Clutch pedal doesn't return all the way

[robertpaige]

So I haven't really found that much info on this, my clutch is working fine, having no issues with my maser cylinder or anything but my clutch pedal just a couple days ago stopped returning to the top. I have to pull it back with my foot, sometimes it will plop back into place but mostly not.

I looked underneath and couldn't really see much, I saw the spring but it didn't look broken or anything. Can someone explain to me how exactly you adjust the pedal? Maybe it just came loose. Right now it rests right above the engagement point, which idk if that's bad?

[PhyrraM]

Here is the spring you need to look at (far left). It will 'cam over' and stay on the floor if there isn't enough back pressure from the clutch cylinder, but that is unlikely.

The hydraulic clutch on the turbo models doesn't have, nor need, any adjustment. The top and bottom of the pedal stroke can be adjusted by adjusting the switches you see in the picture. The lower switch sets the 'up' position.

[kimokalihi]

You need to bleed the clutch. Mine did that too when I first got my car together. Get some new brake fluid and some bleeder hose and a container. Fill the container with some fluid. I would suck out some of the old fluid in the reservoir and put that in the container. Put the end of the hose in and submerge it so no air will come back in. Buying a speed bleeder screw which has a one way check valve to replace the bleeder screw helps the one man operation a LOT. crack it open at the slave and pump the clutch and make sure you keep adding fluid so you don't suck in air. The speed bleeders are awesome and they make bleeding the brakes and clutch so much easier. Well worth the money.

[robertpaige]

Kimo I think you're right. The pedal is now going all the way to the floor basically and not engaging well.

I have never bled anything before... Could you give me a quick step by step? I can go buy that express bleeder valve thing

[robertpaige]

Okay. I bled the slave cylinder. I had someone hold the clutch pedal to the floor, I opened the bleed screw on the slave cylinder to let fluid out, and I tightened it when the fluid stopped coming out, let go of the pedal and it still was stuck on the floor. Tried to pump it with not much change. I did this about 4 times and there was no change.

Two things. The clutch damper has a bleed screw. What do I do with that?

Could my slave cylinder just be bad? Where do I find a new one?

[PhyrraM]

Yes, you can bleed the damper.

Usually, if the slave cylinder is bad, it will be leaking.

I wouldn't push the clutch to the floor when bleeding, as the return spring can 'cam' over and hold the pedal to the floor. I would use about 1/2 the stroke. Also, keep the fluid reservoir topped up as it can drop faster than expected.

Many folks also bypass the dampener to give a better clutch feel. IIRC, it's main purpose is to save transmissions from the shock of a clutch dump by slowing the return of the fluid.

[Someperson]

Hope you figure it out

[alexandermf]

Its def needing a system bleed... Happened in my old NA couple times, makes it easier with two ppl btw tk bleed just ask a friend to help takes 5-10 mins of some clutch pumping and bleeding the lines

[robertpaige]

I tried. What my question is do I need to open the bleeder on the damper? I'm just gonna leave everything as is right now I'm not gonna remove it. I need to get y car back together due to work at 330am tomorrow. And if I can't figure it out today I'm screwed.

What would indicate a bad slave cylinder?

[Someperson]

Leaks

[robertpaige]

How can I tell weather it's the slave or master thats bad? I need some serious help today I need to get it back to where I can at least shift..

[Someperson]

have your friend hold the pedal and check for leaks

[robertpaige]

Okay. The pedal is on the floor basically. Maybe a half in of play..

[Legacy777]

You need to bleed the damper first and then the slave cylinder. The damper & slave combo can be a real pain to bleed.

If it used to work and now it doesn't, the master may be bad.

[robertpaige]

Thanks Josh, that's what I wanted to know. Do I open the damper bleed and close it, then move on to the slave bleed while the pedal is still in? Or do I open the damper bleed and close it, release the pedal, push in again and bleed the slave?

We bled it just with the slave, got enough pressure in there so I can at least drive it, still really bad though. I went out to my car one morning after a day of not driving and the clutch pedal got stuck halfway. So maybe the slave is bad, I had one ordered through O'Reillys, $40. I'll grab it and put it in. Also Kimo suggested I get rid of the damper, so I may do that.

[Legacy777]

Yeah, I don't have the damper either.

To bleed the clutch, push the clutch pedal in, open the bleeder on the damper. Once the fluid/air comes out, close the bleeder screw on the damper, have the person in the car pull the clutch pedal all the way up. Repeat this process until you no longer have air coming out of the bleeder. Then move onto the slave cylinder and repeat the process. if one day this just happened, I'd say either the master or slave may be bad.

[robertpaige]

Okay. Well overnight it seemed to get better in the morning. Still not all the way good but definitely driveable.