Car is a 1990 GT wagon with RS engine/box EJ20 Turbo
Had Cylinder heads rebuilt, surfaced, valves seated and new lifters fitted.
Assembled engine with new cambelt and tensioner, all timing marks appeared to be spot on.
Turned over engine by hand,plenty of compression all seemed well
Engine started fine, after a few seconds what sounded like a mechaical knock appeared.
Engine was shut down and after a compression test it read 0psi
in all cylinders.
Heads removed for fear of bent valves however there were no marks on any pistons and all the valves looked normal.
Pics avalible if required.
Any ideas ? I'm stumped as it all looks fine
no Compression on rebuilt EJ20
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Did you make sure the cams were still oriented correctly after the compression loss? Perhaps the belt tensioner died.
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Incorrect.Arctic Assassian wrote:I already told you... There is no reason you would ever have zero compression. ever. Unless the motor you were testing was incomplete...without rings, or valves.
If your lifters were holding the valves open too far, you would not have any compression.
Don't ask me how I know

Nick
1987 Audi 4000CS quattro...soon to be 20VT
1994 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 CTD, #11 plate, 30 psi, Scotty II intake, 4" exhaust
1987 Audi 4000CS quattro...soon to be 20VT
1994 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 CTD, #11 plate, 30 psi, Scotty II intake, 4" exhaust
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The way I generally do a comp test is to remove all plugs. Then start at one of the cyliders and make the way around. It takes very LITTLE effort for the motor to turn over like this. Almost sounds like a sewing machine as the starter cranks the motor. Does your motor sound like this? Spin without any effort?
If this had happened to me, I would first look to the cam timing. Then look at everything else.
As far as gauge readings, the cheap ones are terrible in terms of accuracy, but they should work to a degree, i.e high or low readings. If the gauge wasn't working at all, then wow I've never seen that.
If this had happened to me, I would first look to the cam timing. Then look at everything else.
As far as gauge readings, the cheap ones are terrible in terms of accuracy, but they should work to a degree, i.e high or low readings. If the gauge wasn't working at all, then wow I've never seen that.
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