all or nothing?

Suzie-Q · Post by **Suzie-Q** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 6:37 am

ok. my cv joints are pretty damn close to being blown. i was just gonna charge it on my credit card. my credit card has $6000 left to charge with.

hmmm, i say. should i just let go of my car for two weeks and have the cv joints fixed, have it painted, tinted, lowered, have the rims and tires changed, have the tranny converted, and have a turbo and intake put on all at once since i have the money? or should i hold off and just do what's necessary to keep her driving until i have cash?

scottzg · Post by **scottzg** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 6:40 am

DO NOT GO IN TO DEBT TO MODIFY YOUR CAR.

Suzie-Q · Post by **Suzie-Q** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 6:46 am

damn. i was hoping some irresponsible people would encourage me to follow through with my clouded vision of having a tricked out car.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 6:46 am

Nope. Do not be the tool of the credit card industry.

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 6:51 am

just get the cv shafts. Who knows, in a year or so, you may even be ready to upgrade to a turbo legacy(if you want details on why I say this, IM me, I'll spell it out for you)

subawhatsubawho · Post by **subawhatsubawho** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 6:54 am

Little girl...oh the things you could learn..if you did some searching and reading.

You are gouing to need a lot more than that for the mods you mentioned.

CV joint installed (most likely need ball joint , inner and outer tireods too) $300+ just for CV joints and installation

Decent paint job with clear coat $1000.00+ (probably need body work)

Tint $150.00+ (costs extra if there is any tint on there already)

Lowering springs $200- $2,000 (depending on how you lower it)

Tires and rims $800.00 for something really nice

Tranny converted $1,500+ (parts and labor)

Assuming you are just putting a new turbo into your SS:
WRX trubo off ebay $150+
Intake $100.00 +

If you are turning an N/A car into a boosted car:

Donor car $700+ (not including delivery and parts removal)
or

EJ22T long block $500.00 EASY!!!
Turbo crossmember $100.00 + (if you can find one)
All the electronics you will need to do the swap $200 (if available)
Exhaust parts $200.00 + if available

It was mentioned one other time on here....

Just buy a complete (great running) SS and focus on it.

Should save you about $3,500.00

Tleg93 · Post by **Tleg93** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 7:26 am

Don't waste your time modding your L. Buy an SS cheap and mod it. You could do it little by little and do it yourself.

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 5:30 pm

I realized the need to upgrade to turbo legacy instead of turboing my 91 and still having a shitbox, just a slightly quicker one.

What subawhatsubawho forgot to mention are all of the other things you'll also want to upgrade when doing a turbo swap.
Sparkplugs
sparkplug wires
air box
chimney
air filter
fuel filter
oil filter
oil
etc
etc
etc

shit gets expensive

snowboarded · Post by **snowboarded** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 5:52 pm

Not to mention a new hood.
To find a SS hood will be a little tough, and then get it painted. Or cut your hood and mold in a
WRX scoop and still have to have it painted.
Not a good plan, I know, I am in debt now, some of it due to my addiction to turbo AWD fun.

subawhatsubawho · Post by **subawhatsubawho** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 7:11 pm

Yeah...what they said!

rallysam · Post by **rallysam** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 8:03 pm

That's so true, Laurel. I hate that whatever I think I'll need, it always turns out that I need 3X as much little crap once I get into it (not to mention 3X the price and 3X the time investment). That's cars for ya.

LaureltheQueen wrote:I realized the need to upgrade to turbo legacy instead of turboing my 91 and still having a shitbox, just a slightly quicker one.

What subawhatsubawho forgot to mention are all of the other things you'll also want to upgrade when doing a turbo swap.
Sparkplugs
sparkplug wires
air box
chimney
air filter
fuel filter
oil filter
oil
etc
etc
etc

shit gets expensive

greg donovan · Post by **greg donovan** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 8:13 pm

scottzg wrote:DO NOT GO IN TO DEBT TO MODIFY YOUR CAR.

i will ammend that to say:

DO NOT GO INTO DEBT OVER SOMETHING YOU MAY POTENTIALLY WRAP AROUND A TREE.

snowboarded · Post by **snowboarded** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 8:55 pm

Never thought of it like that before Greg.

BAC5.2 · Post by **BAC5.2** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 8:56 pm

Wheels and tires will cost more than $800.

Really good tires alone are going to be $500 to $800. Nice rims can be had new for about that.

Lots of the Subiedude ROTA packages are in the $1200 range.

subawhatsubawho · Post by **subawhatsubawho** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 9:00 pm

I was keeping most prices on the low but you are right...

Subiedude has some sweeeet rims.

Manarius · Post by **Manarius** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 9:07 pm

greg donovan wrote:DO NOT GO INTO DEBT OVER SOMETHING YOU MAY POTENTIALLY WRAP AROUND A TREE.

I personally like that idea more

.

rallysam · Post by **rallysam** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 9:17 pm

Manarius wrote:
greg donovan wrote:DO NOT GO INTO DEBT OVER SOMETHING YOU MAY POTENTIALLY WRAP AROUND A TREE.
I personally like that idea more .

Replace the word "potentially" with "probably" and you've got the rally motto

dzx · Post by **dzx** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 10:53 pm

You'd be better off finding someone to spend a couple hrs and help you replace the cv joint yourself if you can find one in a junkyard or I'm sure a member has one that they would sell you. When my wheel bearing went bad, the local shop wanted 330 dollars to fix it, but in the end it just cost me 10 dollars and about half an hr of work total.

As for the rest of what you want done, you should definately not put that on your credit card.

scottzg · Post by **scottzg** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 11:19 pm

I'm gonna second what dzx said. I pulled a pair of axles with intact boots from a junk yard, changed the boots with new ones, and tossed them on my car for a total price of 60$.

I can change an axle in about 20 minutes if i have my tools out, now that i've done a few sets. Trick is to have the right size little metal rod to punch the axle pin out with.

subawhatsubawho · Post by **subawhatsubawho** » Tue Sep 20, 2005 1:59 am

I used the rimmer tool with the cheap tire plug kit from wal-mart to remove the pin.

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Tue Sep 20, 2005 4:45 am

My all seasons alone cost $500, and that's the hookup price that we get.

About the 3x the time, parts and money investment thing... So true. That's why I'm taking 3.5 days to put together my turbo, ic, and dp, instead of the one, that it should theoretically take me.

azn2nr · Post by **azn2nr** » Tue Sep 20, 2005 5:12 am

holly god you guys pay a bunch for tires. i got falken azenies for 300 all 4 corners. and i just picked up my "winter tires" for 150. and they came with wheels

LaureltheQueen · Post by **LaureltheQueen** » Tue Sep 20, 2005 6:11 am

My winter tires are bridgestone potenza re950s. They're excellent winter/spring/fall tires, that do very well in summer as well.

Azenis are cheap sticky tires that are good for autocross. They don't last very long, hence the cheap part, and if there's so much as 50% humidity in the air, and they hear about it, they'll let go of pavement so fast, you'll never know what hit you.

azn2nr · Post by **azn2nr** » Tue Sep 20, 2005 6:45 am

not really. sadly they do better in the rain than my all seasons. and by rain im talking washington stuff your used to. major downfall.

my winter tires are nitto 450's. not really that good but ill have alot of fun

greg donovan · Post by **greg donovan** » Tue Sep 20, 2005 6:55 am

azn2nr wrote:not really. sadly they do better in the rain than my all seasons. and by rain im talking washington stuff your used to. major downfall.

my winter tires are nitto 450's. not really that good but ill have alot of fun

i will keep my hakka 1s and have fun by being able to stop and go w.out any major drama this winter.

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all or nothing?

all or nothing?