Check engine light because of boost controller. Help

[rwcoop]

Hey. I have just fitted a manual boost controller to my rs.
I removed the factory one but cut the wires instead of unplugging it as I wanted it for something else.
By having this disconected it has triggred the check engine light which cause the engine to cut at about 10-12 psi boost.
I have tried wiring it back in, but is doing the same thing. What have I done wrong.
I did try joining the wires when it was disconected to see if it would kill the check engine light.
Have I fried something, look forward to ur reply.

ps. Is definatly the boost controller causing the problem as I got the fault code 44 out of the ecu

[legacy92ej22t]

Ya, you have to leave the oem boost controller hooked up or it will make the ECU throw a fit.

If you have it wired back in (assuming it's wired back up correctly and stuff) try resetting your ECU.

[rwcoop]

na, I shouldnt have to because im sure the engine cut is because of the check engine light. It is cutting at a lesser boost than the factory setting. Must be a saftey feature for when the sensor aint working or sumthing.
It used to be fine before I mucked around with it

[vrg3]

Matt's talking about leaving it hooked up electrically, not pneumatically.

You may have not wired it back in correctly when you reconnected it. You might want to double-check your connections.

What do you mean when you say you tried joining the wires?

[DLC]

I think he means that he tried shorting the connection, when the ECU is looking for some resistance or voltage.

Connecting the electronics back in should get rid of it.

[rwcoop]

Cheers. Yeah thats the prob, It is connected back up but still doin the same thing. May I have shorted something out inside the ecu??
I presume if their was a fuse blown, it would kill the entire ecu which it obviously hasnt as the car still goes.
Off the topic, what is a good boost setting that makes it perform but gives me a reliable engine??

[vrg3]

I hate to tell you this, but...

If you did just short together the two wires that were meant to go to the solenoid, you connected the open-collector ECU output directly to +12v. The transistor meant to switch maybe an amp or two was instead asked to switch a practically unlimited current.

Especially because no fuse blew, you probably damaged the solenoid driver and monitor circuitry in your ECU. That would explain why the ECU would fail to detect the solenoid even after reconnecting it.

If this is what happened, someone skilled with electronics might be able to patch your ECU up enough so you could run your car with that ECU and a manual boost controller, so you wouldn't have to buy a new ECU.

[rwcoop]

ur a legend cheers. Think I can get my hands on another ecu. Thanks mate