'92 Legacy L - Trouble Code 13
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'92 Legacy L - Trouble Code 13
My Legacy was running fine on Friday. On Saturday, I went to start it and got nothing but cranking - it would try to fire, but never took. Today, I finally figured out how to get the Trouble Codes to display. It returns a Trouble Code 13 - Cam Angle Sensor.
Where is the best place to start on figuring out what I need to do to get my car running again?
And I have to say that trying to do engine work outside in Alaska in the winter sucks. =/
Other info:
2.2L MPFI engine
New alternator (stock went out a month ago)
Just passed 100K miles
Where is the best place to start on figuring out what I need to do to get my car running again?
And I have to say that trying to do engine work outside in Alaska in the winter sucks. =/
Other info:
2.2L MPFI engine
New alternator (stock went out a month ago)
Just passed 100K miles
Yup, you definatly need to pull three bolts out of a cam belt cover and check the cambelt is still working.
If the belt seems good you should check the cam sensor which is easy to get at just behind the left(as you are in the car), cam sprocket... at the top of the head. One bolt and the sensor pulls out backwards. The process to test them should be around somewhere.
If the belt seems good you should check the cam sensor which is easy to get at just behind the left(as you are in the car), cam sprocket... at the top of the head. One bolt and the sensor pulls out backwards. The process to test them should be around somewhere.
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The first thing I would do is disconnect the cam sensor plug and measure the resistance between the terminals. The plug is located underneath the throttle body. If you see an open or short its your cam sensor. If there is a reasonable resistance, not sure how much, but around a couple of kilo ohms, then I would check the timing belt.
Ok, neighbor got home and had a multimeter.
Pulled the cam angle sensor and tested it.
Got about 1.53 kilo ohms of resistance between Red and Yellow.
Got zero ohms of resistance between Red and Black, Yellow and Black, Yellow and engine well, Black and engine well.
Though I might not have got a good connection to the body.
So where do I go from here? It started snowing today, so checking the belt is going to be rough - but if the sensor is fine, I know I don't really have a choice.
Pulled the cam angle sensor and tested it.
Got about 1.53 kilo ohms of resistance between Red and Yellow.
Got zero ohms of resistance between Red and Black, Yellow and Black, Yellow and engine well, Black and engine well.
Though I might not have got a good connection to the body.
So where do I go from here? It started snowing today, so checking the belt is going to be rough - but if the sensor is fine, I know I don't really have a choice.
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Sounds like your CAM sensor is fine, which means you probably have a broken timing belt. What you need to do is pull the top two 10mm bolts off of either the left or right side timing cover. You should then be able to pull the timing cover back just enough to see if the belt looks intact or if it is broken. If you want to fully remove the left or right cover there is a third 10mm bolt on the bottom.
I think all you need to remove is the fans and you have enough room.. If you remove the rad, then you need to drain it etc. Then when you put it back in, need to add new fluid, burp the air out etc. Real pain. You might be able to get in there without removing the fans either. You do need to remove the crank pulley. You have a 5spd though right? Just stick it in 5th gear and get a torque wrench, should give you enough leverage. You will need to retorque it to 140ft-lbs. Put some oil or anti seize on the threads and clean them up good when you put it back. Good luck bud.
1993 Subaru Legacy L AWD Wagon R.I.P
1994 Subaru Legacy SS R.I.P :(
2004 Nissan Titan LE 4X4
2007 Subaru Legacy GT :)
1994 Subaru Legacy SS R.I.P :(
2004 Nissan Titan LE 4X4
2007 Subaru Legacy GT :)
Yeah, I meant the fans. -_-
And no, it's an AT.
I read you can disconnect the plug wires to keep make sure it doesn't start, then just give the motor a quick crank after wedging the breaker bar in there.
Also, should I replace the timing belt cover gasket? There's a lot of overspill around the oil fill neck.
Just trying to make sure I get everything I need in one trip since this is my only vehicle. I'll definitely check the belt before I buy one, though.
And no, it's an AT.
I read you can disconnect the plug wires to keep make sure it doesn't start, then just give the motor a quick crank after wedging the breaker bar in there.
Also, should I replace the timing belt cover gasket? There's a lot of overspill around the oil fill neck.
Just trying to make sure I get everything I need in one trip since this is my only vehicle. I'll definitely check the belt before I buy one, though.
That sounds like an accident waiting to happen.nik.ak wrote: I read you can disconnect the plug wires to keep make sure it doesn't start, then just give the motor a quick crank after wedging the breaker bar in there.
I launched a ratchet on a Chevy Impala when I was lashing valves. Forgot to remove the ratchet before bumping the engine over. Didn't start it (coil wire was removed), but still dented the hood, gouged the fender and I never did find that 5/8" 1/2 drive socket... The ratchet and extension were about 50-75' from the car, if anyone had been standing there it would have killed them...
'90 Bermuda Blue L Wagon (Wife's),
Auto, AWD, Now with 275K + miles!
2005 Outback, 2.5 AWD (wife's new daily)
Auto, AWD, Now with 275K + miles!
2005 Outback, 2.5 AWD (wife's new daily)
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You do not need to remove anything accept the two small bolts I mentioned earlier to check the status of the belt. Before you start ripping your car apart, make sure the belt is broken. If the belt is not broken, then I would reset the ECU by removing power for a bit. Check the codes to make sure they have reset, then turn it over and see if the code comes back.
Ahhh, kk. I'll do that later today when my neighbor gets home or s0 - I hate not having tools. -_-glennda5id wrote:You do not need to remove anything accept the two small bolts I mentioned earlier to check the status of the belt. Before you start ripping your car apart, make sure the belt is broken. If the belt is not broken, then I would reset the ECU by removing power for a bit. Check the codes to make sure they have reset, then turn it over and see if the code comes back.
Ok, so I tried some starter fluid sprayed into the air intake - nothing.
I removed the top outside bolts on either side and pulled the cover back - belt is still going around the three gears and spins when the engine is cranked. Obviously can't tell from that angle if the belt is missing teeth or if it skipped.
Anything else I can check before towing it to a friend's place with a better selection of tools?
I removed the top outside bolts on either side and pulled the cover back - belt is still going around the three gears and spins when the engine is cranked. Obviously can't tell from that angle if the belt is missing teeth or if it skipped.
Anything else I can check before towing it to a friend's place with a better selection of tools?
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Can you beg, borrow or steal a cam angle sensor to try in there? It is what the ecu reckons is wrong and it is one of the few sensors that will stop your car from running.
I know you checked it but it might have an intermittent contact or it could just be a weak signal.
At this stage, it's the next thing to try!
I know you checked it but it might have an intermittent contact or it could just be a weak signal.
At this stage, it's the next thing to try!
Ok, so I:
1) Reconnected the battery leads.
2) Turned the key to On - CEL did not light.
3) Tried to start the car - turned over, did not catch.
4) Connected OBD wires.
5) Turned the key to On - CEL flashed steady on/off about 40 times before I turned the key off.
So now I'm completely at a loss for what it could be. >_<
1) Reconnected the battery leads.
2) Turned the key to On - CEL did not light.
3) Tried to start the car - turned over, did not catch.
4) Connected OBD wires.
5) Turned the key to On - CEL flashed steady on/off about 40 times before I turned the key off.
So now I'm completely at a loss for what it could be. >_<
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Sparking on the driver's side, both coils. Couldn't check the passenger side since I did it alone.
I was unable to pull the plugs, so I pulled the wires off the plugs, carefully inserted a screwdriver, and laid them above bolts. They both arced across to the bolt.
I'll be trying to get my car into the neighbor's garage this evening and have a better selection of tools. I'll try to pull the plugs and check the gap on them.
I've also been told I should check the crank sensor and the MAP sensor (though I wasn't sure if we have one) - and failing that, that I should check the timing to see if the belt skipped.
Ideas?
I was unable to pull the plugs, so I pulled the wires off the plugs, carefully inserted a screwdriver, and laid them above bolts. They both arced across to the bolt.
I'll be trying to get my car into the neighbor's garage this evening and have a better selection of tools. I'll try to pull the plugs and check the gap on them.
I've also been told I should check the crank sensor and the MAP sensor (though I wasn't sure if we have one) - and failing that, that I should check the timing to see if the belt skipped.
Ideas?
Got it running!
Neighbor's friend came over, listened to it, got the air intake hose off, sprayed some starter fluid in there and it just about started. Disconnected the fuel filter, blew it out into a jar, and it came out the color of...well...it wasn't pretty. Kinda like the wood on a prefab computer desk. Anyways.
Reconnected the filter and it started right up.
Neighbor's friend came over, listened to it, got the air intake hose off, sprayed some starter fluid in there and it just about started. Disconnected the fuel filter, blew it out into a jar, and it came out the color of...well...it wasn't pretty. Kinda like the wood on a prefab computer desk. Anyways.
Reconnected the filter and it started right up.
Yeah, so was I. lol
It's idling a little odd now - it drops down to about 650 RMP, then revs up to 750, then back to about 650. When I started the car after letting it run for 10-15 minutes, the idle eventually leveled out for a while, but then slowly started fluctuating again.
Could that just be the cold air and moisture? I have not had a chance to get it out on the road yet (snow plow blocked me in from behind and the guy who came over to help is blocking me in on the side), but I plan on getting it out at some point tonight, maybe to run out and grab a fuel filter.
EDIT:
So I got it out of it's spot and put about 10 miles through it. Didn't notice the idle problem the entire time, so it must have been the fact it sat for a week in the wind, rain, and snow.
It's idling a little odd now - it drops down to about 650 RMP, then revs up to 750, then back to about 650. When I started the car after letting it run for 10-15 minutes, the idle eventually leveled out for a while, but then slowly started fluctuating again.
Could that just be the cold air and moisture? I have not had a chance to get it out on the road yet (snow plow blocked me in from behind and the guy who came over to help is blocking me in on the side), but I plan on getting it out at some point tonight, maybe to run out and grab a fuel filter.
EDIT:
So I got it out of it's spot and put about 10 miles through it. Didn't notice the idle problem the entire time, so it must have been the fact it sat for a week in the wind, rain, and snow.