Crank sproket jammed
Moderators: Helpinators, Moderators
Crank sproket jammed
So we're done my 5MT swap, pretty much
Now we're tracking down that oil leak. It seems to be the front crank seal thats ruptured.
The keyway on the sproket is FUCKED. Everything is bent up and gouged, and the sproket wont come off the shaft. Im gonna try and get the pictures of Sean so you can see what I mean.
Basically what I think happened is that the pulley was loose and banged the shit out of the keyway, which caused a slightly wobble that damaged the front seal.
I need my car back on the road yesterday. Anyone know any tricks to get this damn thing off? Preferably without wrecking the sproket, but if thats what it takes...
Now we're tracking down that oil leak. It seems to be the front crank seal thats ruptured.
The keyway on the sproket is FUCKED. Everything is bent up and gouged, and the sproket wont come off the shaft. Im gonna try and get the pictures of Sean so you can see what I mean.
Basically what I think happened is that the pulley was loose and banged the shit out of the keyway, which caused a slightly wobble that damaged the front seal.
I need my car back on the road yesterday. Anyone know any tricks to get this damn thing off? Preferably without wrecking the sproket, but if thats what it takes...
98 Steel Widebody RSTi-RA Superbeast
Ouch that's rough. I would try tapping a couple of the holes on the face of the sprocket, if they're the right size?, and then throw a gear puller on it.
When I took apart my old 22E that had suffered equivalant damage due to a loose crank pulley I was able to get a screw driver in behind the timing ring and slowly got it pryed outwards some. Took some finessesing and I wasn't worried about damage to the block since it was being scraped but I got it out enough to get the hooks of a gear puller behind it and then that did the trick.
Hope this helps and goodluck.
When I took apart my old 22E that had suffered equivalant damage due to a loose crank pulley I was able to get a screw driver in behind the timing ring and slowly got it pryed outwards some. Took some finessesing and I wasn't worried about damage to the block since it was being scraped but I got it out enough to get the hooks of a gear puller behind it and then that did the trick.
Hope this helps and goodluck.
Lee
93' SS, 5mt swapped, 182k, not stock...
96' N/A OBW 5sp, 212k, Couple mods... RIP
99' N/A OBW, 4eat, mostly stock.
93' SS, 5mt swapped, 182k, not stock...
96' N/A OBW 5sp, 212k, Couple mods... RIP
99' N/A OBW, 4eat, mostly stock.
What do you think of
http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/LoctiteCrank2.html
Its for a Miata, but the guy says he hasnt had any problems in the 2 years since he did it.
http://www.miata.net/garage/hsue/LoctiteCrank2.html
Its for a Miata, but the guy says he hasnt had any problems in the 2 years since he did it.
98 Steel Widebody RSTi-RA Superbeast
the way I did it was just with a gear puller and I put a smaller flanged bolt in the crank bolt hole (small enough to where it sat on the top)
gear puller pulled it right off, no problemo. Although it was difficult too, due to the broken key that was on my old motor.
gear puller for the win.
gear puller pulled it right off, no problemo. Although it was difficult too, due to the broken key that was on my old motor.
gear puller for the win.
91 Legacy Wagon, Total Rally Car.
#82 M4 TRSCCA Rallycross
http://www.youtube.com/mobilepolice/
#82 M4 TRSCCA Rallycross
http://www.youtube.com/mobilepolice/
-
- quasi-mod-o
- Posts: 6000
- Joined: Thu Dec 05, 2002 7:06 pm
- Location: Tampa, FL
-
- quasi-mod-o
- Posts: 6000
- Joined: Thu Dec 05, 2002 7:06 pm
- Location: Tampa, FL
Splinter, glad to know that old thread's still being of some use
. The fix that I did held just fine up until I finally pulled the motor out due to excessive oil leakage/burning. So I got probably a good 25k miles out of it and when I tore it off the crankshaft in the process of tearing down the motor (I was curious) it took a little effort and seemed the like the fix was still holding strong. So the fix let me nurse the motor a fair while before the main seals (unaccessable after the 'fix') started leaking too bad and such. All in all it was the way to go for me at the time being extremely time and money constrained but I don't know if I could 'recommend' it though if you are real careful I don't see why it wouldn't work until you wanted to swap motors.

Lee
93' SS, 5mt swapped, 182k, not stock...
96' N/A OBW 5sp, 212k, Couple mods... RIP
99' N/A OBW, 4eat, mostly stock.
93' SS, 5mt swapped, 182k, not stock...
96' N/A OBW 5sp, 212k, Couple mods... RIP
99' N/A OBW, 4eat, mostly stock.
Hmm...
On one hand it is pretty ghetto. I also feel that I should point out that I was only running an ~200k NA motor without the additional power draw of an AC compressor. So the power demands my fix had to withstand certainly on the same page as your intercooled setup that has snapped drive axles.... In conjuction with the fact that your crankshaft looks a whole lot better than mine (was missing an equivalent amount of keyway material as your pulley) I would suggest pulling off your timing sprocket, put a new key in and put a new pulley on, with a little JB to fill any exess play in the crank due to the current problem, and call it good. Not to say my fix wouldn't have held the power but I definately wouldn't have trusted it as much.
My fix while effective and very cost efficient, did require a bit of time and acess to a good set of dial gauges and mounts. Time wise you could do it 'properly' within the same time frame.
On one hand it is pretty ghetto. I also feel that I should point out that I was only running an ~200k NA motor without the additional power draw of an AC compressor. So the power demands my fix had to withstand certainly on the same page as your intercooled setup that has snapped drive axles.... In conjuction with the fact that your crankshaft looks a whole lot better than mine (was missing an equivalent amount of keyway material as your pulley) I would suggest pulling off your timing sprocket, put a new key in and put a new pulley on, with a little JB to fill any exess play in the crank due to the current problem, and call it good. Not to say my fix wouldn't have held the power but I definately wouldn't have trusted it as much.
My fix while effective and very cost efficient, did require a bit of time and acess to a good set of dial gauges and mounts. Time wise you could do it 'properly' within the same time frame.
Lee
93' SS, 5mt swapped, 182k, not stock...
96' N/A OBW 5sp, 212k, Couple mods... RIP
99' N/A OBW, 4eat, mostly stock.
93' SS, 5mt swapped, 182k, not stock...
96' N/A OBW 5sp, 212k, Couple mods... RIP
99' N/A OBW, 4eat, mostly stock.
oh man.. so let me see here, I'm thinking to pull off the timing belt sprocket I think i need to thread two of the holes, then install a puller, and hopefully pull the thing out. Now for the fix on the crank i have to use some JB weld with a new key.. wow that is ghetto.. lol. I'm a aircraft mechanic and to fix something like that sorta goes against all my morals and background training, but i guess this will have to do, cause at least a car has somewhere to pull over if it breaks, not like an aircraft..
So apparently Sean (RS25) got the pulley off by tapping a couple holes and using a puller.
He also did the seal, put on my new pulley, put on the timing belt, but on the accessory pulley, installed the radiator and everything.
Good friends like him are hard to come by, but Im sure Ill be paying for it when he does his EJ22T swap
So I should be heading up to the shop today after work. Get Raquel back after a mere 15 days...
He also did the seal, put on my new pulley, put on the timing belt, but on the accessory pulley, installed the radiator and everything.
Good friends like him are hard to come by, but Im sure Ill be paying for it when he does his EJ22T swap

So I should be heading up to the shop today after work. Get Raquel back after a mere 15 days...
98 Steel Widebody RSTi-RA Superbeast
LOL.. thanks.. yeah that timing belt pully was like butter when i was cutting threads into it, but the crank shaft needed to be filed slightly to accomodate the new pully's (i'm sorry for robbing you new motor
). So after the pully was off it only took like 45mins to completely re-assemble the car, it was soo easy. Except for the fatal fact that Steve never left the keys at the with the car
, so i couldn't do a startup leak check (damn you steve), other than that, everything went pretty smoothly.
oh yeah.. go edmonton!!!!
and another note, it was kinda funny, went into Saunders Subaru to pick up parts and ask the mechanics what they would do with reguards to steves car, and ended up walking out parts in hand, and a new job... lol.. so yeah i start at saunders on friday doing car detailing and shop helper.. WOOT WOOT!!!!




oh yeah.. go edmonton!!!!
and another note, it was kinda funny, went into Saunders Subaru to pick up parts and ask the mechanics what they would do with reguards to steves car, and ended up walking out parts in hand, and a new job... lol.. so yeah i start at saunders on friday doing car detailing and shop helper.. WOOT WOOT!!!!

