2nd blown motor - now need tips for building 20+psi motor

[morgue]

i have a n/a 91 leg and 2 blown ej22s

im tired of wasting money on motors decided to be smart for once
and build a motor that can handle my turbo. i have limited knowledge about the internals but have done 3 motor swaps... current motor now is running way too rich and fouling plugs - replaced all gaskets on the manifold, changed plugs, and checked for vac leaks... still same prob. im fed up

So what i wanna ask is...
whats the best motor setup (heads,block,intake,pistons,ecu...)
to drop into my n/a legacy chassis? im aware that some fabrication may be needed.

[tmarcel]

You can follow the KISs (keep it simply) rule. If you have the resources to find another block or build your own, just get a set of Wiseco pistons, STi rods, ACL bearings (Race series if you want to do it right), and Cometic head gaskets. That can all be had for $600-800 and will support pretty much any reasonable amount of power.

Keep in mind, that most of the failures are generally from improper tuning. Nothing that you build will tolerate a sh*t tune. There are those in the Subaru community that say open-deck design can't do it. This is true for track applications but is perfectly fine for daily drivers with high power levels. I should know as I've got a Phase 1 2.5L with 100mm pistons, Crower rods, running a bit more than 9:1 CR. This same motor was making over 400whp previsouly before the turbo (Garrett GT3282) went out. I never expected to track it. I just wanted something strong and it has performed quite well.

As far as an EMS, I can get you a plug in play Haltech E8 (you'll need to also get the optional MAP and intake temp sensors as well). You really can't get any better than that. Use your stock heads and intake manifold. Pretty simple!

[morgue]

thx, will look into that, but will the block be able to hold that?

[tmarcel]

thx, will look into that, but will the block be able to hold that?

Read my post again.

[morgue]

done.

[Matt Monson]

To add to his ponts, the 2.2L open deck block is only marginally less strong than it's closed deck turbo counterpart. I will be building an engine sometime in the next six months that consists of a 90-94 Ej22E na bottom end mated to a set of SOHC Ej25 cylinder heads. The block will be bone stock. With those heads (or WRX heads or DOHC Ej25 heads) the compression ratio on the NA block gets dropped down to the mid 8's. It varies depending on which exact head you use, but it's 8.5-9:1

I am putting it against a 1L Lysolm twinscrew supercharger at around 10-12psi. It should be good for +/-300 whp. I have no concerns about the strength of the block. As was mentioned, it's all in the tune. Tune is everything.

If you car is currently running silly rich, that's a problem. Rich is just as bad as lean. It just leads to failures in a different way. Rich washes down the cylinders, contaminates your oil, and then you lose your bearings and seals, and the engine dies a quick and painful death. Whatever you do from here, address your tune...

[555BCTurbo]

I am putting it against a 1L Lysolm twinscrew supercharger at around 10-12psi.

Muahahahahaha

Lysholms are teh shiznat

As was mentioned, it's all in the tune. Tune is everything.

125% true...just keep your AFRs in check, and you're golden...

I run 20psi on a 215k mile EJ22T...and it loves it...granted I do have a Perfect Power 6 and a wideband 02...and I am subsequently able to keep an eye on the AFRs and adjust accordingly...

If you are looking to make power and not blow engines up, a wideband is a great investment!