new oxygen sensor bung.
A wideband setup is necessary in order to have an accurate air/fuel ratio gauge.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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- Fourth Gear
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will that simulated narrow band out put give the stock ecu better information than the stock O2 sensor?vrg3 wrote:Replace the injectors as soon as you switch to tunable engine management.
The stock ECU can't use the signal from a wideband oxygen sensor, but most wideband setups do have a "simulated narrowband" output that can be sent to the stock ECU so you don't have to install a new oxygen sensor bung.
A wideband setup is necessary in order to have an accurate air/fuel ratio gauge.
how much more accurate is a wideband? is it worth it if you arent pushing the limits of the fuel system?
96 Impreza L sedan
97 legacy outback limited
00 Impreza RS sedan
97 legacy outback limited
00 Impreza RS sedan
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- Vikash
- Posts: 12517
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 2:13 am
- Location: USA, OH, Cleveland (sometimes visiting DC though)
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The simulated narrowband signal will give about the same information as a real narrowband sensor's signal, except that it will probably update faster since most wideband sensors respond more quickly than normal narrowband ones do.
It is 1019783490812374029837402983708 times more accurate. A narrowband sensor really only tells you whether you're richer or leaner than stoichiometric. That's all you can rely on it to say. A wideband sensor tells you your air/fuel ratio.
It's the only actual way to know whether you're pushing the limits of the fuel system. A narrowband sensor can't really tell you.
It is 1019783490812374029837402983708 times more accurate. A narrowband sensor really only tells you whether you're richer or leaner than stoichiometric. That's all you can rely on it to say. A wideband sensor tells you your air/fuel ratio.
It's the only actual way to know whether you're pushing the limits of the fuel system. A narrowband sensor can't really tell you.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 1947
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Ok, if you are looking for some decent power without anything too complicated, you just need to do a couple of things.
K&N drop in, delete intake resonater, coffee mug resonater delete, lightweight flywheel, HD clutch & pp, and 3" turboback.
STi Group N mounts are pretty important, especially the tranny mount. The fuel pump is a good idea just because how important fuel is. The boost gauge is a must just to monitor stuff.
Air/Fuel stuff isn't necessary if you are using the stock ECU and don't exceed the fuel cutoff boost level. Which I highly don't recommend.
I personally only have the clutch/flywheel, k&n, and 3" turboback installed and the car is an absolute blast to drive. LW flywheel makes a huge difference in how the engine feels, the tranny mount also. And the turboback exhaust makes the car feel like a million bucks when hitting higher rpm.
K&N drop in, delete intake resonater, coffee mug resonater delete, lightweight flywheel, HD clutch & pp, and 3" turboback.
STi Group N mounts are pretty important, especially the tranny mount. The fuel pump is a good idea just because how important fuel is. The boost gauge is a must just to monitor stuff.
Air/Fuel stuff isn't necessary if you are using the stock ECU and don't exceed the fuel cutoff boost level. Which I highly don't recommend.
I personally only have the clutch/flywheel, k&n, and 3" turboback installed and the car is an absolute blast to drive. LW flywheel makes a huge difference in how the engine feels, the tranny mount also. And the turboback exhaust makes the car feel like a million bucks when hitting higher rpm.
1993 WMP BC6 5MT EJ22T 9psi 3.9:1 213k 205/55R16
62.6 m/s @ 0.66 bar. Gotta love boost. :)
62.6 m/s @ 0.66 bar. Gotta love boost. :)
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- Fourth Gear
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