Clutch bleeding procedure

[Baddog]

I checked the sticky and most google searches came up with WRX's.

I am using the factory setup still as far as the master and slave go. So I was wondering the proper procedure on how to bleed it. I have tried using the bleeder screw and pushing down on the clutch after cracking the bleeder open. Then closing the bleeder and lifting up on the clutch pedal. After 2 hours there is still air in the line and the pedal is mushy.

[mike-tracy]

I don't know the "official" way, but after I've done what you did, I push the clutch fork back against the slave cylinder. This shoots micro bubbles that were trapped in the slave cyl, back into the reservoir. Takes a couple times to get it where I like it, then of course you have to pump the pedal back up.

[Baddog]

So hold the clutch fork towards the back of the car while doing the bleed procedure?

Or find something to jam it?

[mike-tracy]

Nope, I push the clutch fork against the slave cyl, and let go. You'll hear fluid and perhaps air bubbles jetting towards the reservoir. Let the slave's rod extend and press the fork again. x Several times.

Another method I've used (bleeding these hydro trannys can be a real b#!$^), is unbolting the slave cyl, putting a c-clamp loosely on the slave, elevating the c-clamp + slave cyl with the bleeder facing up, and doing a normal bleed.

[Baddog]

So the bleeder screw must be open while pushing the fork back correct? Just wanna make aure im doing it right this time around.

[mike-tracy]

No, bleeder screw should be closed when pushing on the clutch fork. All air bubbles will be going back into the reservoir and dissipating there.

[Baddog]

Got it. Clutch slave is leaking. Time to replace with wrx

[Legacy777]

The clutch damper is what makes bleeding these hyd clutches a pain in the butt. You can remove it and just run a custom SS braided line from the clutch MC to the SC. That's what I did, and am very happy with the clutch feel.

[Baddog]

Can you just run a WRX clutch line on the Legacy SS stuff?

I replaced the leaking slave today and pedal still will not return or stiffen. I used a vacuum bleeder no luck

[Legacy777]

If the clutch line will bolt up to the master and slave, then yes. There are some differences in how the lines are routed and what type of connections they have (flared or banjo), so you'll need to check the length and connection type.

[Baddog]

I will do an SS line like some of you did. Was there a Write-up somewhere? I saw a parts list.

[Legacy777]

Scroll to the bottom of the transmission section for my swap parts list. It'll have what I used.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swa ... ansmission

[kimokalihi]

I could be wrong but I think the wrx line won't fit due to different banjo bolt sizes. You don't have to replace the line. Just bend the curvy hard line a little to get it to extend up to the master cylinder. That's what I did when I removed my clutch damper and it worked fine like that for 2 years and then I bought an ss gc clutch line. The banjo bolt that came with it was the wrong size so I had to reuse my stock bolt.

[CFK]

Ya, What a C(_)NT to bleed

I Bought 2 SS lines, got it all connected. Having trouble bleeding it so im gonna just remove that Damper as well