Hmmm, It is still doing it. The last time it went back to normal
within 10 minutes of driving. What could have gone wrong? No "Check
Engine" light.
The way it is acting I am beginning to think it may be the wastegate,
it goes up to 5-1/2psi then pulls it back to just under 5psi. In
other words it is acting perfectly normal with the exception of the
actual boost pressure.
PLEASE help guys, I have to drive 6-1/2 hours up to Saugatuk MI on
Friday to run a TSD Rally!
PeteH
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Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
Moderators: Helpinators, Moderators
-
Dave aka DLC/dackampf
Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
It could be that your factory boost solenoid is failing.
A Hallman would be the cheapest way to replace it with an adjustable
setting and it works really good on mine, though i'm going to get an
AVC-R very soon.
If you have no vacuum leaks, no CELs and are still getting decent gas
mileage and don't seem to be running rich, i'd think it's something
in the wastegate too.
--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Pete Harjung aka: PeteH"
<pjharj@s...> wrote:
> Hmmm, It is still doing it. The last time it went back to normal
> within 10 minutes of driving. What could have gone wrong?
No "Check
> Engine" light.
>
> The way it is acting I am beginning to think it may be the
wastegate,
> it goes up to 5-1/2psi then pulls it back to just under 5psi. In
> other words it is acting perfectly normal with the exception of the
> actual boost pressure.
>
> PLEASE help guys, I have to drive 6-1/2 hours up to Saugatuk MI on
> Friday to run a TSD Rally!
>
> PeteH
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A Hallman would be the cheapest way to replace it with an adjustable
setting and it works really good on mine, though i'm going to get an
AVC-R very soon.
If you have no vacuum leaks, no CELs and are still getting decent gas
mileage and don't seem to be running rich, i'd think it's something
in the wastegate too.
--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Pete Harjung aka: PeteH"
<pjharj@s...> wrote:
> Hmmm, It is still doing it. The last time it went back to normal
> within 10 minutes of driving. What could have gone wrong?
No "Check
> Engine" light.
>
> The way it is acting I am beginning to think it may be the
wastegate,
> it goes up to 5-1/2psi then pulls it back to just under 5psi. In
> other words it is acting perfectly normal with the exception of the
> actual boost pressure.
>
> PLEASE help guys, I have to drive 6-1/2 hours up to Saugatuk MI on
> Friday to run a TSD Rally!
>
> PeteH
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matt scicchitano
Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
Pete, did you try and reset the computer at all? If for whatever reason the
ECU sees a problem(such as detonation), it will open the wastegate early. If
you reset the computer and your boost returns, I'd do as Dave said and grab
a Hallman.
-Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: Pete Harjung aka: PeteH <pjharj@sauk.com>
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com <BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com>
Date: Saturday, October 21, 2000 7:49 PM
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
>Hmmm, It is still doing it. The last time it went back to normal
>within 10 minutes of driving. What could have gone wrong? No "Check
>Engine" light.
>
>The way it is acting I am beginning to think it may be the wastegate,
>it goes up to 5-1/2psi then pulls it back to just under 5psi. In
>other words it is acting perfectly normal with the exception of the
>actual boost pressure.
>
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ECU sees a problem(such as detonation), it will open the wastegate early. If
you reset the computer and your boost returns, I'd do as Dave said and grab
a Hallman.
-Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: Pete Harjung aka: PeteH <pjharj@sauk.com>
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com <BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com>
Date: Saturday, October 21, 2000 7:49 PM
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
>Hmmm, It is still doing it. The last time it went back to normal
>within 10 minutes of driving. What could have gone wrong? No "Check
>Engine" light.
>
>The way it is acting I am beginning to think it may be the wastegate,
>it goes up to 5-1/2psi then pulls it back to just under 5psi. In
>other words it is acting perfectly normal with the exception of the
>actual boost pressure.
>
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Pete Harjung aka: PeteH
Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
"Dave aka DLC/dackampf" wrote:
> It could be that your factory boost solenoid is failing.
Yes, I suppose running it at 12psi may have been enough to rupture
the diaphram in the boost solenoid?
> A Hallman would be the cheapest way to replace it with an
adjustable
> setting and it works really good on mine, though i'm going to get
an
> AVC-R very soon.
I went the 'budget' route and bought the parts for the DIY boost
controller, anyone remember where the web-site is with the
instructions?
> If you have no vacuum leaks, no CELs and are still getting decent
gas
> mileage and don't seem to be running rich, i'd think it's something
> in the wastegate too.
Everything is well with all nearly new vacuum hoses. It seems too
consistant for the wastegate to be bad, although I have never had one
fail I would think in the event of a failure I would get too much
boost and a more sporatic behavior?
Thanks for the help
PeteH
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> It could be that your factory boost solenoid is failing.
Yes, I suppose running it at 12psi may have been enough to rupture
the diaphram in the boost solenoid?
> A Hallman would be the cheapest way to replace it with an
adjustable
> setting and it works really good on mine, though i'm going to get
an
> AVC-R very soon.
I went the 'budget' route and bought the parts for the DIY boost
controller, anyone remember where the web-site is with the
instructions?
> If you have no vacuum leaks, no CELs and are still getting decent
gas
> mileage and don't seem to be running rich, i'd think it's something
> in the wastegate too.
Everything is well with all nearly new vacuum hoses. It seems too
consistant for the wastegate to be bad, although I have never had one
fail I would think in the event of a failure I would get too much
boost and a more sporatic behavior?
Thanks for the help
PeteH
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Pete Harjung aka: PeteH
Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
"matt scicchitano" wrote:
> Pete, did you try and reset the computer at all? If for whatever
reason the
> ECU sees a problem(such as detonation), it will open the wastegate
early.
Nope, haven't gone there yet (I hate resetting my Eclipse head
unit
If it still being stupid this morning I will do the 'reset'
thing.
If
> you reset the computer and your boost returns, I'd do as Dave said
and grab
> a Hallman.
>
> -Matt
Isn't the OEM boost controller controlled by the ECM? What do I do,
just unplug it and leave the wire hang, won't I get a 'check-engine'
light?
Thanks guys,
PeteH
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> Pete, did you try and reset the computer at all? If for whatever
reason the
> ECU sees a problem(such as detonation), it will open the wastegate
early.
Nope, haven't gone there yet (I hate resetting my Eclipse head
unit
If it still being stupid this morning I will do the 'reset' thing.
If
> you reset the computer and your boost returns, I'd do as Dave said
and grab
> a Hallman.
>
> -Matt
Isn't the OEM boost controller controlled by the ECM? What do I do,
just unplug it and leave the wire hang, won't I get a 'check-engine'
light?
Thanks guys,
PeteH
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Carl Andersen
Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
How do you reset your ECU??? I took battery cable off overnight and didn't seem to work.
matt scicchitano wrote:
Pete, did you try and reset the computer at all? If for whatever reason the
ECU sees a problem(such as detonation), it will open the wastegate early. If
you reset the computer and your boost returns, I'd do as Dave said and grab
a Hallman.
-Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: Pete Harjung aka: PeteH <pjharj@sauk.com>
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com <BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com>
Date: Saturday, October 21, 2000 7:49 PM
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
>Hmmm, It is still doing it. The last time it went back to normal
>within 10 minutes of driving. What could have gone wrong? No "Check
>Engine" light.
>
>The way it is acting I am beginning to think it may be the wastegate,
>it goes up to 5-1/2psi then pulls it back to just under 5psi. In
>other words it is acting perfectly normal with the exception of the
>actual boost pressure.
>
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
matt scicchitano wrote:
Pete, did you try and reset the computer at all? If for whatever reason the
ECU sees a problem(such as detonation), it will open the wastegate early. If
you reset the computer and your boost returns, I'd do as Dave said and grab
a Hallman.
-Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: Pete Harjung aka: PeteH <pjharj@sauk.com>
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com <BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com>
Date: Saturday, October 21, 2000 7:49 PM
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
>Hmmm, It is still doing it. The last time it went back to normal
>within 10 minutes of driving. What could have gone wrong? No "Check
>Engine" light.
>
>The way it is acting I am beginning to think it may be the wastegate,
>it goes up to 5-1/2psi then pulls it back to just under 5psi. In
>other words it is acting perfectly normal with the exception of the
>actual boost pressure.
>
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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-
Josh Colombo
Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
Hey Carl, You have remove the battery cable, for an hour or so. Reconnect the cable. Then start the car, DO NOT touch the throttle or anything else. Let the car idle for about 15 minutes, or until it's up to normal operating temp. Then shut the car off, and that should do it.
Josh
************************************
Josh Colombo
jcc189@psu.edu
"Life, an ever-changing melody
of beats and rhythm" - ME
************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Carl Andersen [mailto:cdanders@tconl.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 10:26 AM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
Subject: Re: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
How do you reset your ECU??? I took battery cable off overnight and didn't seem to work.
matt scicchitano wrote:
Pete, did you try and reset the computer at all? If for whatever reason the
ECU sees a problem(such as detonation), it will open the wastegate early. If
you reset the computer and your boost returns, I'd do as Dave said and grab
a Hallman.
-Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: Pete Harjung aka: PeteH <pjharj@sauk.com>
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com <BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com>
Date: Saturday, October 21, 2000 7:49 PM
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
>Hmmm, It is still doing it. The last time it went back to normal
>within 10 minutes of driving. What could have gone wrong? No "Check
>Engine" light.
>
>The way it is acting I am beginning to think it may be the wastegate,
>it goes up to 5-1/2psi then pulls it back to just under 5psi. In
>other words it is acting perfectly normal with the exception of the
>actual boost pressure.
>
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Josh
************************************
Josh Colombo
jcc189@psu.edu
"Life, an ever-changing melody
of beats and rhythm" - ME
************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Carl Andersen [mailto:cdanders@tconl.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 10:26 AM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
Subject: Re: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
How do you reset your ECU??? I took battery cable off overnight and didn't seem to work.
matt scicchitano wrote:
Pete, did you try and reset the computer at all? If for whatever reason the
ECU sees a problem(such as detonation), it will open the wastegate early. If
you reset the computer and your boost returns, I'd do as Dave said and grab
a Hallman.
-Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: Pete Harjung aka: PeteH <pjharj@sauk.com>
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com <BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com>
Date: Saturday, October 21, 2000 7:49 PM
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
>Hmmm, It is still doing it. The last time it went back to normal
>within 10 minutes of driving. What could have gone wrong? No "Check
>Engine" light.
>
>The way it is acting I am beginning to think it may be the wastegate,
>it goes up to 5-1/2psi then pulls it back to just under 5psi. In
>other words it is acting perfectly normal with the exception of the
>actual boost pressure.
>
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Ben Lam
Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
Hay PeteH, are you looking for this site??
I just bookmark it since I check it out at the i-club. I'm not sure
isn't this the one you are looking for, but it talks about DIY boost
controler!
Check this out!
http://pages.cthome.net/gus/index.html
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I just bookmark it since I check it out at the i-club. I'm not sure
isn't this the one you are looking for, but it talks about DIY boost
controler!
Check this out!
http://pages.cthome.net/gus/index.html
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Pete Harjung aka: PeteH
Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
Yup, that's it! Thanks Ben
PeteH
--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Ben Lam" <b.lam@u...> wrote:
> Hay PeteH, are you looking for this site??
> I just bookmark it since I check it out at the i-club. I'm not sure
> isn't this the one you are looking for, but it talks about DIY
boost
> controler!
> Check this out!
> http://pages.cthome.net/gus/index.html
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PeteH
--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Ben Lam" <b.lam@u...> wrote:
> Hay PeteH, are you looking for this site??
> I just bookmark it since I check it out at the i-club. I'm not sure
> isn't this the one you are looking for, but it talks about DIY
boost
> controler!
> Check this out!
> http://pages.cthome.net/gus/index.html
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Matt Walters
Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
At 10:28 AM 10/22/2000 -0400, you wrote:
Hey Carl, You have remove the battery cable, for an hour or so. Reconnect the cable. Then start the car, DO NOT touch the throttle or anything else. Let the car idle for about 15 minutes, or until it's up to normal operating temp. Then shut the car off, and that should do it.
Actually, you have to pull both battery cables off and hold them together for a couple minutes.
I guarantee that works, and quickly. Just make sure that if you have a stereo that you've disconnected anything with a capacitor in it first :p
-=[Matt]=-
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Hey Carl, You have remove the battery cable, for an hour or so. Reconnect the cable. Then start the car, DO NOT touch the throttle or anything else. Let the car idle for about 15 minutes, or until it's up to normal operating temp. Then shut the car off, and that should do it.
Actually, you have to pull both battery cables off and hold them together for a couple minutes.
I guarantee that works, and quickly. Just make sure that if you have a stereo that you've disconnected anything with a capacitor in it first :p
-=[Matt]=-
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Ben Lam
Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
You are welcome PeteH!!
(^-^)...happy to help everybody in the club!!
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(^-^)...happy to help everybody in the club!!
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jason grahn
Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
no. bad. the worst part is, someone will actually go and do that now.
> Actually, you have to pull both battery cables off and hold them
>together for a couple minutes.
>
> I guarantee that works, and quickly. Just make sure that if you
>have a stereo that you've disconnected anything with a capacitor in it
>first :p
>
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> Actually, you have to pull both battery cables off and hold them
>together for a couple minutes.
>
> I guarantee that works, and quickly. Just make sure that if you
>have a stereo that you've disconnected anything with a capacitor in it
>first :p
>
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Josh Colombo
Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
You're definitely askin for trouble with that one....it's called dead short....things spark & fry...not good
Josh
************************************
Josh Colombo
jcc189@psu.edu
"Life, an ever-changing melody
of beats and rhythm" - ME
************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Walters [mailto:jonesboy@sunwave.net]
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 4:19 PM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
Subject: RE: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
At 10:28 AM 10/22/2000 -0400, you wrote:
Hey Carl, You have remove the battery cable, for an hour or so. Reconnect the cable. Then start the car, DO NOT touch the throttle or anything else. Let the car idle for about 15 minutes, or until it's up to normal operating temp. Then shut the car off, and that should do it.
Actually, you have to pull both battery cables off and hold them together for a couple minutes.
I guarantee that works, and quickly. Just make sure that if you have a stereo that you've disconnected anything with a capacitor in it first :p
-=[Matt]=-
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Josh
************************************
Josh Colombo
jcc189@psu.edu
"Life, an ever-changing melody
of beats and rhythm" - ME
************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Walters [mailto:jonesboy@sunwave.net]
Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 4:19 PM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
Subject: RE: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
At 10:28 AM 10/22/2000 -0400, you wrote:
Hey Carl, You have remove the battery cable, for an hour or so. Reconnect the cable. Then start the car, DO NOT touch the throttle or anything else. Let the car idle for about 15 minutes, or until it's up to normal operating temp. Then shut the car off, and that should do it.
Actually, you have to pull both battery cables off and hold them together for a couple minutes.
I guarantee that works, and quickly. Just make sure that if you have a stereo that you've disconnected anything with a capacitor in it first :p
-=[Matt]=-
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Alan Croxford
Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
Plese do not disconnect the battery cables and touch them together
this is asking for big problems$$$$$$$. I have done a lot of work on
these electronic systems and a lot of damage has been done doing
things in this manner. Even using jumper cables in any way can be a
bit risky. The damage is usually not done by the connection but when
the cables are disconnected as the battery looks at the car wiring as
a "ignition coil" and when the field collapses things tend to go
badly.
-- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Josh Colombo" <jcc189@p...>
wrote:
> You're definitely askin for trouble with that one....it's called
dead
> short....things spark & fry...not good
>
> Josh
>
>
> ************************************
> Josh Colombo
> jcc189@p...
>
> "Life, an ever-changing melody
> of beats and rhythm" - ME
> ************************************
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Matt Walters [mailto:jonesboy@s...]
> Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 4:19 PM
> To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
> Subject: RE: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
>
>
> At 10:28 AM 10/22/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>
> Hey Carl, You have remove the battery cable, for an hour or so.
> Reconnect the cable. Then start the car, DO NOT touch the throttle
or
> anything else. Let the car idle for about 15 minutes, or until
it's
up to
> normal operating temp. Then shut the car off, and that should do
it.
>
> Actually, you have to pull both battery cables off and
hold them
> together for a couple minutes.
>
> I guarantee that works, and quickly. Just make sure that
if you
> have a stereo that you've disconnected anything with a capacitor in
it first
> :p
>
> -=[Matt]=-
>
> eGroups Sponsor
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
-------------------------- eGroups Sponsor -------------------------~-~>
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---------------------------------------------------------------------_->
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this is asking for big problems$$$$$$$. I have done a lot of work on
these electronic systems and a lot of damage has been done doing
things in this manner. Even using jumper cables in any way can be a
bit risky. The damage is usually not done by the connection but when
the cables are disconnected as the battery looks at the car wiring as
a "ignition coil" and when the field collapses things tend to go
badly.
-- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Josh Colombo" <jcc189@p...>
wrote:
> You're definitely askin for trouble with that one....it's called
dead
> short....things spark & fry...not good
>
> Josh
>
>
> ************************************
> Josh Colombo
> jcc189@p...
>
> "Life, an ever-changing melody
> of beats and rhythm" - ME
> ************************************
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Matt Walters [mailto:jonesboy@s...]
> Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 4:19 PM
> To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
> Subject: RE: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
>
>
> At 10:28 AM 10/22/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>
> Hey Carl, You have remove the battery cable, for an hour or so.
> Reconnect the cable. Then start the car, DO NOT touch the throttle
or
> anything else. Let the car idle for about 15 minutes, or until
it's
up to
> normal operating temp. Then shut the car off, and that should do
it.
>
> Actually, you have to pull both battery cables off and
hold them
> together for a couple minutes.
>
> I guarantee that works, and quickly. Just make sure that
if you
> have a stereo that you've disconnected anything with a capacitor in
it first
> :p
>
> -=[Matt]=-
>
> eGroups Sponsor
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
-------------------------- eGroups Sponsor -------------------------~-~>
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---------------------------------------------------------------------_->
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-
Carl Andersen
Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
I still don't have a good feel for the "official" method of resetting the ECU. The method I tried didn't work and the method suggested here is getting serious mixed reviews.
Does anyone know what Subaru says?????
Thanks,
Carl Andersen
93 Touring Wagon 92000
Alan Croxford wrote:
Plese do not disconnect the battery cables and touch them together
this is asking for big problems$$$$$$$. I have done a lot of work on
these electronic systems and a lot of damage has been done doing
things in this manner. Even using jumper cables in any way can be a
bit risky. The damage is usually not done by the connection but when
the cables are disconnected as the battery looks at the car wiring as
a "ignition coil" and when the field collapses things tend to go
badly.
-- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Josh Colombo" <jcc189@p...>
wrote:
> You're definitely askin for trouble with that one....it's called
dead
> short....things spark & fry...not good
>
> Josh
>
>
> ************************************
> Josh Colombo
> jcc189@p...
>
> "Life, an ever-changing melody
> of beats and rhythm" - ME
> ************************************
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Matt Walters [ mailto:jonesboy@s...]
> Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 4:19 PM
> To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
> Subject: RE: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
>
>
> At 10:28 AM 10/22/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>
> Hey Carl, You have remove the battery cable, for an hour or so.
> Reconnect the cable. Then start the car, DO NOT touch the throttle
or
> anything else. Let the car idle for about 15 minutes, or until
it's
up to
> normal operating temp. Then shut the car off, and that should do
it.
>
> Actually, you have to pull both battery cables off and
hold them
> together for a couple minutes.
>
> I guarantee that works, and quickly. Just make sure that
if you
> have a stereo that you've disconnected anything with a capacitor in
it first
> :p
>
> -=[Matt]=-
>
> eGroups Sponsor
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
Does anyone know what Subaru says?????
Thanks,
Carl Andersen
93 Touring Wagon 92000
Alan Croxford wrote:
Plese do not disconnect the battery cables and touch them together
this is asking for big problems$$$$$$$. I have done a lot of work on
these electronic systems and a lot of damage has been done doing
things in this manner. Even using jumper cables in any way can be a
bit risky. The damage is usually not done by the connection but when
the cables are disconnected as the battery looks at the car wiring as
a "ignition coil" and when the field collapses things tend to go
badly.
-- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Josh Colombo" <jcc189@p...>
wrote:
> You're definitely askin for trouble with that one....it's called
dead
> short....things spark & fry...not good
>
> Josh
>
>
> ************************************
> Josh Colombo
> jcc189@p...
>
> "Life, an ever-changing melody
> of beats and rhythm" - ME
> ************************************
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Matt Walters [ mailto:jonesboy@s...]
> Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 4:19 PM
> To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
> Subject: RE: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
>
>
> At 10:28 AM 10/22/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>
> Hey Carl, You have remove the battery cable, for an hour or so.
> Reconnect the cable. Then start the car, DO NOT touch the throttle
or
> anything else. Let the car idle for about 15 minutes, or until
it's
up to
> normal operating temp. Then shut the car off, and that should do
it.
>
> Actually, you have to pull both battery cables off and
hold them
> together for a couple minutes.
>
> I guarantee that works, and quickly. Just make sure that
if you
> have a stereo that you've disconnected anything with a capacitor in
it first
> :p
>
> -=[Matt]=-
>
> eGroups Sponsor
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
-
Alan Croxford
Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
Subaru says that if you bring your car into the dealership they will
hook up a unit call a diagnostic scan monitor and charge you for it.
the method of leaving the - connector of the battery off for a while
and then reconmecting it works just fine with the exception of a few
"stored" codes that show sometimes that usually mean nothing
important and I never found any real explanation for.
--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, Carl Andersen <cdanders@t...>
wrote:
> I still don't have a good feel for the "official" method of
resetting
> the ECU. The method I tried didn't work and the method suggested
here
> is getting serious mixed reviews.
>
> Does anyone know what Subaru says?????
>
> Thanks,
> Carl Andersen
> 93 Touring Wagon 92000
>
>
> Alan Croxford wrote:
>
> > Plese do not disconnect the battery cables and touch them together
> > this is asking for big problems$$$$$$$. I have done a lot of work
on
> > these electronic systems and a lot of damage has been done doing
> > things in this manner. Even using jumper cables in any way can be
a
> > bit risky. The damage is usually not done by the connection but
when
> > the cables are disconnected as the battery looks at the car
wiring
as
> > a "ignition coil" and when the field collapses things tend to go
> > badly.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Josh Colombo" <jcc189@p...>
> > wrote:
> > > You're definitely askin for trouble with that one....it's called
> > dead
> > > short....things spark & fry...not good
> > >
> > > Josh
> > >
> > >
> > > ************************************
> > > Josh Colombo
> > > jcc189@p...
> > >
> > > "Life, an ever-changing melody
> > > of beats and rhythm" - ME
> > > ************************************
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Matt Walters [mailto:jonesboy@s...]
> > > Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 4:19 PM
> > > To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
> > > Subject: RE: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
> > >
> > >
> > > At 10:28 AM 10/22/2000 -0400, you wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey Carl, You have remove the battery cable, for an hour or
so.
> > > Reconnect the cable. Then start the car, DO NOT touch the
throttle
> > or
> > > anything else. Let the car idle for about 15 minutes, or until
> > it's
> > up to
> > > normal operating temp. Then shut the car off, and that should
do
> > it.
> > >
> > > Actually, you have to pull both battery cables off and
> > hold them
> > > together for a couple minutes.
> > >
> > > I guarantee that works, and quickly. Just make sure
that
> > if you
> > > have a stereo that you've disconnected anything with a
capacitor
in
> > it first
> > > :p
> > >
> > > -=[Matt]=-
> > >
> > > eGroups Sponsor
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> >
> >
> > eGroups Sponsor
>
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> >
> >
-------------------------- eGroups Sponsor -------------------------~-~>
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---------------------------------------------------------------------_->
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hook up a unit call a diagnostic scan monitor and charge you for it.
the method of leaving the - connector of the battery off for a while
and then reconmecting it works just fine with the exception of a few
"stored" codes that show sometimes that usually mean nothing
important and I never found any real explanation for.
--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, Carl Andersen <cdanders@t...>
wrote:
> I still don't have a good feel for the "official" method of
resetting
> the ECU. The method I tried didn't work and the method suggested
here
> is getting serious mixed reviews.
>
> Does anyone know what Subaru says?????
>
> Thanks,
> Carl Andersen
> 93 Touring Wagon 92000
>
>
> Alan Croxford wrote:
>
> > Plese do not disconnect the battery cables and touch them together
> > this is asking for big problems$$$$$$$. I have done a lot of work
on
> > these electronic systems and a lot of damage has been done doing
> > things in this manner. Even using jumper cables in any way can be
a
> > bit risky. The damage is usually not done by the connection but
when
> > the cables are disconnected as the battery looks at the car
wiring
as
> > a "ignition coil" and when the field collapses things tend to go
> > badly.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Josh Colombo" <jcc189@p...>
> > wrote:
> > > You're definitely askin for trouble with that one....it's called
> > dead
> > > short....things spark & fry...not good
> > >
> > > Josh
> > >
> > >
> > > ************************************
> > > Josh Colombo
> > > jcc189@p...
> > >
> > > "Life, an ever-changing melody
> > > of beats and rhythm" - ME
> > > ************************************
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Matt Walters [mailto:jonesboy@s...]
> > > Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 4:19 PM
> > > To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
> > > Subject: RE: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
> > >
> > >
> > > At 10:28 AM 10/22/2000 -0400, you wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey Carl, You have remove the battery cable, for an hour or
so.
> > > Reconnect the cable. Then start the car, DO NOT touch the
throttle
> > or
> > > anything else. Let the car idle for about 15 minutes, or until
> > it's
> > up to
> > > normal operating temp. Then shut the car off, and that should
do
> > it.
> > >
> > > Actually, you have to pull both battery cables off and
> > hold them
> > > together for a couple minutes.
> > >
> > > I guarantee that works, and quickly. Just make sure
that
> > if you
> > > have a stereo that you've disconnected anything with a
capacitor
in
> > it first
> > > :p
> > >
> > > -=[Matt]=-
> > >
> > > eGroups Sponsor
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> >
> >
> > eGroups Sponsor
>
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> >
> >
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-
Matt Walters
Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
At 070 PM 10/22/2000 -0400, you wrote:
You're definitely askin for trouble with that one....it's called dead short....things spark & fry...not good
Not only have I done that, but so has my mechanic. The ECU has battery-backed RAM and that's the only way to quickly reset your ECU (by battery-backed, I mean like two weeks backup time)...
...your call, unless you wanna buy a scanner for it...
-=[Matt]=-
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You're definitely askin for trouble with that one....it's called dead short....things spark & fry...not good
Not only have I done that, but so has my mechanic. The ECU has battery-backed RAM and that's the only way to quickly reset your ECU (by battery-backed, I mean like two weeks backup time)...
...your call, unless you wanna buy a scanner for it...
-=[Matt]=-
eGroups Sponsor
<http://click.egroups.com/1/9666/2/_/_/_/972275489/>
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To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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-
Josh Colombo
Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
Well, if I were going to do this, I would get a med. sized resistor, 1000k ohm or so and put it between the two cables. This would draw the excess power out slowly, rather than all at once.
Josh
************************************
Josh Colombo
jcc189@psu.edu
"Life, an ever-changing melody
of beats and rhythm" - ME
************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Walters [mailto:jonesboy@sunwave.net]
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 12:31 AM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
Subject: RE: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
At 070 PM 10/22/2000 -0400, you wrote:
You're definitely askin for trouble with that one....it's called dead short....things spark & fry...not good
Not only have I done that, but so has my mechanic. The ECU has battery-backed RAM and that's the only way to quickly reset your ECU (by battery-backed, I mean like two weeks backup time)...
...your call, unless you wanna buy a scanner for it...
-=[Matt]=-
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
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Josh
************************************
Josh Colombo
jcc189@psu.edu
"Life, an ever-changing melody
of beats and rhythm" - ME
************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Walters [mailto:jonesboy@sunwave.net]
Sent: Monday, October 23, 2000 12:31 AM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
Subject: RE: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
At 070 PM 10/22/2000 -0400, you wrote:
You're definitely askin for trouble with that one....it's called dead short....things spark & fry...not good
Not only have I done that, but so has my mechanic. The ECU has battery-backed RAM and that's the only way to quickly reset your ECU (by battery-backed, I mean like two weeks backup time)...
...your call, unless you wanna buy a scanner for it...
-=[Matt]=-
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
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-
Alan Croxford
Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
Hi Carl, This is what Subaru says in the FSM for the Legacy.
Step 1 start engine
2 warm up engine
3 turn ignition sw. off
4 connect test mode connector
5 connect read memory connector
6 turn ign. sw.ON (engine off)
7 check engine lite turns on
8 Depress accelerator pedal completely and then return it to
half-throttle position and hold it there for two seconds.
Release accelerator pedal completely.
9 start engine
10 Check engine light goes out ( if it does not go out it says to
check for trouble code)
11 If light goes out drive at a speed greater than 7 mph for at least
one minute and shift up to 4th speed (MT model)
12 warm up engine above 2,000 RPM
13 check if engine light blinks (if it doesn't check for trouble
codes
14 turn ign. sw. off
15 disconnect test mode connector and read memory connector
16 End
This will work there is two types of memory in the Mitsubihi chips in
the ECU regular RAM and a non-volatile type that is only electrically
erasable and holds a history that can be retrievied by the scanner
this method should erase both but I have seen cases where it will not.
--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, Carl Andersen <cdanders@t...>
wrote:
> I still don't have a good feel for the "official" method of
resetting
> the ECU. The method I tried didn't work and the method suggested
here
> is getting serious mixed reviews.
>
> Does anyone know what Subaru says?????
>
> Thanks,
> Carl Andersen
> 93 Touring Wagon 92000
>
>
> Alan Croxford wrote:
>
> > Plese do not disconnect the battery cables and touch them together
> > this is asking for big problems$$$$$$$. I have done a lot of work
on
> > these electronic systems and a lot of damage has been done doing
> > things in this manner. Even using jumper cables in any way can be
a
> > bit risky. The damage is usually not done by the connection but
when
> > the cables are disconnected as the battery looks at the car
wiring
as
> > a "ignition coil" and when the field collapses things tend to go
> > badly.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Josh Colombo" <jcc189@p...>
> > wrote:
> > > You're definitely askin for trouble with that one....it's called
> > dead
> > > short....things spark & fry...not good
> > >
> > > Josh
> > >
> > >
> > > ************************************
> > > Josh Colombo
> > > jcc189@p...
> > >
> > > "Life, an ever-changing melody
> > > of beats and rhythm" - ME
> > > ************************************
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Matt Walters [mailto:jonesboy@s...]
> > > Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 4:19 PM
> > > To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
> > > Subject: RE: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
> > >
> > >
> > > At 10:28 AM 10/22/2000 -0400, you wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey Carl, You have remove the battery cable, for an hour or
so.
> > > Reconnect the cable. Then start the car, DO NOT touch the
throttle
> > or
> > > anything else. Let the car idle for about 15 minutes, or until
> > it's
> > up to
> > > normal operating temp. Then shut the car off, and that should
do
> > it.
> > >
> > > Actually, you have to pull both battery cables off and
> > hold them
> > > together for a couple minutes.
> > >
> > > I guarantee that works, and quickly. Just make sure
that
> > if you
> > > have a stereo that you've disconnected anything with a
capacitor
in
> > it first
> > > :p
> > >
> > > -=[Matt]=-
> > >
> > > eGroups Sponsor
> > >
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> >
> >
> > eGroups Sponsor
>
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> >
> >
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---------------------------------------------------------------------_->
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Step 1 start engine
2 warm up engine
3 turn ignition sw. off
4 connect test mode connector
5 connect read memory connector
6 turn ign. sw.ON (engine off)
7 check engine lite turns on
8 Depress accelerator pedal completely and then return it to
half-throttle position and hold it there for two seconds.
Release accelerator pedal completely.
9 start engine
10 Check engine light goes out ( if it does not go out it says to
check for trouble code)
11 If light goes out drive at a speed greater than 7 mph for at least
one minute and shift up to 4th speed (MT model)
12 warm up engine above 2,000 RPM
13 check if engine light blinks (if it doesn't check for trouble
codes
14 turn ign. sw. off
15 disconnect test mode connector and read memory connector
16 End
This will work there is two types of memory in the Mitsubihi chips in
the ECU regular RAM and a non-volatile type that is only electrically
erasable and holds a history that can be retrievied by the scanner
this method should erase both but I have seen cases where it will not.
--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, Carl Andersen <cdanders@t...>
wrote:
> I still don't have a good feel for the "official" method of
resetting
> the ECU. The method I tried didn't work and the method suggested
here
> is getting serious mixed reviews.
>
> Does anyone know what Subaru says?????
>
> Thanks,
> Carl Andersen
> 93 Touring Wagon 92000
>
>
> Alan Croxford wrote:
>
> > Plese do not disconnect the battery cables and touch them together
> > this is asking for big problems$$$$$$$. I have done a lot of work
on
> > these electronic systems and a lot of damage has been done doing
> > things in this manner. Even using jumper cables in any way can be
a
> > bit risky. The damage is usually not done by the connection but
when
> > the cables are disconnected as the battery looks at the car
wiring
as
> > a "ignition coil" and when the field collapses things tend to go
> > badly.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com, "Josh Colombo" <jcc189@p...>
> > wrote:
> > > You're definitely askin for trouble with that one....it's called
> > dead
> > > short....things spark & fry...not good
> > >
> > > Josh
> > >
> > >
> > > ************************************
> > > Josh Colombo
> > > jcc189@p...
> > >
> > > "Life, an ever-changing melody
> > > of beats and rhythm" - ME
> > > ************************************
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Matt Walters [mailto:jonesboy@s...]
> > > Sent: Sunday, October 22, 2000 4:19 PM
> > > To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@egroups.com
> > > Subject: RE: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Now What! !!!!!!!!! part 2
> > >
> > >
> > > At 10:28 AM 10/22/2000 -0400, you wrote:
> > >
> > > Hey Carl, You have remove the battery cable, for an hour or
so.
> > > Reconnect the cable. Then start the car, DO NOT touch the
throttle
> > or
> > > anything else. Let the car idle for about 15 minutes, or until
> > it's
> > up to
> > > normal operating temp. Then shut the car off, and that should
do
> > it.
> > >
> > > Actually, you have to pull both battery cables off and
> > hold them
> > > together for a couple minutes.
> > >
> > > I guarantee that works, and quickly. Just make sure
that
> > if you
> > > have a stereo that you've disconnected anything with a
capacitor
in
> > it first
> > > :p
> > >
> > > -=[Matt]=-
> > >
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> >
> >
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> >
> >
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